Need new motor. Variable speed with salt chlorinators?

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Thanks guys. I am now leaning toward that B2983 two speed motor. It does appear to have a lower low speed current draw than a lot of other two speed motors. I figure 1.6amp X 220v is 352 watts. Way better than 2200 watts!

Interestingly that motor does not come up on inyo's motor page or via search of two speed motors, only as a replacement part for a specific pump or by specifically searching for that motor number.

Technikal said:
I picked up the switch and the wire at Home Depot for ~ $7.
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What kind of a switch is needed? Just a three pole switch to toggle a single input between two outputs?
 
You need either a SPDT or DPDT switch (single pole dual throw / dual pole dual throw).

It should be one that is on-off-on.

Single pole will have 3 contacts
Dual pole will have 6 contacts
 
CJadamec said:
You need either a SPDT or DPDT switch (single pole dual throw / dual pole dual throw). It should be one that is on-off-on.
Click to expand...

Thanks.



Nothing is ever easy. That motor is a 56Y frame. I look at my existing starite pump and stand, for a 48Y, and while there is a tiny little rubber piece in there, I don't see how removing that is going to accommodate the larger frame motor. Removing that, I see it giving me 1/8" more room and then the motor is sitting on hard plastic? I read of people having to hack saw their stands.


I also can't find any existing pump with that motor. I was going to spend $65 anyways to rebuild the current pump, so I'm not against getting a whole new pump, but every other 1.5hp two speed pump I can find, the motors are in the 3amp low speed range and then I'm approaching prices where I might as well just get a variable speed. I also don't see any way to just buy a pump without a motor. I really don't want to deal with hacking up a stand.
 
This is the switch I used:

Gardner Bender 20 Amp Single-Pole Toggle Switch (1-Pack)-GSW-13 - The Home Depot

Wiring is easy. You have 2 load lines coming from the timer. One goes directly to the pump, one goes to the switch. From the switch, two lines go to the motor (you'll reuse one of your existing lines and add one new one). One of these lines connect to the 'Low' connector on the motor, the other to the "hi". Flipping the switch just moves the load between the two wires. Note that 'Off' on this switch isn't really off. You'll still have load going to the motor on the wire that's not run through the switch - so don't use this switch to turn off the motor to work on it.

This is how I mounted the switch in the Intermatic housing:

20180206_173216.jpg


On the 56y vs 48y, I'd give Inyo a call and they should be able to tell you what you'd need to mount it. On my pump, the motor rests on a solid plastic motor support without issue, but I was replacing an existing 56y motor.
 
Follow up. I ended up following Technikal's advice and purchased the 1HP B2982 and raw switch. I wish my timer housing was as roomy as his! Installed the motor last weekend and just hooked up low and it works awesome and very quiet. It quickly primed and shortly after my no flow light turned off and everything was great! Pressure gauge read 0 but water was definitely moving. I won't call it silent, I can hear it standing right next to it, or even 20' away, but I ever so barely can hear it inside the bedroom next to it. Way quieter than before. The skimmer works great, dare I say, maybe even better? The pool had 2 weeks of stuff floating on the top and after 8 hrs on low it had cleaned up nicely.

So this weekend I redid the wiring to install the switch. Pulled a new wire through the conduit, drilled a hole in the side of the timer housing, installed the switch (and a rubber boot cover) and wired it all up. Pump turns on great again, low works great. But ...... when I flip the switch to high, I still have low. Doesn't matter what position the switch is in (except the middle), I only have low speed. It does not even attempt to go to high and then drop down.

All I can think of is high is defective or I've wired something wrong. The motor has an A, L1,and L2 terminal. I wired the constant hot (black) to A. I wired the switched LowSpeed wire to L1 and the switched HighSpeed wire to L2. The switch is toggling between L1 and L2.

Am I doing something wrong?

- - - Updated - - -

LOL, never fails. Everytime I post, shortly afterwards I figure out my problem. I couldn't find a wiring diagram for my motor, so I just now looked up the 1.5hp motor. It had one. A=Low Speed, L1=High speed, L2=HOT

So I was running it for a week on A and L1, and that just gave me low I guess?
 
Awesome - glad to hear it worked out. I agree about skimming working as well or better on low. I'm not sure of the dynamics on that, but I have similar results and feel like I'm pulling more stuff out of the skimmers running on low than I did when I was always running on full speed.
 

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bakrbj said:
awesome thread! I'm going through similar debates with myself right now... Next project - pool equipment pad and replumb

how's it all working still? anything you'd do differently? and what SWG do you use? based on the rest of the post, I'm going to assume that you did that much diligence in selecting it too
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At this point so far, nothing I would do differently. Everything is working great.

My SWG is an old hayward aquarite. I got it over 10 years ago.
 
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