New build Central Kentucky

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Ohanaman

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Jun 11, 2014
15
elizabethtown, ky
Good morning everyone! I have been on an off trolling in here for years. I am finally taking the dive and installing an unground pool (partly DIY which I will explain below) and I have a few questions. Here is my specs:
  1. 18x36 rectangle Inground Vinyl Liner pool (8ft step on left Side of shallow end if you are standing on shallow side)
  2. Compsite walls
  3. SuperFLO vs 1 1/2 HP 110v/220v
  4. Sand Dollar SD80 top mount filter
  5. iCHLOR 30 SWG with power center bundle
  6. 2 TREO LED lights with transformer
Ok so I have the excavation and concrete work subbed out. I pulled the building and electrical permits myself. My main questions are the electrical and plumbing.

For the electrical, I will have to run a line down to my pool area and put in a sub panel. Well, I'm not quite sure how much power I will need here are my following items I think I will need, power wise:

  1. pool pump
  2. chlorination system (SWG)
  3. Led lighting
  4. some power outlets(maybe 4) for the gazebo area and possibly a hot tub down the road.
  5. GFCI outlet for a cleaner (possibly down the road)?
  6. Will I need an intermec timer with the SuperFLO VS pump?
  7. Any wiring diagrams to include the bonding would be extremely helpful
For the plumbing:

  1. Not sure of the layout yet I think there are 2 returns, main drains and 1 skimmer.
  2. I listed that I have a SuperFLO VS pump, iCHLOR 30 SWG and sand filter....there will be no heater installed!
  3. Any diagrams or help to make sure I lay it out correctly would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you everyone for your assistance!!!

Chris
 
1, 2, 3, 5 can be run on 30 amp service. Only high amp draw is the pump.

You going to wire the subpanel for 4 wire 120V/240V?

The 4 outlets for the gazebo depends what you plan to plug in there.

The hot tub can be 40-50 amps.

If you can run 100 amps to the subpanel you can cover everything you listed.

@JamesW may have some thoughts.

4A4B9418-511F-4597-8EBF-C5F51501E4F0.jpeg

4A4B9418-511F-4597-8EBF-C5F51501E4F0.jpeg

Basic Poool Plumbing Diagram
 
I had planned on a 100 amp sub panel so I'm glad you confirmed that! The outlets in the gazebo will be for led lights, radio's crockpots and stuff like that. What would be your recommendation on the voltage? Would you go 120V or 240V? What would be your reasoning behind your choice and how much to you think the cost difference would be.

For the plumbing are those 1.5" or 2" and I have read a couple posts where they have that flow meter it think it was FloVis and are those just 2 way diverters on the diagram?

Thank you so much for all your insight as I have never done this before......I will try and post a before pic ( well I have already moved the kids play house, trampoline and my fence) today!! Thanks again.
 
Definitely wire a subpanel like that for 120V/240V. You have lots more choices for pumps with 240V. And a spa will require 240V.

Pools run fine on 1.5 or 2 inch plumbing. You might as well run 2”. Flowvis is a gadget that you don't need.

Shutoff valves can be helpful to have. Use Jandy Neverlube valves.
 
Last edited:
Ohanaman said:
Pentair SuperFlo Vs model 342001
Click to expand...

That gets continuous power and has its own control panel.

You will need a timer for primary power control to the SWG unless you run the pump 24/7.
 
Chris, it sounds like your pool is going to be very similar to mine. I linked to it. A couple comments

1. Think about 3 lights. I have three Smith TREO lights, and they are great when it is very dark out. I am not sure if two lights will be enough, and it is way easier to add a third now than it will be down the road.

2. Pentair Easytouch 4 or something similar. This has timers built in, and also acts as a sub-panel. If you get the one with the Pentair IC40 SWG, then you are even better off. Compare the cost of the Easytouch 4 with SWG (one panel to hang) versus a sub panel, timer, and the iChor 30 w/control center (3 panels to hang)...and it likely won't be much more, and the functionality is just wonderful. You can install a GFCI outlet right on the side of the Easytouch.

DIY (mostly) inground vinyl 16x36

So here we go. I found a local pool guy that works with his son and a couple other guys, and he was quite willing to let me DIY most of it, while helping me order things and basically make sure I don't mess anything up. The bigger guys wanted to do turn-key, and I am a DIY'er at heart. 16'x36'...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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You want more than 2 returns 4 is the minimum for that size pool. How deep is the pool planned for? If not a diving pool you can delete the main drains. Your electric needs to be 240v you cant wire a subpanel without it. If you are definitely doing a hottub you need a 100amp panel feed. If not 60 is fine. Get the pool dug and the collar poured and then worry about the plumbing. Make a big enough pad and have forms ready for when concrete comes for the collar. 4x6 or 7 is good for a no heater pad. When your almost ready for plumbing post what you have for ins and outs to pool and I'll tell you how to plumb it and give you a list of what to get valve and pipe wise
 
Awesome, thanks for the advice. I have 4 returns. I also am running 240V to a 100amp sub panel. I hope to get that run this weekend so it is ready to go. I have to run it from my garage which is on the other side of the house. It has been raining for over a week so it looks like it will be at least two weeks before I can get the hole dug. This is due to the forecast of rain all week and next week and then vacation. I will keep the forum updated! Thanks again!
 
Remember you can only have 360 degrees of bend in your conduit total so four 90 degree sweeps. If you need more you need pull boxes above ground that basically have a plate with screw to access the side. If you are only doing the 100 amp feed I would use inch and a half conduit will make an easy pull and leave room for future in case. You are gonna need 2awg for the hots and nuetral and you can downsize to 4 for the ground to save a buck. Copper 2-2-2-4 SER is what it's actually called you could use aluminum in that gauge as well. You want to be 18" below finished grade or deeper this is assuming you are under NEC jurisdiction.
 
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