My plan for next year, the pool being algae free

[Kjrivalsi]

I have a few comments/questions please.

Background:
I have used 3" slow tab chlorine in my pool for 30 years
Often at the end of the season, I have a green algae problem
This year the good folks on this forum have helped me identify what is probably going on.

Last (Sept 3, 2021) water test results from Pool store:
free chlorine = 22.54 ppm - (I had shocked it recently)
Total chlorine = 22.54 ppm
Combined chlorine = 0 ppm
pH = 7.2
Hardness = 203 ppm
Alkalinity = 100 ppm
Cyanuric Acid = 102 ppm - I believe this is a large part of my problem, way too high!!

My plan for next year's season is:
1) Stopping 3" tab and switching to liquid chlorine (non-stabilized)
2) Switching to Liquid shock (non-stabilized)
3) Getting the CYA to a better level
4) Testing the water myself and often (TF-100 kit)

Does this sound right?

- thanks, Ken

 

[Texas Splash]

Does this sound right?

Yes! Be sure to put the TF-100 with magnetic speedstir on your Christmas wish list.

 

[Sunnydaze]

I have a few comments/questions please.

Background:
I have used 3" slow tab chlorine in my pool for 30 years
Often at the end of the season, I have a green algae problem
This year the good folks on this forum have helped me identify what is probably going on.

Last (Sept 3, 2021) water test results from Pool store:
free chlorine = 22.54 ppm - (I had shocked it recently)
Total chlorine = 22.54 ppm
Combined chlorine = 0 ppm
pH = 7.2
Hardness = 203 ppm
Alkalinity = 100 ppm
Cyanuric Acid = 102 ppm - I believe this is a large part of my problem, way too high!!

My plan for next year's season is:
1) Stopping 3" tab and switching to liquid chlorine (non-stabilized)
2) Switching to Liquid shock (non-stabilized)
3) Getting the CYA to a better level
4) Testing the water myself and often (TF-100 kit)

Does this sound right?

- thanks, Ken

Note that liquid chlorine and liquid shock are the same thing. Liquid chlorine intended for pools is typically 10% to 12.5% chlorine. Manufacturers like to label some of it as "shock" as a trick to get you to buy both "liquid chlorine" and "liquid shock." In reality, they're the same thing. Just pay attention to the stength.

 

[V___25]

Sounds like a good plan!
Did you already close the pool for the season? Just curious if you drained down any water prior to closing. IF your CYA level is accurate (and that's a big IF), that's the only way to get it down. We'll be looking forward to your numbers at the start of next season from your own test kit

 

[PoolStored]

There is no need to "shock" anything or anybody.

Check out --->ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure you read ---> FC/CYA Levels

You likely will have to replace about 50% of your water. Get a good test kit, determine your exact CYA before you exchange. Good Read ---> Draining

 

[meestahmarc]

I had the same problem year 1... now I rely on a combination. mainly used liquid chlorine, it's easy to use. sometimes I throw in a few pucks, and once in awhile I'll mix a few buckets of some granular shock. This way, my CYA doesn't go too high.

 

[Kjrivalsi]

Sounds like a good plan!
Did you already close the pool for the season? Just curious if you drained down any water prior to closing. IF your CYA level is accurate (and that's a big IF), that's the only way to get it down. We'll be looking forward to your numbers at the start of next season from your own test kit

@V___25 I have not yet closed my pool. I understand "changing" some of the water is in my future but I am okay with that.

 

[Kjrivalsi]

There is no need to "shock" anything or anybody.

Check out --->ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure you read ---> FC/CYA Levels

You likely will have to replace about 50% of your water. Get a good test kit, determine your exact CYA before you exchange. Good Read ---> Draining

@PoolStored I agree. I know I have that in my future.

 

[Kjrivalsi]

I had the same problem year 1... now I rely on a combination. mainly used liquid chlorine, it's easy to use. sometimes I throw in a few pucks, and once in awhile I'll mix a few buckets of some granular shock. This way, my CYA doesn't go too high.

@meestahmarc Sounds reasonable, thanks.

 

[BowserB]

Here's one thought. Don't buy anything with a name that suggests what it's supposed to do. pH UP, pH down, calcium up, "shock", "clarifier", "algae killer", and so on. If you buy the materials you need (chlorine, baking soda, muriatic acid, etc.) you will spend less and in most cases get the same or superior results. Proper test kit is very helpful, plus it saves you having to say, No thanks to the pool store guy, when he tells you "Alkalinity Up" is superior to the 13.5 lb. bag of generic baking soda at the supermarket for half the price (or less.)

BTW, I find that CYA drops over winter. Others have found that too, although I have not read an explanation for why.

 

[Kjrivalsi]

Here's one thought. Don't buy anything with a name that suggests what it's supposed to do. pH UP, pH down, calcium up, "shock", "clarifier", "algae killer", and so on. If you buy the materials you need (chlorine, baking soda, muriatic acid, etc.) you will spend less and in most cases get the same or superior results. Proper test kit is very helpful, plus it saves you having to say, No thanks to the pool store guy, when he tells you "Alkalinity Up" is superior to the 13.5 lb. bag of generic baking soda at the supermarket for half the price (or less.)

BTW, I find that CYA drops over winter. Others have found that too, although I have not read an explanation for why.

@BowserB Thanks for you comments. I like your suggestion about "no-descriptive" titles. I tend to like to do it myself as well. I am going to buy the TF-100 test kit.
Glad to hear the CYA drops over the winter. I was hoping that was the case since mine is quite high (102). Ken

 

[Mdragger88]

Hey K glad u found tfp!
No time like the present to put your pool on the liquid diet. You can start today
Save the tabs for vacation.
Be sure to maintain at least 10ppm from here on out if your cya is really that high. FC/CYA Levels
It is safe to swim between minimum & slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the deep end.
When u get your kit in & can do a proper cya test you can adjust based on what u find. The pool store cya testing can be way off so definitely don’t proceed with a water exchange until u get your own results. You will need to do the diluted test if it shows over 90ppm.
Also to avoid opening up to a scary green swamp we recommend closing late & opening early when the water temp is in the low 60’s for both. This is especially important with such a high cya level.
Here’s a guide on that

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Kjrivalsi]

Hey K glad u found tfp!
No time like the present to put your pool on the liquid diet. You can start today
Save the tabs for vacation.
Be sure to maintain at least 10ppm from here on out if your cya is really that high. FC/CYA Levels
It is safe to swim between minimum & slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the deep end.
When u get your kit in & can do a proper cya test you can adjust based on what u find. The pool store cya testing can be way off so definitely don’t proceed with a water exchange until u get your own results. You will need to do the diluted test if it shows over 90ppm.
Also to avoid opening up to a scary green swamp we recommend closing late & opening early when the water temp is in the low 60’s for both. This is especially important with such a high cya level.
Here’s a guide on that

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.troublefreepool.com

@Mdragger88 Thanks for your comments and tips. Using the tabs for vacation sound like a good idea.