Need advice

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John_and_Val

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Mar 30, 2018
304
Sunrise/FL
OK, so here are my current levels for this week. I have not added anything except a little acid (which is a far cry from 1/4 gallon a day!!!!)
FC - 10
CC - 0
pH - 7.7
TA - 50
CH - 320
CYA - 60
Salt - 3900
Temp - 80
CSI - -0.44

My TA has stabilized around 40 - 50 without having to add Sodium Bicarb
My pH is now pretty Dang solid at 7.7 thanks to not trying to raise the TA


My Question is - Should I do anything to get the CSI within that golden 0.3 to -0.3 range

Any other opinions, advice is currently wanted!!!!

By the way - the pool is looking the best it has since I built it last year!!!!!
 
Let the pH ride at 7.8-8 and that will increase your CSI a bit. Warmer water will too.

Otherwise looks good to me.
 
ok....
Found something else out today.... I run my intelliflo XF mainly at 1,000 rpm. I popped open the filter gauge (just because I was near it) and no water comes out. I read 0 on the guage also.
I have water coming out of the returns ( enough to feel it with your hand).....but not enough to register a psi on the gauge. when I bump the rpm's up - I start to read on the gauge and water flows from the filter gauge.

What do you think????
 
The pressure gauge on top of the cartridge filter - at 1,000 rpm it reads 0, but there is plenty of water movement in the pool for the 17 hours or so it is on that setting (equates to about 30 gph). And there is plenty of movement in the pool (from the returns). At 0 psi - if I open the bleeder valve on the canister pressure gauge on top of the unit - no water flows out. But I know there is water movement due to the returns flowing in the pool. And once it (my pump routine) cycles to a higher psi, water will come out of the canister pressure gauge bleeder valve if opened.
 
John_and_Val said:
The pressure gauge on top of the cartridge filter - at 1,000 rpm it reads 0, but there is plenty of water movement in the pool for the 17 hours or so it is on that setting (equates to about 30 gph). And there is plenty of movement in the pool (from the returns). At 0 psi - if I open the bleeder valve on the canister pressure gauge on top of the unit - no water flows out. But I know there is water movement due to the returns flowing in the pool. And once it (my pump routine) cycles to a higher psi, water will come out of the canister pressure gauge bleeder valve if opened.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the whole gauge/bleeder mechanism is clogged up. Usually these just unscrew for inspection/cleanout/repair.
 
Inspected and it is clean....no clogs or debris. I honestly believe that there is not enough pressure in the system to "force" the water up the required 3 feet or so to the gauge. which makes me wonder - how much water is going through the cartridge filter?
The pool water is as clear as it has ever been in the 1 year since building.... and when I clean the filter it does show debris in it - so it must be doing something!
???
 

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John_and_Val said:
Inspected and it is clean....no clogs or debris. I honestly believe that there is not enough pressure in the system to "force" the water up the required 3 feet or so to the gauge. which makes me wonder - how much water is going through the cartridge filter?
The pool water is as clear as it has ever been in the 1 year since building.... and when I clean the filter it does show debris in it - so it must be doing something!
???
Click to expand...

When you open the bleeder though air should rush out as the filter fills with water and eventually water should come out of the bleeder.
 
Forgive me, but why is CSI not important?
Click to expand...
Not important in Florida pools. It's purpose is to monitor and help you prevent scaling conditions in your pool........if you live in Arizona, that's important.

Florida pools typically have 60-90 CH fill water and 50+ inches of CH 0 fill water from rainfall. Scaling under those conditions seldom exists.
 
So about a month of letting the pool "run its course" and hear are my findings:
I lowered my CYA to 50 - 60
My CH is around 300-350
My TA I maintain around 50
With those numbers I have a FC between 6 - 7 with no CC

The pool is crystal clear, and pH is rock solid 7.7 with little adjusting now

We even had a TON OF rain this week - it lowered my CYA, CH and TA - but no signs of Algae.
I added chems to bring back up to above levels.

****I think the higher CYA I was maintaining was inhibiting the chlorine from doing its job*****

Any downside to what I am doing?
 
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