My SWG diagnostics don't look right.
- Thread starter bobby2175
- Start date
Thank you. I didn't realize there was a correlation between the two. I have another temp sensor in the pool measuring at 85 while the cell is at 93 (these are both coming from my omnilogic app. Does that sound right or do I need to investigate further?
Ok, let me see if I can figure this out. The SWG is definitely wrong. The pool is not that warm and I have used the heater to warm up the pool in the past 24 hours, but the heater definitely does not use the SWG temp for that.
If anyone has any troubleshooting ideas, I'll gladly take them!
I figured it out. Found another thread where it was mentioned that if the SWG is after the heater that it would be picking up warmer water. Turned the heater off and current went immediately below 7.
Question...as practice, should I turn the SWG off when running the heater?
Question...as practice, should I turn the SWG off when running the heater?
For a 300,000 btu/hr heater with 83% efficiency, the actual heat transferred to the water will be about 250,000 btu/hr.
250,000/(GPM x 60 x 8.34)
The formula for temperature rise from inlet to outlet is Y = 500/X.
X = 500/Y.
So, if you know the temperature rise, you can estimate the flow.
For a temperature rise of 8 degrees, the flow can be estimated at 500/8 = 62.5 GPM.
If you drop the flow down to 50 GPM, the temp rise should be about 10 degrees.
If you drop the flow down to 40 GPM, the temp rise should be about 12.5 degrees.
If you drop the flow down to 35 GPM, the temp rise should be about 14 degrees.
If we use the minimum allowable flow rate of 25 gpm, then the maximum temperature rise that you should ever see is 20 degrees.
I would probably target 35 to 40 GPM to save power while providing enough flow.
The only problem with going lower on the flow is that the higher temp rise might make the cell amps go above 8.0 and that would cause an error.
If you lower the salinity, that would allow a slower pump speed without causing a high amp/high salt error.
www.wolframalpha.com
250,000/(GPM x 60 x 8.34)
The formula for temperature rise from inlet to outlet is Y = 500/X.
X = 500/Y.
So, if you know the temperature rise, you can estimate the flow.
For a temperature rise of 8 degrees, the flow can be estimated at 500/8 = 62.5 GPM.
If you drop the flow down to 50 GPM, the temp rise should be about 10 degrees.
If you drop the flow down to 40 GPM, the temp rise should be about 12.5 degrees.
If you drop the flow down to 35 GPM, the temp rise should be about 14 degrees.
If we use the minimum allowable flow rate of 25 gpm, then the maximum temperature rise that you should ever see is 20 degrees.
I would probably target 35 to 40 GPM to save power while providing enough flow.
The only problem with going lower on the flow is that the higher temp rise might make the cell amps go above 8.0 and that would cause an error.
If you lower the salinity, that would allow a slower pump speed without causing a high amp/high salt error.
plot Y = 500/X, y from 3 to 50 - Wolfram|Alpha
Wolfram|Alpha brings expert-level knowledge and capabilities to the broadest possible range of people—spanning all professions and education levels.
www.wolframalpha.com
Thank you so much for this information. I'm now thinking about whether there is a balance between going to min flow to increase water temp and just turn the chlorinator off while the heater is on to be most efficient and then use liquid chlorine to bring the FC up if I need to while the SWG is off.For a 300,000 btu/hr heater with 83% efficiency, the actual heat transferred to the water will be about 250,000 btu/hr.
250,000/(GPM x 60 x 8.34)
The formula for temperature rise from inlet to outlet is Y = 500/X.
X = 500/Y.
So, if you know the temperature rise, you can estimate the flow.
For a temperature rise of 8 degrees, the flow can be estimated at 500/8 = 62.5 GPM.
If you drop the flow down to 50 GPM, the temp rise should be about 10 degrees.
If you drop the flow down to 40 GPM, the temp rise should be about 12.5 degrees.
If you drop the flow down to 35 GPM, the temp rise should be about 14 degrees.
If we use the minimum allowable flow rate of 25 gpm, then the maximum temperature rise that you should ever see is 20 degrees.
I would probably target 35 to 40 GPM to save power while providing enough flow.
The only problem with going lower on the flow is that the higher temp rise might make the cell amps go above 8.0 and that would cause an error.
If you lower the salinity, that would allow a slower pump speed without causing a high amp/high salt error.
View attachment 526756
View attachment 526753
View attachment 526759
plot Y = 500/X, y from 3 to 50 - Wolfram|Alpha
Wolfram|Alpha brings expert-level knowledge and capabilities to the broadest possible range of people—spanning all professions and education levels.
Lots to think about, but to me that makes the most sense because with the temperature swings we have this time of year in Ohio, it takes a lot of time to get the heater to warm the pool with my current setup.
Is there any risk to equipment at min flow and +20 degrees if I went this route? I'll need to figure out what this min flow is on my VS pump.
Every time I post something here, I always learn so much. Thanks to you all for taking the time to teach.
What is the pump model number?
What is the pump speed when the heater is on?
What is the filter pressure at that speed?
I would stay above the minimum flow by about 10 gpm to be safe.
Heaters need good flow to work properly and you never want to be below the required flow rate.
In my opinion, all heaters should come with a flow switch and not a pressure switch to make sure that the flow is good.
What is the pump speed when the heater is on?
What is the filter pressure at that speed?
I would stay above the minimum flow by about 10 gpm to be safe.
Heaters need good flow to work properly and you never want to be below the required flow rate.
In my opinion, all heaters should come with a flow switch and not a pressure switch to make sure that the flow is good.
For a gas heater with an Aquarite T15 after, I would probably lower the salinity to about 2,700 ppm and then change the cell type in the settings to T9.
Changing the setting makes it calculate the salinity higher by about 1.5 times.
So, 2,700 ppm will read as about 4,000 ppm.
This will prevent the amperage from getting too high (8.0 amps is the maximum) and it will prevent the system from showing the "Low Salt" warning light.
Note that Hayward does not endorse this, so if you do it, you do it based on your own risk, your own research and your own choice.
I do not recommend doing this and I am only providing information about my opinion.
Changing the setting makes it calculate the salinity higher by about 1.5 times.
So, 2,700 ppm will read as about 4,000 ppm.
This will prevent the amperage from getting too high (8.0 amps is the maximum) and it will prevent the system from showing the "Low Salt" warning light.
Note that Hayward does not endorse this, so if you do it, you do it based on your own risk, your own research and your own choice.
I do not recommend doing this and I am only providing information about my opinion.
I have the Hayward TriStar VS 950. I run it at 60% 24X7 and it sits at about 3 psi at this speed. I'm not sure what the RPMs are. I need to tinker with the speeds to understand at what point the heater no longer will run so I can play around with it.
I like your thought on the flow switch - that makes sense.
Here's where I am right now in the attached.
Are there any other risks to going to a T9 setting?
Heater is on now....that's why the amps are up.
I like your thought on the flow switch - that makes sense.
Here's where I am right now in the attached.
Are there any other risks to going to a T9 setting?
Heater is on now....that's why the amps are up.
Speed is percent X 3,450.
60% is 2,070 RPM.
What is the heater inlet temperature and what is the cell temperature at that speed with the heater on?
60% is 2,070 RPM.
What is the heater inlet temperature and what is the cell temperature at that speed with the heater on?
So, right now, with the heater on, the cell temp is 94.8, and I believe it's the inlet temp at 85.
Just turned the heater off and the cell temp went down immediately 85.9. Amps are at 6.66.
The formula for temperature rise from inlet to outlet is Y = 500/X.
X = 500/Y.
For a 10 degree temperature rise, we can estimate the flow to be about 50 gpm.
So if I understand everything you've been sharing with me, then I could theoretically reduce the flow by 50% and still hit the min requirements of the heater...does that sound right?
I would probably target 35 to 40 GPM to save power while providing enough flow.
In my opinion, 25 gpm is too low.
What is the power usage at 60%.
You can change the reading from percentage to rpm in the settings if you want.
In my opinion, 25 gpm is too low.
What is the power usage at 60%.
You can change the reading from percentage to rpm in the settings if you want.
A few questions:
1. Any risk in running the lower rpm and having 100+ degree water running through the system other than what we're discussing with the SWG?
2. What are the risks moving to T9?
3. Easy way to figure out power usage?