Hooray..... finally got my TF100...thanks Dave, the parcel arrived safely and not paying a single cent for duty of any kind.
Did my first test and got the following:
FC 2
CC 0.5
TA 80 (My Aussie Gold 4in1 test kit show 60)
CH 60 (Pipe water 40)
PH 7.8
CYA ?? (TF100 can only test 20 or above) into my 3rd pucks from 0 CYA
Temp 80 F
Salt 3500
Water Clarity: Still sparkling blue
Now I got a few questions:
1) When testing CH, after adding in R0011L, instead of red, I only get purplish (not even pinkish) but it did turn blue on my 8th drop. Is the test correct?
2) My pipe filled pool (over Christmas) test CH 60 which I belief is well below your recommendation. I use concrete pool with ceremic tile. How to bring up the CH and to what level (or should I use the level recommended for plaster pool since my plastering is only limited to the grout filling). I don't get rain water for fill/overflow as my pool is under shed. The only chemical available here are Trichlor, Sodium Hypochlorite 10%, bleach at 6%, 5.25%, Calcium Hypo, dry acid, sodium bicarbonate, soda ash, ph up and ph down. Also the only metal parts that ever got contact with the pool water is whatever in the pump and swg cell, all else are either ceramic, grout and plastic. My swg off at the moment while undergoing pucks treatment to get my CYA up. Will revert to full SWG (+ bleach for shocking when necessary) when CYA is sufficient.
3) Why my TF100 test TA at 80 while my Aussie Gold (by Pool solution Australia) only test 60. Am I testing it wrong?
4) I am running my pump for one turnover a day. Anything else that I need to do? All $, 2 c or even 1 c advice are most welcomed.
Oh, the TF100 is a much easier to use testkit when doing color comparisson than my Aussie Gold.
Thanks.
Did my first test and got the following:
FC 2
CC 0.5
TA 80 (My Aussie Gold 4in1 test kit show 60)
CH 60 (Pipe water 40)
PH 7.8
CYA ?? (TF100 can only test 20 or above) into my 3rd pucks from 0 CYA
Temp 80 F
Salt 3500
Water Clarity: Still sparkling blue
Now I got a few questions:
1) When testing CH, after adding in R0011L, instead of red, I only get purplish (not even pinkish) but it did turn blue on my 8th drop. Is the test correct?
2) My pipe filled pool (over Christmas) test CH 60 which I belief is well below your recommendation. I use concrete pool with ceremic tile. How to bring up the CH and to what level (or should I use the level recommended for plaster pool since my plastering is only limited to the grout filling). I don't get rain water for fill/overflow as my pool is under shed. The only chemical available here are Trichlor, Sodium Hypochlorite 10%, bleach at 6%, 5.25%, Calcium Hypo, dry acid, sodium bicarbonate, soda ash, ph up and ph down. Also the only metal parts that ever got contact with the pool water is whatever in the pump and swg cell, all else are either ceramic, grout and plastic. My swg off at the moment while undergoing pucks treatment to get my CYA up. Will revert to full SWG (+ bleach for shocking when necessary) when CYA is sufficient.
3) Why my TF100 test TA at 80 while my Aussie Gold (by Pool solution Australia) only test 60. Am I testing it wrong?
4) I am running my pump for one turnover a day. Anything else that I need to do? All $, 2 c or even 1 c advice are most welcomed.
Oh, the TF100 is a much easier to use testkit when doing color comparisson than my Aussie Gold.
Thanks.