Need Help - Redo Pad Plumbing

Plettschner

Gold Supporter
Jun 4, 2019
271
Connecticut
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Pictured is my current pump and filter plumbing as it came with the house. The existing heater, a Hayward H250 was "hard bypassed" due to leaking exchanger, as best I can tell by all the corrosion inside of it. Finally replacing the heater with a Sta-Rite SR400 and now seems like as good a time as any to level the pads and clean up the plumbing.

The inlet of the pump where the three way valve is faces the pool. I'm not really sure why someone decided to plumb the heater with the connections on the far side (the loop coming out of ground was heater connection). All existing pipe is 1-1/2". No spa (currently), no water features, just a 17K gallon IG pool with vinyl liner, single-speed pump, and a sand filter.

1.) I want to add in a bypass for the new heater (diverter and check valve) and also upgrade the basic three way valve for the skimmer/main drain selection. Jandy NeverLubes or something else? How much spacing do I need between the in and out pipes to fit the 3-way and T fitting?

2.) Tentatively, the heater will be placed on the pad with the connections either facing the filter or 90° CCW from that position. Any preferences here?

3.) Thought about going all 2" for the on-pad plumbing, but with the pump and filter setup, it seems like there may not be anything gained. Will probably do that anyway as it should keep the head loss from the 90's down a little. Worth doing 2"?

4.) Still not really sure how to run the pipes around the pad, spacing, etc. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Also seems like the equipment should be secured to the pad so the plumbing isn't being stressed.

Anyway, anything else I should consider a must-do or anything I should avoid?
 

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The only two things that jumped out at me was that you still have a single speed motor, so this might be a good time to switch to a 2-speed or VSP if possible. While we're throwing around virtual money (ha) have you considered an SWG? Or is it not practical with the length of your swim season there?
 
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I've considered the VSP, but this one had a new motor put on it about two years ago, so it's going to stick around a little longer.

Not much desire to go to SWG. I think if anything, I'd go bleach injection pump. Not today though.
 
So, Jandy or another brand of valves? Seems like most people lean toward the Jandy and it's reliability/"rebuldability".

Two 3-port Neverlube 4715 diverters and one 7235 check valve?
 
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Will I be able to cement new pipe onto this buried flex PVC? I was hoping it only went a few feet and was only for hooking up the old heater (old heater had connections on side of it farthest from pump). Seems like it goes out under patio for all the plumbing. Not what I was hoping to find.
 

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Use normal PVC primer and glue on flex PVC.


 
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That’s tricky. If you could guarantee which model you’d get, or even manufacturer, you could plumb in a dummy pipe / unit now while you’re at it for a super easy swap later.

But a lot of folks have had to take what’s been available lately and change brands, so leaving the door open for that is probably the best bet. We thought the Covid demand/ shortages would be the worst of it. Then TX/OK froze. Then a ship went sideways stopping further reinforcements…….. my bingo card is full and I’m not even gonna pretend to have a guess what’s next.
 
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Put in a straight horizontal or vertical run where you can cut in a SWG and flow switch.
 
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My shopping list, so far:

10' of 2" Sch 40 PVC Pipe
6pc 2" Sch 40 PVC 90°
2pc 2" Sch 40 PVC 45°
2pc 1.5" Sch 40 PVC 90°
1pc 2" Sch 40 PVC "T"
3pc 1.5" to 2" Sch 40 PVC Adapters
2pc Jandy 1.5"/2" 3-way Valve 4715
1pc Jandy 1.5"/2" Check Valve 7235
1pc 2" Sch 40 PVC "T" for flow switch
PoolTite PVC cement
Oatey Purple Primer and Cleaner


Not sure if I need to worry about a flow switch at the moment, but figured it wouldn't hurt to have the provision for one if need be.

What am I forgetting?
 
You have a chop saw to cut the PVC pipe to length? What will you use to cut it?
 
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I used one of these to cut the pipes when I replumbed my pad last year and it really sped up the process... as for the variable speed pump I bought mine last July and per my calculations the break even point on the difference in the electric bill is late July or early August of this year. This was a product of our power company having a $400 rebate as part of their state sponsored energy efficiency program.


 
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I use unions because you never know when you need to get a piece of equipment out. My concern is where I buy from , HD may change suppliers and then they will not match. So I always have a few extra since they're cheap enough, about $10-$15 for 2".
Some say adding unions invites another point of a leak, which is true. But I can fix a leak.
I've changed all my equipment at least once in the last 19 years and unions make it easy.
 
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I used one of these to cut the pipes when I replumbed my pad last year and it really sped up the process... as for the variable speed pump I bought mine last July and per my calculations the break even point on the difference in the electric bill is late July or early August of this year. This was a product of our power company having a $400 rebate as part of their state sponsored energy efficiency program.


Bummed that our state is not offering any rebates on pool pumps right now. Maybe next year.
 
I want to put in a few fittings for flow and temp sensors that may be added later. What do I get for those?

Also, do I need any hose bibbs in the mix? I notice a lot of pad plumbing pictures that have a few.

So far, I've ordered the Jandy valves and the PVC cutter. Not sure if I really trust Home Depot unions, so may try to get those online... any recommendations? Pretty sure the current unions are all Hayward
 
Links to online PVC sources are in PVC Repair - Further Reading

Temperature senors are installed by drilling a hole in the pipe and clamping the sensor with a worm clamp.

 

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