My pad and manifold setup is garbage. How would you fix?

[LDiCosimo]

I have a new VS pump coming and I was planning on a DIY install. Right now I'm brainstorming how to fix this mess of a pad that I have. (The house came this way).

I have room to slide the filter over. I could even add pavers to get more space for it. But I'm still concerned about the line into the pump. Not sure there's room for a full 5x diameter, but I could do a long sweep maybe?

I'm also planning on a SWG after the filter with a flow viz with check valve in between.

 

[newdude]

Hey LD !!! No need for the check valve with a SWG. With a tab/chlorine feeder it may seep back into your heater, but the SWG won't.

The flo-vis is a neat toy, but it's for you and not the system. So if you want to get your geek on and play with toys, by all means do so. Or just dial up the RPMs to find where the heater and SWG work and use the RPMs as your guide instead of the flow.

Also, you will want the new pump firmly on the ground or a paver.

 

[HermanTX]

I have a new VS pump coming and I was planning on a DIY install. Right now I'm brainstorming how to fix this mess of a pad that I have. (The house came this way).

I have room to slide the filter over. I could even add pavers to get more space for it. But I'm still concerned about the line into the pump. Not sure there's room for a full 5x diameter, but I could do a long sweep maybe?

I'm also planning on a SWG after the filter with a flow viz with check valve in between.

I have never seen a pump on an angle like that. I would push the filter to the right and try to have a straight line to the pump firmly on the ground (or maybe elevated on some pavers but still level). Then just tie in the exit of the pump to the inlet of the filter & lengthen your line to the heater.

If you really wanted to get crazy you could cut off the elbows of all 3 vertical pipes for suction and start again. Use Jandy never lube 2 way valves to replace those orange handle valves on suction line.

The SWCG should be after the heater so you need to plumb that line again as well. It looks easy enough to put on that horizontal line on the ground to the pool returns.

 

[LDiCosimo]

Thanks, i do think I'll be redoing all plumbing inside the manifolds, maybe even those too like Herman mentioned.

Even if a check valve isn't completely necessary, I'd still feel better having one after the heater. I'll be placing a sacrificial anode somewhere too. probably between filter and heater?

 

[BMerrill]

This is a well setup equipment pad. Gives you something to work towards.
Used it as a guide for mine.

 

[newdude]

Even if a check valve isn't completely necessary, I'd still feel better having one after the heater

If that's how you sleep better at night, it's far cheaper than going to the DR for pills in the long term.

I'll be placing a sacrificial anode somewhere

This one is *particularly* for you alone. But it won't hurt you other than the small initial cost. Have at it if you must.

do think I'll be redoing all plumbing inside the manifolds, maybe even those too like Herman mentioned.

Nows the time, they say. It would suck to replace half of it and be right back out there if anything failed in the next couple of years.

 

[ajw22]

Thanks, i do think I'll be redoing all plumbing inside the manifolds, maybe even those too like Herman mentioned.

Even if a check valve isn't completely necessary, I'd still feel better having one after the heater. I'll be placing a sacrificial anode somewhere too. probably between filter and heater?

Include a heater bypass. Just takes a new 3 way diverter and includes the CV you desire.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[1poolman1]

Save yourself some headache and DO NOT put a tab feeder in your system. Even with a "chemical resistant" check valve, I have seen many heaters damaged by those things. The valve will fail and you won't know it. When the system is off, the highly corrosive "soup" that is inside a feeder can be siphoned backward through the heater where will do damage. If you are going to use tablets, put them in a floater where they can add a little chlorine 24/7. Tab feeders only work when the pump is running. I replace heaters and tell all my customers to remove the feeder or call another company. I won't install a terribly expensive piece of equipment knowing that it will be damaged by another cheap piece of equipment.

By the way, your pump is hanging on the plumbing, a big no-no. The base that the pump is supposed to be sitting on is missing. It is part # C4-77P and is still available which is interesting as Pentair stopped making that pump many years ago (yes, Pentair owns Sta-Rite).

 

[BMerrill]

Save yourself some headache and DO NOT put a tab feeder in your system. Even with a "chemical resistant" check valve, I have seen many heaters damaged by those things. The valve will fail and you won't know it. When the system is off, the highly corrosive "soup" that is inside a feeder can be siphoned backward through the heater where will do damage. If you are going to use tablets, put them in a floater where they can add a little chlorine 24/7. Tab feeders only work when the pump is running. I replace heaters and tell all my customers to remove the feeder or call another company. I won't install a terribly expensive piece of equipment knowing that it will be damaged by another cheap piece of equipment.

By the way, your pump is hanging on the plumbing, a big no-no. The base that the pump is supposed to be sitting on is missing. It is part # C4-77P and is still available which is interesting as Pentair stopped making that pump many years ago (yes, Pentair owns Sta-Rite).

G

 

[LDiCosimo]

Save yourself some headache and DO NOT put a tab feeder in your system. Even with a "chemical resistant" check valve, I have seen many heaters damaged by those things. The valve will fail and you won't know it. When the system is off, the highly corrosive "soup" that is inside a feeder can be siphoned backward through the heater where will do damage. If you are going to use tablets, put them in a floater where they can add a little chlorine 24/7. Tab feeders only work when the pump is running. I replace heaters and tell all my customers to remove the feeder or call another company. I won't install a terribly expensive piece of equipment knowing that it will be damaged by another cheap piece of equipment.

By the way, your pump is hanging on the plumbing, a big no-no. The base that the pump is supposed to be sitting on is missing. It is part # C4-77P and is still available which is interesting as Pentair stopped making that pump many years ago (yes, Pentair owns Sta-Rite).

I'm going with a salt water generator not a tab feeder.
I'm getting a whole new pump and looking for recommendations about how I should reshuffle the pad so I can do it properly and fix the problem of the hanging pump