Need a little help from the Pro's on a Saltwater Pool...

Hey guys... Just to make it a little more manageable to track & read "at a glance", I wrote up this excel sheet real quickly. As of Monday the ONLY thing running is the VS Pump 24x7, and the heater where applicable. We are simply monitoring the levels. The SWG has been off and no adjustment of the chemicals have been made.

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Turn the SWG off to let the FC come down to range.
It would not have raised the CYA or the Salt.
Referencing the readings below for today, I'm happy to report that the FC, CH & CYA are beginning to lower slightly with the SWG being off. @PoolStored.. with the understanding that the FC readings are directly proportional to the CYA readings, based on your comment above, what do you consider "In range" before he should consider turning the SWG back on...? I "ASSUME" that, based off of the CYA being at 90, that the FC range should be 6-12 and that's what you are considering "In Range". Again, I just want to make sure we are only focusing at the CYA & FC at this time. Thank you sir...

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Okay.. here's a quick update... As mentioned, I went over late in the afternoon yesterday and performed the FC & CYA test following the directions from Step #8 as suggested. Using this method I got a reading of 40 ppm on the fill-tube, x2 will give me 80 for the CYA reading. The FC reading was at 13.5. Referencing the chart below, the FC reading only dropped 0.5 to 13ppm, and the CYA was still reading at 80.. The weather for today and tomorrow is expected to be Full sun and in the 90's with excessive humidity. That said, since the average FC LOSS throughout the day "WITHOUT" the SWG on has been about 3ppm, would you suggest that I have him put the SWG on 20% for 8 hours and allow the FC to slowly get back into range, or, should I have him leave the SWG Off and take a reading later this afternoon.... Just want to get your thoughts on this... Thank you guys..!!

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Not sure what you did yesterday, but if you dropped another 3ppm of FC, then I’d turn it on today at below recommendation. I’d run to higher side of FC target (9-11ppm) for your CYA at 80ppm.

From the Pool Math App, if your FC loss is ~3ppm/day, then for a 28k gallon pool with IC40 SWG, you need to be running pump 24hrs/day at 50% output on SWG. Or 12hrs/day at 100%.

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Hi Aubie... Since I didn't hear anything back and our numbers were 13, I actually did nothing yesterday. I figured I would let it go another day and let it run as normal WITHOUT the SWG on. My neighbor did not have an opportunity to test the pool last night, however, as of this morning the FC was at 11. That said, the FC only dropped 2ppm in a 24hr period.

For today only (for testing purposes) I am going to have him run the SWG at 100% for 8hrs just to see where the numbers come in at and to stay within range. Which according to pool math, "should" provide 2ppm within that time period. Based off of the numbers later today when he does the testing, my intention is to adjust the SWG down to 50% and run it 24x7 which should keep it on the higher side as you mentioned.

Once I have the FC and the SWG consistently dialed in on a 24x7, my next target is going to be adjusting the pH down to the 7.6 - 7.8 range. Then I think we should be good to go..

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Thank you sir..! Yes, he's an older gentlemen that is not apprised of todays technology or some of the resources (such as this forum) that are at his disposal. Up until this year he was using test strips and going to the pool store 2 or 3 times a week and getting robbed with the chemicals. I had him purchase a real test kit this year and set it up in such a way that was easy for him to understand by color-coding everything. I even created a little cheat-sheet for reference.
 
Just a quick update. It looks like we have the FC numbers dialed in as much as possible for the moment. I say that be we've had a lot of rain and storms happening in the area. So our next task is to adjust the Total Alkalinity and bring that back in range, which should also bring the PH back in range as well. I'm having him add 250oz of 14.5% Muriatic acid to lower the TA about 18ppm and back from 100ppm to around 80ppm.

Other than that, everything looks good to go. Again, I want to thank everyone for all of your help...!!

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STOP...do not add that much acid, you will lower pH by 2.4!!!!

Lower the pH in .4 increments until you get to 7.4. Then leave it and let it rise to 8.0. Repeat until TA is down to 80. Then STOP driving pH down below about 7.8. It should be stable at 7.8-8.0 with TA of 80.
 
Hey PoolStored... Thank you for the response..!! Since we had bad storms coming through yesterday, he did NOT add any chemicals to the pool, so that's a good thing. We had over 4.5 inches of rain and we are expecting more today as well. So we will need to drain some of the water regardless. Understood, so the process needs to happen gradually then. Just for the record, I did read multiple documents on TFP and some of the forum posts, and I dont not recall reading that it needs to happen in smaller increments. Possibly, I overlooked it, but I'm happy to do so.

So if I understand you correctly, and, according to PoolMath, I should lower the pH by 0.4ppm. PoolMath estimates the 100 oz. of 14.5% muriatic acid should reduce the pH by 0.4 and the Total Alkalinity by 7ppm. He should continue to do so until the pH reading gets to 7.4... let it go upto 8.0 and repeat until the TA gets to the target range of 80ppm.
 
Your description is correct. It may be less than .4 (i.e. you get to 7.6, then you only need to lower by .2)

See not from "Effect of adding" in pool math when you select acid...
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