Need to make a decision on lights, are globrites a bad idea?

Since I originally posted this I still have not made a decision:rolleyes:. I think I am going to just suck it up and argue with the builder that I want the microbrites because as several have mentioned here at least its an easy fix in the future. But I have a question. My Florida pool will not have a screen and when I was reading about globrites on Pentairs website it says you can't dim them, but can't dim microbrites. Is that true? I am not sure what the purpose of diming but saw someone say in the pentair website review it can help with mosquitos. I think I also read some colors are better at not attracting mosquitos. Does anyone know about this? My pool will not have a screen so not sure if that is something I should take into consideration. @JayRi @usfbull Maybe you have an unscreened pool in Florida and know?
 
Here's a read that may or may not help.


when I was reading about globrites on Pentairs website it says you can't dim them, but can't dim microbrites. Is that true?

Was one of those supposed to be "can dim?"

Because of the physics of light, colors penetrate water differently. Blue light penetrates best, green light is second, yellow light is third, followed by orange light and red light. Red will light up your pool the least. I can't say which color will attract mosquitos more or less.

Another way to achieve less light, other than dimming, is to home-run wire each fixture back to the switches that will control your lights so that you can control each independently. Turn them all on nice and bright when you need to keep an eye on the kids, or turn just one on when you want some subtle light for "adult swim time" or a unobtrusive ambient light when you're just sitting around the pool. Whether this helps with the bugs or not, I'd still recommend it, as it allows you more control over your lighting environment.
 
@Dirk Thank you so much! Yes, I meant can dim:). I have to ask the pool builder if I can control each light separately. No more budget left. I will have pentair easy touch so not sure if that means I can control each light separately.
 
That was Marty (@mknauss), though I'm sure he would appreciate the compliment! ;)

To run the pool lights individually with an ET would require the use of one of the ET relays per light (or groups of lights). You may or may not have enough to spare. You'd still need to have trenches open to run the necessary wiring to separate the lights. By home-running them back to the pad, you can still wire them all together, or some of them or none of them. Leaves you all the options.

I removed my pool light from my ET and run it with my Home Automation system. That allows me to use an app, any of my many HA controllers plus wall switches (several) and remote control buttons. Voice control, too. There's no reason the pool lights have to be controlled by the pool's controller. Which would then free up all those ET relays. Plus, as Marty points out, I'm not sure either if the ET can do dimming. An HA solution certainly could. Some types of pool lights work together, to give you coordinated light shows. I've never explored that, as I have only one light. So that's something else to consider, if you want that.

More importantly, any or all of those options are available if you wire each light separately to the pad. You lose some if they are all wired together underground or out in junction boxes in the yard somewhere.
 
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Oh, if the wiring is done, and all the lights' wires are joined together in a J-Box near the pool, and then just one set of wires runs from there to the pad, it's possible you could split them up, even after the deck is down and the trenches are all buried. For multiple home runs, you only need one ground (green wire), one common (white wire), and then one wire for each light. So say you have three lights tied together in a J-box in the yard, and three wires (green, white and black) run from that j-box to the ET. You only have to pull two extra wires through that last conduit to separate the lights from each other. Depending on the size of the conduit the PB used, it should be relatively easy to pull two more wires through it. It's something you can do yourself, if you're a DIYer.

So even if he's done with the wiring, and you're done with your budget, this is likely something you can address at some future point in time.
 
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@Dirk they have not done the wiring yet, so will ask them to wire lights separately, hopefully for no up charge.

Actually the other concern I have is that we are putting the pool on the side of our house because we have a 20ft drainage easement In back. We have 10.5 feet left in back that as part of the pool project they will put a concrete patio and screen that patio in. My concern is they will put all the pipes and electrical wires under the concrete they will pour. So if I even have to dig up pipes or wires I will need to break my concrete patio to access. I asked them to let me know if they can put pipes and electrical in the drainage easemen, but they have not responded yet. I am not quite sure what the rules are, the county would not let us put a pool in the easement, but I assume pipes for pool and electrical would be fine, would not interfere with drainage. Do you think I insist on them not putting under the concrete patio? Or really not a big deal because you fish things through? Not quite sure how all this works.
 

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If you wish to control each light separately, each will need its own transformer. There will be a cost to that.
 
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That is my bad. I neglected to ask if these were low voltage. That changes things. There is likely a work-around for the transformer issue, but it can be complicated.

Regarding how the pipes will run, I think I can answer it this way, with the same advice I give others. Just run a few empty PVC pipes and a few empty electrical conduits. You can later use them for extra circuits, speaker wire, ethernet cable, video cable, whatever. PVC pipes can be used to add a hose bib, or a sprinkler system or drip irrigation. If you have trouble with an existing pipe, you'll have a replacement pipe already in place.

Let me know if that doesn't answer your question...
 
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@Dirk One more question. I am going to do the microbrites because of the proprietary niche issue with globrites. If I find that the lights are not strong enough is it simple to switch out the lights to stronger lights? Just unscrew and screw new one on? And will they still work with East Touch automation? I will have one light on wall of sunshelf and 2 in pool. Pool is 14x 32, sunshelf is 11 wide and not sure if that one light will reach the rest of the pool either. What do you think?
 

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I have 3 microbrites in my 40'x10' pool and 1 microbrite in my shelf. Here is a pic from the one time I turned them on so far. I think I have enough light, you can see my lane tiles on the bottom no problem (easier in person than the photo to see) even with the pump/returns going!


IMG_5060.jpg
 
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Sorry, I can't answer most of those questions. I chimed in regarding the control of the lights, not on the lights themselves (obviously, I didn't even recognize they were low voltage). A quick look on Pentair's site doesn't show any model choices for microbrites other than color and the length of the cord. Nothing about lumens. So to go brighter, you'd have to go with another brand, which then may or may not be compatible with the color syncing Pentair lights can do with each other.

So step one would be to find out, maybe from Pentair tech support, what the lumen output of the microbrites is. Then shop around to see if there are any other brands available that have a higher output (that fit in the same fitting). Then check if that brand is compatible with Pentair's color syncing, if you're considering something other than a white light.

The only other way I can think to assure you have enough light is to add one or two more now, of the color-changing type, and then reduce the light if that many is too much. One way to reduce is the individual control I suggested earlier (turn on one, or two or three, as needed), or to use color: white for when you need it bright, blue or green for a less obnoxious light level, or red when you want it dim. Or a combination of the two (number of lights on, and which color). I was projecting when I suggested the home-run wiring earlier, because that is the level of control I would want: from barely there to aircraft-landing-lights bright, and everywhere in between.

I can sympathize with your dilemma, because you have no idea at this point how many lights it's going to take to light your pool the way you want, and if you don't guess right, there's limited ways to change things out later. Going big and reducing later is all I can suggest, since adding more later won't be an option.

Here are some of my "standard warnings," some of which you already know:

- No light niches (or fixtures) that won't accept other styles, colors, sizes, lumens and/or brands of other lights, forever if possible, or for at least the foreseeable future. Nothing proprietary, as you mentioned. Seems like the 1.5" standard fittings the microbrites fit satisfies that issue.

- Home run each light back to the controller. You can always tie them together as one, if that's all you need. Or you can separate them, sooner or later, to allow more control. Home-running leaves all the options open, even if you don't think you need them.

- Don't point any lights at your house. Don't point any lights towards where you will most likely sit around the pool at night. When possible, light fixtures should not be within your line of sight from where you will most view the pool.

Your shelf light might not meet that last criteria. Another reason to be able to turn that one off individually. Light it up for night time swimming, but turn it off when you just want to light the pool while sitting outside. Sorry to keep harping on that, but I know how annoying my light is, pointed straight at the house and where I like to sit at night. I wish I had two, at each end of the pool, on two switches. Then I could control amount and direction of light.

If individual control of the shelf light is not in the cards, you might consider moving it to the side. It won't light the shelf as evenly from there, but I think that isn't worse than having it pointed at the house. If the large area to the left of your pool is the primary sitting area, I would consider moving all the lights to that side of the pool, shining away from it, rather than pointing them to that side.
 
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@Dirk Thank you for your detailed answer and @TexasRain for the picture. It seems like I make one decision and then have to figure out something else out. I don't want to be stuck with that proprietary niche,
I will call Pentair and see what they say about lumins and maybe ask here who has 2 in pool. You bring good points about the pool light layout. I guess I am lucky the pool is being built on the side of our house, side of house is on right of diagram. So the lights will face away from my house. The sunshelf light will be parallel to my house. That area to the side will be for loungers. We are enclosing o<r lanai in back and adding a screened patio to that area so we would likely use that in evening. Well you have given me lots of great advice, thank you!
 
Ah, I misread the "house door." I thought that was coming off the rectangle at the bottom of the drawing. I see where the house is now. Yah, the lights look good for viewing the pool from the house. Just a matter of how the lights will work from where you sit outside. If I had to choose between the lights pointing at the house windows or pointing at where I sit outside, that'd be a tough choice (if that is your dilemma). I guess it comes down to which you will be doing more often: sitting out there, or admiring your pool at night from inside...
 
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