Here is a diagram of how I plan to lay the plumbing out.
Any suggestions, changes or advice would be appreciated.
Any suggestions, changes or advice would be appreciated.
Need Plumbing advice since my pool builder decided to disappear.
- Thread starter kalgwl
- Start date
Meadow
0
You do not need the check valve after the heater.
You do need a check valve on the spa return if the spa water level will be higher than the pool water level.
A make up valve would basically go between where you have the flow switch and into a Tee where you have the spa return. So when in pool mode, you could have some flow bypass the return 3-way.
You do need a check valve on the spa return if the spa water level will be higher than the pool water level.
A make up valve would basically go between where you have the flow switch and into a Tee where you have the spa return. So when in pool mode, you could have some flow bypass the return 3-way.
I like to see the 3-way valves oriented so that the middle port is the common port. Like you did for the suction and return 3-ways as it gives better control. As such, you might consider reorienting the one for the skimmers. Will not be quite as clean looking, but might provide better control.
Meadow
0
I read that when the pump is not running, chlorine gas could go back into the heater causing damage. (Reason for check valve at heater)
The SWG should never be running when the pump is not running.
The check valve recommendation is a holdover for the tablet chlorinators which would have locally very acidic and high FC water that could back up into the heater when the pump is off. There are not the same concerns with SWGs. The water in them is not acidic and it is not a very high FC level.
The check valve recommendation is a holdover for the tablet chlorinators which would have locally very acidic and high FC water that could back up into the heater when the pump is off. There are not the same concerns with SWGs. The water in them is not acidic and it is not a very high FC level.
I have just discovered that my spa has way more connections than I anticipated.
It has the following connections: *To recirculating pump
*Deep heat returns
*To Jets
*To therapy pump
*From Blower (I know what this one does)
Should I scrap my original diagram & do I need another pump?
It has the following connections: *To recirculating pump
*Deep heat returns
*To Jets
*To therapy pump
*From Blower (I know what this one does)
Should I scrap my original diagram & do I need another pump?
Sounds like it is designed to use 2 pumps (Recirc pump & deep heat returns ... this would be the one in your current drawings) and (therapy pump & jets ... this would only run the jets). Although you might be able to creatively combine them.
I’m going to go against Jason here. Install the check valve as you have pictured downstream of your heater, upstream of your SWCG. It’s needed.
It isnt really needed, but it’s needed.
It isnt really needed, but it’s needed.
Jason, you, I, and anyone who understands the workings of a saltwater chlorine generator understand that it’s not necessary with this type of system...... HOWEVER, go read the install instructions on your equipment, where it says to install a check valve after your equipment, before your chlorinator.
”Chlorinator” is a broad term and yes, a SWCG meets the definition of chlorinator. A device that introduces chlorine. We know that it doesn’t pose the same acidity issues as a puck feeder, etc, but if it were me doing the install, I’d rather spend <$50 on a check valve than to potentially have to fight to receive warranty work on several thousand dollars worth of pool equipment because of a lack of a check valve before the “chlorinator”.
YMMV
”Chlorinator” is a broad term and yes, a SWCG meets the definition of chlorinator. A device that introduces chlorine. We know that it doesn’t pose the same acidity issues as a puck feeder, etc, but if it were me doing the install, I’d rather spend <$50 on a check valve than to potentially have to fight to receive warranty work on several thousand dollars worth of pool equipment because of a lack of a check valve before the “chlorinator”.
YMMV
Simple solution which will save you money is to just do a self-install so you don't have a warranty 
- May 3, 2014
- 58,580
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Not a plumbing expert, but since you only want the heater for the spa, would you consider splitting your pool and spa return before your heater? You would need a bypass line to keep some water going to the spa in pool mode.
Just a thought -
Just a thought -
I like the idea but have wondered if I should route all water through the heater for the very few freezing days we get in Alabama. Don't know if I will ever "close" the pool when winter comes but would like to continue to use spa all season.
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Simple solution which will save you money is to just do a self-install so you don't have a warranty
Since the pool builder has stopped showing up I believe a self install is my only option....
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So I need a separate pump dedicated to the jets only?
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Thanks for the info. It's a cheap part considering the damage it could prevent to the heater.
Thanks
If it makes you happy, add the check valve after the heater. It will add headloss and lower your flowrates. Be sure to use the flapper style from Jandy/Pentair/Hayward as they are rebuildable ... or save the ~$40 
Yes, that spa appears to be setup to use a seperate pump for the jets.
Yes, that spa appears to be setup to use a seperate pump for the jets.