Need help please, can’t get pool up and running

[aweronick]

I have a 20,000 gallon pool and I’m literally clueless how to get it up and running, if it’s even possible. I have two openings in the bottom of my skimmer. I understand after a little research that one goes to the main drain and one to the pump. The one closer to the pool is full to the top with debris. No clue if plugged/functional. Everything is going wrong with the pool. I don’t know if our Hayward Aqua Plus, Goldline is even functioning. The buttons barely work. I was able to finally get “filter” to light up. I don’t know what the Blue Works is. I was managing the pool and have pretty good levels. The salt has always been off so I am assuming the salt water system isn’t working. The debris on the bottom of the pool, does that mean it is clogged? I can’t get any pool service company out here, I’ve tried so many and they are all booked.
I don’t know if I just give up or what. I’ll include photos and ANY help is appreciated. Please respond as if you are talking to a toddler because I don’t understand any of this. I started off well with a TF-Pro test kit but everything else is not working.

 

[HermanTX]

Most all skimmers have 2 holes in the bottom. Sometimes one hole is connected to the main drain and sometimes it is plugged. The hole closest to the pool is normally the one connected to the main drain. However, your pump shows 2 lines on the suction side that is Tee’d together to the single line going to the pump. If all you have is a main drain and 1 skimmer then it is most likely those 2 lines are independently plumbed back to the pump. Therefore the debris in the hole of the skimmer is just that - debris. You can dig it out with your finger or a small stick. About 5 inches down will be the plug (hard bottom).

Does the pressure side cleaner work? Does the booster pump work? That should pick up the bottom debris. If not, do you have a manual vacuum? Use that to pick up the debris from the bottom of the pool. Or use a scoop net.

The Blue Works is the saltwater chlorine generator (SWCG). It may or may not be functioning. Suggest you use liquid chlorine to chlorinate the pool to prevent algae until it is determined if the SWCG works.

You state the filter light comes on, so that indicates the pump turns on and working please confirm.
Also can you post the results of your testing using the TF test kit?

Let’s handle the above before moving on.

 

[aweronick]

Thank you so much for your help! I appreciate you so much. I got to the bottom where the plug is. I do have a manual vacuum and I will use it to pick up the debris. I’ve been so upset over the pool and skipped out on testing the water for many days. Numbers aren’t too bad and I added what was suggested.
I did get the filter light to come on yesterday. I thought my husband was on top of all of this and clearly not. The pump does turn on and works.
I’m ready for the next steps, whenever you can help! Thank you!!!!

 

[HermanTX]

Thank you so much for your help! I appreciate you so much. I got to the bottom where the plug is. I do have a manual vacuum and I will use it to pick up the debris. I’ve been so upset over the pool and skipped out on testing the water for many days. Numbers aren’t too bad and I added what was suggested.
I did get the filter light to come on yesterday. I thought my husband was on top of all of this and clearly not. The pump does turn on and works.
I’m ready for the next steps, whenever you can help! Thank you!!!!

View attachment 582850

A CYA of 100 indicates you should do a partial drain. It appears you have a plaster pool so it would be best to drain some. Since we do not know if SWCG is working I would suggest that you start with liquid chlorine. Therefore when using LC it is best to have a CYA of 50-60ppm. This means draining 50% of your water. Are you OK with that? Do you have a drain line coming off the top of the filter? What type of filter is it? It is hard to see in the picture you posted. If so, then you can manual vacuum and drain at same time.
Even if your SWCG was working it still would be needed to drain - maybe 30-40% of the volume.

The pH of 7.5 or 7.6 is good - there is no need to add borax to increase pH and it also raises TA which is good at 70ppm
The CH is a little low but not critical right now. If you drain water, the CH will drop as well as CYA so we can adjust both after draining.

A FC of 3.5 is too low for a CYA of 100. But if you plan to drain there is no reason to add chlorine (LC).
Please look at Draining - Further Reading

 

[aweronick]

I couldn’t get the filter light on the Aqua Plus when I turned it back on. I bet it needs to be rewired.

 

[aweronick]

Am I doing anything with the skimmer hole that I just cleared and there is a plug in it?

 

[HermanTX]

Am I doing anything with the skimmer hole that I just cleared and there is a plug in it?

No. It is plugged on purpose since the main drain is plumbed back to the pump.

 

[HermanTX]

I couldn’t get the filter light on the Aqua Plus when I turned it back on. I bet it needs to be rewired.

I think you need to keep trying to find a pool service tech to come help. Go to a pool store and ask them for recommendations. Most of the time pool service techs leave business card at pool store for customers.
You have a single speed pump so it should just turn on and off as you hit the filter button if the Service light is on. If the service light is off as in the picture then it may be in auto mode which is running a preset schedule. So the pump will turn on and off based on the schedule.
The menu button will guide you through some of the options.

You have a sand filter. It has a setting for backwash in which you need to connect a hose to the waste line. There is also a waste setting which would allow you to manual vacuum and it will go to waste so this drains the pool and rids the bottom debris.

Does this make sense?

 

[aweronick]

I will definitely keep trying to find someone to come out. Now there is dripping coming from the front end (pipe) of my sand filter. The gasket was replaced and sealed not too long ago.
What is the valve for where the pipes are tee’d? What do I do with that or for what reason would I turn it?

 

[HermanTX]

What is the valve for where the pipes are tee’d? What do I do with that or for what reason would I turn it?

I think you are referring to the suction side of the pump. Based on earlier discussion, one of those lines is from the skimmer and the other is from main drain. The valve allows you to balance the flow from those 2 suction points. Right now there is equal suction from both.
If you wish to have more skimming action my hunch is that the pipe with the valve controls the main drain. The way to test this is as follows
Leave it open as it is now and feel the amount of suction in the skimmer by removing the basket and put your hand/fingers close to the suction hole.
Now turn that valve such that it is horizontal which would close off that pipe. Then check the suction again in the skimmer. It should slightly increase in suction. If there is no suction, then that valve controls the skimmer and not the main drain.
The pump should be on the full time of doing the tests.