gtrum60 said:
5 or 6 or 50-60? Theres a huge difference. The test kit can't test below 20....
Nature 2 system on agp
- Thread starter gtrum60
- Start date
5 or 6 or 50-60? Theres a huge difference. The test kit can't test below 20....
Sorry I mean't to say 50 or 60. I just added some acid and thought I would check again tomorrow. Do I have to wait to get this right before I add some bleach?
Sorry you didn't get a response last night I thought someone else might pick up where I left off.
I would suggest the following - have you played with the Pool Calculator? You should play with it a little, get to know how it works because you'll need to use it daily to calculate how much chems to add.
Take out the N2 cartridge and any trichlor tabs. Dispose.
1. Add enough bleach to reach shock level. Leave the pump running until the water is crystal clear.
(You can buy Clorox, the large 182 oz jugs, you'll need at least 4 to start (8 small) but will probably need a bit more so it's okay to stock up a bit, say 8 large or 12-14 small.... Wal-marts and Target's store brand bleach is cheaper, the jug size is slightly smaller but that's okay. If you can get 10-12.5% liquid chlorine from a pool store for around $3.00 a gallon, that's your best buy, and it will mean less jugs to carrry. Aldi bleach is good too. Avoid Biglots and Dollar Store bleaches.)
2. Today and/or tonight, add enough bleach to raise it to shock level. I used the Pool Calc and got 591 oz of 6% bleach. Pour it in, jug by jug, slowly to prevent splashing, over the return flow. Then, after sunset, waiting 30 minutes after the bleach addition, perform an overnight FC test. Test the FC/CC, and record the result. In the morning, before the sun hits the pool, test the FC and CC again. You are done shocking when you lose less than 1ppm of FC overnight, and your CC is .5 or less, and your water is clear. If these three things haven't happened by tomorrow morning, then you need to repeat the shock process/overnight test, until it does.
REgarding the TA and PH. Shock levels and anything above 10 FC will make the PH read a false-high. It is best to test and adjust PH when the FC level is below 10. So it will be too difficult to lower your TA while shocking. So tackle the chlorine issue first. Once that's done you can begin to lower the TA...
but - you didn't confirm if you repeated the TA test and if the result was the same. Did you try wiping the tip, did the results change?
So confirm that, and then lets tackle shocking. If during the process you notice high PH results, we need for the FC to drop below 10 before you can adjust the PH with acid. Do not try to adjust the PH if the FC is above 10.
Okay, I know it's alot but I hope this makes sense. Ask away if you are confused about anything.
I would suggest the following - have you played with the Pool Calculator? You should play with it a little, get to know how it works because you'll need to use it daily to calculate how much chems to add.
Take out the N2 cartridge and any trichlor tabs. Dispose.
1. Add enough bleach to reach shock level. Leave the pump running until the water is crystal clear.
(You can buy Clorox, the large 182 oz jugs, you'll need at least 4 to start (8 small) but will probably need a bit more so it's okay to stock up a bit, say 8 large or 12-14 small.... Wal-marts and Target's store brand bleach is cheaper, the jug size is slightly smaller but that's okay. If you can get 10-12.5% liquid chlorine from a pool store for around $3.00 a gallon, that's your best buy, and it will mean less jugs to carrry. Aldi bleach is good too. Avoid Biglots and Dollar Store bleaches.)
2. Today and/or tonight, add enough bleach to raise it to shock level. I used the Pool Calc and got 591 oz of 6% bleach. Pour it in, jug by jug, slowly to prevent splashing, over the return flow. Then, after sunset, waiting 30 minutes after the bleach addition, perform an overnight FC test. Test the FC/CC, and record the result. In the morning, before the sun hits the pool, test the FC and CC again. You are done shocking when you lose less than 1ppm of FC overnight, and your CC is .5 or less, and your water is clear. If these three things haven't happened by tomorrow morning, then you need to repeat the shock process/overnight test, until it does.
REgarding the TA and PH. Shock levels and anything above 10 FC will make the PH read a false-high. It is best to test and adjust PH when the FC level is below 10. So it will be too difficult to lower your TA while shocking. So tackle the chlorine issue first. Once that's done you can begin to lower the TA...
but - you didn't confirm if you repeated the TA test and if the result was the same. Did you try wiping the tip, did the results change?
So confirm that, and then lets tackle shocking. If during the process you notice high PH results, we need for the FC to drop below 10 before you can adjust the PH with acid. Do not try to adjust the PH if the FC is above 10.
Okay, I know it's alot but I hope this makes sense. Ask away if you are confused about anything.
Thanks good clear directions. I did retest the TA this morning after the acid last night and its still high 200. But like you said I'll worry about that after the clorox. I did play with the pool calculator but could never get the amount of bleach to calculate, Got the gallons of water okay. I'll play some more. I can shock this morning as long as I test levels after sunset, or that is what I think you are saying. Since we don't get thrown out for stupid questions thank goodness- why when I check the email notice and respond from there is does not show up on the web post?
Tammy
Tammy
gtrum60 said:
I don't know, never used that feature.
The pool calc - you entered your size - in the "now" column enter your most recent test results - in the "target" column enter your target
so if your FC is 1 and your target is 15 - okay, hit calculate. Then it will give you an "ADD _____ oz" in the first box to the right of the target column. If you move your mouse/cursor over that amount, in the rectangle above that it converts it to jugs, etc.Shock this morning, test in the evening, preferably after sunset, add more bleach if necessary to reach shock level, then wait 30 minutes and test again. it's the final test result after the last bleach addition, that you want to compare to tomorrow morning's results.
Hope someone can tell me why this happened. I just shocked the pool with about 600 oz bleach with help of poolmom. Even though I am going to check FC & CC levels tonight I dec ided to check the levels now. I did the FC fine and came up with 16.5. But While I was reading the directions on the CC the water turned back to a lavendar color. Did I do something wrong--worked fine yesterday.
gtrum60 said:
No, you just waited too long to do the second part of the test. You need to test for CC's right away, don't let it sit. More than 1 minute it will turn color again.
Thought I would report my results. Brought the pool back up to shock level last night, waited 30 min and retested FC was 12 and CC .5 This morning it is actually higher than last night --FC is 15 and CC barely distinguishable say .5 on the high side. I'll wait until it drops below 10 and then get more info on the high TA.
Do I need to add an algaecide as an preventative? And with my pool being in the sun 12-14hrs. a day does the CYA need to be checked often?
Do I need to add an algaecide as an preventative? And with my pool being in the sun 12-14hrs. a day does the CYA need to be checked often?
gtrum60 said:
Great! My suspicion is the bleach just wasn't all the way dispersed when you tested. But I'd say the levels are good enough that you don't need to shock again. You can allow the FC to drop and start running with your normal levels/targets for your CYA.
You should check your CYA monthly - with backwashing the number will slowly go down.
You don't need algaecide. Keep your FC above the "min" -4- for your CYA and you won't get algae.
So each night, test, add enough bleach to reach your "target" -7 - and that should keep you above the "min" -4 - each day.
You've got the idea, after the FC drops you can tackle the TA.
This is the best thing ever. I can't tell you how trips I would make to the pool store. And we live out in the country. I tested the water this morning and the chlor level was 8ppm the ph is 7.6 and TA is 180. At this point can I add some acid this morning? Is it unusal to lose that much chlorine in one day? It was 15 yesterday morning. The water looks great. I was surprised the bleach didn' turn the water cloudy like the packaged shock would. Is this because there was nothing in the water to kill?
gtrum60 said:
BBB is the best thing ever, I totally agree.
Just think all the gas you're gonna save.If you want to lower your TA, read the article on how to do it in Pool School - it's a 2 step process that has to be repeated. You add acid to lower PH to 7.2 (this lowers TA) then you Aerate to raise the PH back to 7.6. You repeat this till the TA is where you want it and the PH is perfect. You only need to go about this process if you see your PH drift up to 7.8 every day and you have to add acid. If your PH doesn't budge, don't worry about it - 7.6 is great
Yes, losing 50% of your FC when it's that high, over 24 hours, is normal. Average daily loss at normal levels is around 2 ppm, give or take. So add enough each nite to compensate for that. If you are having swimmers, add an extra 2ppm FC ahead of the session and then test when they're done swimming. Keeping your solar cover on (if you have one) during the day will also cut back on FC significantly.
Clouding from shock bags- possibly a combination of high PH and shocking with Cal-hypo. Yes, bleach is the MAGIC!
I'm slowly gettin the TA down its at 150. I don't have a fountain so its taking longer. How do you know if you have active mustard algae or if its dead. I treated for it before I started this system. I vaccumed to waste--I know I didn't get it all because I was running low on water. I can vaccum now and it comes right back but never gets worse. I understand its so fine its not filtered very well. Just don't want it anymore--have battled it for three years.
Also can you tell me more about a solar cover. I would like to get one.
Also can you tell me more about a solar cover. I would like to get one.
If your FC is holding overnight, you don't have Mustard Algae - it's either dirt or pollen.
What about Solar Covers would you like to know? You can do a google search in the bottom left corner, there have been lots of articles regarding them.
What about Solar Covers would you like to know? You can do a google search in the bottom left corner, there have been lots of articles regarding them.
Thats certainly welcome news. Does a solar cover warm up the water? Its warm now--and it would be nice to find a way to keep it from getting too warm.
Yes, a solar cover helps warm up the water. It really helps to retain heat at night.
If you want to cool your pool down, the best way I've found is to use a fountain.
If you want to cool your pool down, the best way I've found is to use a fountain.
gtrum60 said:
They are more effective at heat retention at nite than actually heating it during the day. They are great at preventing evaporation and protecting the FC from UV during the day, if the pool is not in use. In July, if my water gets too hot, 92 degrees or more, I just leave the cover off at nite and it cools down to a reasonable 88 degrees. So if you find the water too warm, leave it off at nite. Fountains are quite usefull for several issues!
We just had a storm come through our area and got an inch or more of rain. Do I have to shock the pool?
Nope. You can just keep an eye on the FC and if you notice a big drop, bump it back up or maybe up it 1-2ppm higher than you normally would run it, if you like.
It's more of an issue if winds or rain dump something organic in the water, remove it as soon as is resaonable.
You can just keep an eye on the FC and if you notice a big drop, bump it back up or maybe up it 1-2ppm higher than you normally would run it, if you like.It's more of an issue if winds or rain dump something organic in the water, remove it as soon as is resaonable.
I must be doing something wrong. I have clinging algae growing--the water is clear though. Tested Fc and it was 7 same as last night--been cloudy all day. PH is 7.4, TA still high 150. Went to Defeating algae and it said chlorine levels would drop with algae growing. I have not had metals checked because the store did not have any tests in stock. Could high metals cause this? I have not let the FC level drop below 5 and don't have any CC levels.