Need help/advice on how to fix the chemistry issues on my pool -updated

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J

John2016

0
Sep 20, 2016
22
Orange county, CA
Hi all,
Please help me how to balance my pool's chemistry result. I just test my water at the pool's supply store few days ago.
The Free & total Chlorine are high because I just added the chlorine liquid 1 day before I test my water. I'm more worry about the rest of the chemical list.

What should I do now to correct my issues? I'm not expert in pool chemistry so any advise would be appreciated.
John



1659130536072.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 / TFPRO or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
 
Ideally get one of the recommended test kits for yourself. Pool store unreliable.
IF those numbers are accurate your CYA is way to high. Chlorine will be inhibited From sterilizing. Get the test first but maybe have to drain some water and refill to get CYA levels down.
 
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Hi John. You've got two problems here: you've got to stop using pool store testing, and two, if that test is to be believed, your CYA is way, way, way to high and some water is going to need to be drained. This is going to be an issue for you in California, so I'll wait for other people to chime in with options.

As far as testing goes, your Poolmaster kit is not sufficient as it lacks both a FAS-DPD chlorine test and the CYA test. As stated above, you will need either the K2006-C or the TF-100/TFPro. I certainly want to wait on real test results before suggesting you take any drastic measures with your water.

Additionally, you've gotta stop using chlorine tabs, it's driving your CYA out of control.
 
mknauss said:
You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 / TFPRO or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
Click to expand...
Thanks mknauss. Noted your advise, I will order the proper kit.
 
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dfwnoob said:
Hi John. You've got two problems here: you've got to stop using pool store testing, and two, if that test is to be believed, your CYA is way, way, way to high and some water is going to need to be drained. This is going to be an issue for you in California, so I'll wait for other people to chime in with options.

As far as testing goes, your Poolmaster kit is not sufficient as it lacks both a FAS-DPD chlorine test and the CYA test. As stated above, you will need either the K2006-C or the TF-100/TFPro. I certainly want to wait on real test results before suggesting you take any drastic measures with your water.

Additionally, you've gotta stop using chlorine tabs, it's driving your CYA out of control.
Click to expand...
Thanks dfwnoob, you're definitely right about chlorine tabs. I stopped using it about 3 months ago and start using liquid chlorine now. I definitely need a proper kit for my pool.
 
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mknauss said:
You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 / TFPRO or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
Click to expand...
quick question for you Mknauss: is there a big different between TF-100 and TF-100/PRO? I saw both can do the (7) tests. Thanks
 

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The Tf-Pro comes in a much nicer case, and includes the SmartStir device, which is highly recommended. Outside of that, they're pretty much the same. They can both perform the same tests and include the same regents.
 
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dfwnoob said:
The Tf-Pro comes in a much nicer case, and includes the SmartStir device, which is highly recommended. Outside of that, they're pretty much the same. They can both perform the same tests and include the same regents.
Click to expand...
I just ordered the TF-Pro. By the way, I only buy the liquid chlorine at Homedepot, is it OK to use?
when you guys talking about "add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine" : how much should I add in term of gallons? (the label on the bottle at Homedepot stated only 10% of sodium hypochlorite; 90% is others ingredient)
Thank you much!
 
You can calculate this with the PoolMath App:

PoolMath

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com


Or with the old PoolMath Webpage:

PoolMath

Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.
www.troublefreepool.com


In your 15k gal pool that's a bit less than 100 Oz of 10% liquid chlorine:

Screenshot_20220730-090835-788.png
 
mgtfp said:
You can calculate this with the PoolMath App:

PoolMath

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com


Or with the old PoolMath Webpage:

PoolMath

Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.
www.troublefreepool.com


In your 15k gal pool that's a bit less than 100 Oz of 10% liquid chlorine:
Click to expand...
Thanks mgtfp, I got it. and I just installed PoolMath app.
 
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John2016 said:
I just installed PoolMath app.
Click to expand...
Outstanding. :goodjob: Practice getting used to its features, especially the area called "Effects of Adding". Be sure to set all of your profile and pool info as well. There is also a profile setting that will allow TFP to see your Poolmath test logs. We recommend turning that on. Then when you hover your mouse over a member's avatar, a shortcut to their Poolmath logs will show-up. In the meantime, get familiar with the links below. It may seem like a lot right now, but believe me it will be easy stuff really fast.

SLAM Process
FC/CYA Levels
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Pool Care Basics
 
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John2016 said:
I just ordered the TF-Pro. By the way, I only buy the liquid chlorine at Homedepot, is it OK to use?
when you guys talking about "add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine" : how much should I add in term of gallons? (the label on the bottle at Homedepot stated only 10% of sodium hypochlorite; 90% is others ingredient)
Thank you much!
Click to expand...
I use the hd liquid chlorine and it works great and cheapest in my area. The one thing to look out for is the date codes listed on the box. When I went last week last week they were all over the place. It uses the Julian calendar and I saw some with 22045 ( February) and others with 22139 (May). I’m sure I looked crazy sitting in the aisle moving cases around lol
 

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John2016 said:
Hi all,
Please help me how to balance my pool's chemistry result. I just test my water at the pool's supply store few days ago.
The Free & total Chlorine are high because I just added the chlorine liquid 1 day before I test my water. I'm more worry about the rest of the chemical list.

What should I do now to correct my issues? I'm not expert in pool chemistry so any advise would be appreciated.
John



View attachment 441607
Click to expand...

Hi guys, here is my first test using TF Pro Test Kit, I did my best by follow the instruction:
FC = 7.5
TC = 7.5
PH = 8.2
CH = 525
TA = 130
Cya = 80
++++++++++++++++
Any advise would be appreciated. I start seeing some little green stuff around the wall every 3-4 days nowadays.
By the way I did drain about 1/15th of my pool water recently before this test.

Thanks all
 
Wow no response for 2 days?! Everyone is on vacation.
your CYA still looks high. use the chart to see how much more chlorine ppm you need with high cya. FC/CYA Levels
50-60 CYA may be a better level to manage FC levels more easily. Unfortunately that means drain and more fresh water to reduce CYA. Then you will need to do the SLAM process FULLY to kill all the algae. Read other posts about scrubbing the heck out of everything touching the water too. Lights. Ladders etc. to get rid of hiding algae.
 

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