New and Confused

[Delcamp]

Hi friends,

I’m new here. We recently built a pool and I’m determined to take care of it myself. BUT, I’m finding it a bit overwhelming. So many sources say TFP is a great resource but not realistic for Arizona pool climate. The constant sun, extreme temperatures and hard water don’t behave like the rest of the country, but TFP logic just makes sense.

To make a long story short, we have had a real struggle with our pool builder which has resulted in 3 drains and complete replacement of the pool interior, a filter replacement and several other things. Unfortunately, I haven’t been in control of many elements and our pool has been subjected to several acid baths, several days at a time of the pump being off and in the process of all those things, we started to develop what I’m certain is mustard algae along the shaded wall and on the stairs and bench. I wish I would’ve taken a picture when it was at its worst, but it started around the light and the drain on the side wall. The builder said it was just dirt. But I’m certain it’s not.

I I have read the ABC’s, and most everything in the pool school section, but still have questions. And I keep getting the answer from locals about our climate and chemistry being different. I just have so many questions about our particular pool and climate that I figured it was time to post and ask! ?

For some background—We have been using dichlor and trichlor tabs and our pool will not hold chlorine. Prior to the 1st drain, our CYA was over 350 in just 7 months because I was dumping TONS of stabilizer in with the chlorine unknowingly.

This time around our pool has been filled almost 6 months and CYA is at 80. I’ve been doing my best attempt at the TFP way. I bought the Pool Math app, my own Taylor test kit and have been using 10% liquid chlorine and tabs, a few times I have used the dichlor (because I have a ton of it and I was trying to get chlorine to hold.) I thought that was good, but but what I’ve been reading makes me think it is already getting little high?

So, onto the mustard algae problem... our water is beautiful! Crystal clear sparkling blue—nothing cloudy or questionable except the mustard algae that keeps appearing around the light, stairs, bench in that one shaded wall!

We are also surrounded by Palo Verde trees that dumping tons and tons of yellow flowers. We empty the skimmer basket and skim the pool twice a day. Those trees are the bane of my existence! Several articles mentioned we may be looking at pollen instead of mustard algae, but everything about it says it’s mustard algae— The way approves the location is it showing up in, the inability to fight it even when the trees stop shedding...

Leslie suggested I try and shock it with 72% Cal hypo. I dumped 3 pounds in our 12,000 gallon pool and the FC was at zero by morning!

I decided to try SLAMing it. The only area we were not passing was the overnight chlorine loss. Which within 48 hours we passed! I have seen several of the algae articles mention after SLAMming it go to the mustard algae levels, but I cannot find those posted anywhere

So what do I do to end my battle with this mustard algae? We just clean the cartridges last weekend before and after the SLAM. Our chemistry seems perfect. See below. What’s next?

Oh and one more detail— our phosphates are at 300 and someone suggested it could be a nitrates issue that the chlorine is metabolizing so fast. We tested the water for nitrates and it’s at 30. Leslie‘s pool had no insight at all on the nitrates – even if that was a good or bad number. What are your thoughts on that?
======================
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 10.0 (39 minutes ago)
CC: 0.0 (39 minutes ago)
pH: 7.7 (39 minutes ago)
TA: 90 (39 minutes ago)
CH: 300 (39 minutes ago)
CYA: 80 (39 minutes ago)
TEMPERATURE: 84° (39 minutes ago)
CSI: 0.04 (39 minutes ago)
=============


Also attaching a picture of the tiny new algae spot this morning and those yellow flowers that will be the death of me. Could they be the source of this problem?


One last question— I’m following the CYA to FC ratio, but my question is will FC of 10 cause swimsuits to fade or be dangerous for a little swimmers? Having a hard time determining what to make of all of that.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions you can offer. I know this was a big jumble of random stuff I’m determined to figure this out though with your help!

Maggie In Queen Creek, AZ

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
I am sorry you have been on the pool store hamster wheel! The statement that TFP would not work in Arizona is a surprise to us from this area! The fact that a pool store even sold you Cal Hypo in an area with very high calcium water is preposterous.
It is great you have a quality test kit. Thank you for the test results.
To follow the SLAM Process you really need a lower CYA. It would be best to get it to 40 or 50 ppm. That means a water exchange. Are you up for that?
Your FC of 10ppm with a CYA of 80 is not high at all. See FC/CYA Levels. It is very safe to swim in water up to SLAM level. That is 31 ppm with 80 ppm CYA.
Phosphates do not matter. You eradicate the algae, not their food.
So with all that, if you are all in, let us know. We can work with you to solve this. But it will take time, and work.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

 

[Delcamp]

Yes yes! I’m all in! I am intimidated about exchanging water because I have no idea how to do it. ? but I’m game to learn! Will I find directions on the forum? Where do you suggest I start?

Its funny you mentioned the cal hypo. I asked the question about the cal hypo and high calcium because I had already learned that on the forums. He told me the calcium would actually strengthen the plaster—like the way fluoride helps your teeth. ? Riiight....? Are you in the valley? Where do you buy your liquid chlorine? Do you use tabs at all?

I wish there was a way to have a TFP person come to my house to check my setup and make sure what I think I’m doing right I’m ACTUALLY doing right. We don’t trust our builder for ANYTHING. I’m not even convinced the pressure gauge on our filter has ever worked. The pool stores offer in home “pool school”, but that won’t help me since I’m not “drinking their kool aid”

Are the TFP pool pros that make house calls/teaching?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Maggie,

We have a ton of members from AZ, so I suspect it will come as quite a shock to them, that the TFP process does not work in Arizona..

Sounds to me like you are being fed a load of pool store bull...

Stick around and we can get you pointed in the right direction..

The key to our entire process is to kill all the algae by performing a SLAM... Using this process.. SLAM Process and this chart... FC/CYA Levels

Then, once the algae is dead, maintaining your FC at the target level for your CYA, so that the algae never comes back..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

I live in Laughlin, NV. There are a number of members from the Phoenix area. They can respond on where they get chlorine, etc.

You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.

 

[Pamofferman]

I'm in North Phoenix and have had nothing but success with TFP since buying our home with a pool (making me a first-time pool owner) in June 2018. I buy my 10% 'Pool Essentials' liquid chlorine at Wal-Mart. They often sell it in a 2 pack for $6.44. If they don't have that in stock, single jugs run about $3.64. I would recommend watching the date on the single jugs - I bought some old stuff recently by accident and really noticed a difference.

 

[Delcamp]

It appears to have WORKED!! I did a water exchange (and I learned a lot of cool things about our pool equipment and maintaining it in the process) The CYA down to 50. Started the SLAM again. Pool is perfect and so far no algae! ??

My brother is just beginning the process of building a pool so he’s been watching my experiences closely. He made the comment when I was doing the pool store game that’s pools of been around for so long there has to be a tried and true way that works every time. They’re just shouldn’t have to be guesswork! He is so right!! That tried and true way is obviously the trouble free pool way!!

 

[Delcamp]

A few more random questions. I haven’t had much luck searching the forums or the book.

1. I know every pool is different, but is there some sort of rule of thumb for a rough average of chlorine my pool may consume in a week?

Signature should show pool stats. 12,000 gal. We have teenage boys and friends (who don’t shower before hopping in after football practice. ?) and there people are in the pool every day, so I’d say it has a pretty moderate-heavy bather load. I am committed to TFP, but I’m just trying to get a feel for how much chlorine I will be buying and how often. Am I looking at 1 gal day, every few days, a week? What would you guesstimate?

2. Is it normal to hear a hissing/audible sound in or around the pool when the in floor cleaning/pump is running?

It’s for sure not coming from the pump, it’s definitely coming from the pool or pipes around the pool. It’s so ambiguous and hard to describe, I’m hoping that someone will have an idea what I’m trying to describe. ??

 

[mknauss]

1. Most pools consume 2-4 ppm FC per day. Heavy bather loads may reach 5ppm. Use Poolmath to see how much liquid chlorine that is in your pool.

2. Hissing-- hmm. Is your bubbler leaking out a little water all the time? Not sure ..............