Need help with Chlorine

Jump to latest Follow Reply
S

stricklerjosh

0
Jul 23, 2017
18
High Point/NC
Hi guys,
I have tried to do some research and look around but not really sure what to do. Also not sure how to add to my signature but here is my pool information:
35' fiberglass pool 12,400 gallons
Jandy True Clear Salt Generator
Jandy Pump

I have been having an issue all summer long of not having Chlorine in my pool. The only time I can show that I have Chlorine is after I manually add shock. Now I did not know about Conditioner/stabilizer until last week so last thursday I just added about 4lbs of the granular conditioner. My CYA is still only 45ppm so leslies says I need to add some more. I also just added 2 lbs of the Fresh and clear from Leslies to try and get the FC up. Just wondering if there are any thoughts as to what I am not doing right.

I should only have to keep my Salt Generator at 40-50% but sometimes I was having to bump it to 60-70% to keep up. Do you think this is all related to the CYA? If so is there a certain kind that is better than others? I just went to Home depot and bought some of the Granular type.

Thanks in Advance
 
How does your water look? Is it crystal with no haziness at all? No green or puffs of stuff on the floor? If there is none of that and you are confident the water is clear & algae free, go ahead and increase the CYA to 70. If you aren't sure or have doubt, consider doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to help rule-out algae. Of course if there is green, cloudiness, or you fail the OCLT, then you know you need to do a SLAM Process using regular bleach only. Stay away from those pool store products as they'll hurt the water and pocketbook.

You didn't mention it, but how are you testing your water? I hope it's with your own TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit? If not, I would stop and get one ASAP (link below). Don't rely on the pool store's CYA test. They are often incorrect. We certainly don't want you to go too high with stabilizer.

Also checkout:
Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
 
I use the aquacheck 7 strip test. I am going to try and raise my CYA to 70 or so and see if that helps. If not I will look into the other test you mentioned. I also contacted my pool installer and he said my CYA is very low and once I get it up if it's still not making chlorine he would come take a look. I have never done a slam with liquid chlorine. I have only used the bagged shock and used my salt generator. What should I use for the slam and how much and when? Sorry just new to all this.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and pool is crsytal clear. Has been all summer long.
 
If you have to run your SWG at 60%-70% then do it. What is your pump and SWG runtime?

We here think Leslies rarely gives good advice.
 
stricklerjosh said:
It run about 2 hours early in the AM and then about 6 hours from 12pm-6pm.
Click to expand...

8 hour SWG runtime at less then 50% means you are using less then 17% of your SWG chlorine generating capability. Up your % or your runtime. You can generate lots more CL that your pool needs.

You can find a SWG runtime calculator here --> SWG Run Time Calculator
 
You said you had to bump it up to 60% - 70% to keep up. That almost doubled it if you went from 40% to 70%. You can up your run time or your % output or some combination of both to double what you are doing today.

I say start high with run time and % output and see when you are generating excess CL and then you can reduce it in increments and find what works for your pool.

Let's do the math. You have a 13K pool or about 1/3 (33%) of what the manufacturer says. Yet you are running the cell for 17% of it's capacity. So that says, at a minimum, you need to run the cell for 35% to 40% of it's capacity. That could be 10 hours at 100% or 16 hours at around 60%.

And cell generating capability is not that precise. Some generate more and some less. So you need to do some trial and error and see what works for your pool.
 
You need to get a proper test kit. Order a Taylor K2006c or the TF-100. I would also order the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit. (Salt strips are ok but the drop test is better). In the future (2-3 years) if you start getting a low salt issue it could be a sign the cell is failing and you don’t want to blindly add salt.

Also read through pool school.

Also evey time you use powers or pucks you add other extra stuff to your pool that you don’t necessarily need.

BTW liquid chlorine (or regular bleach not splashless, no additives, no fragrances) is cheaper ppm wise vs other forms.

Allen already mentioned it but you can use the swg calculator to figure out % and pump runtime.
 
Gotcha. I had only been running it at that as that's what my pool installer set it on. After I get my CYA up to propper levels I will try your suggestions. I assumed running it at a higher percentage longer times would reduce the life of the cell. Which I still assume it will do, but if I'm doing more damage than good then I need to bump them up. Not sure where to get all the info for the swg calculator.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
stricklerjosh said:
After I get my CYA up to propper levels I will try your suggestions.
Click to expand...

No reason to wait to get your CYA up first. Increase your SWG output now. The CYA will protect the FC and once you get the CYA up then maybe you can decrease the SWG a bit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply