Mustard Algae Problem

McIntyre87

Active member
Aug 1, 2019
26
West Virginia
Ok so after my first post I was told to get the TF100 kit. That is currently being ordered. In the MEANTIME (don’t throw me to the wolves) I visited the local magicians who gave me the attached results sheet.

I currently have 2 tablets (non CYA) in a floater. I have what I believe to be mustard algae that appears to be getting worse but was told at the pool store the pool conditions look fine.

Question 1- until I can get the kit, what should I do? Most of the current algae dusts up but there are some dots that wouldn’t even scrub off the last time I messed with it a few days ago. The longer I don’t vacuum to waste the more I feel it’s getting worse, is this true? I don’t feel like getting more chemicals (again)...I’ve spent hundreds of dollars these last few weeks buying chemicals that haven’t resolved the issue.

Question 2- The pool people mentioned changing the sand and that it could be contaminated. I asked how often the sand should be changed and they said typically yearly. Should I change the sand at this point? Or is this false info? Would I just be getting the new sand contaminated?

Question 3- For the algae that won’t scrub off. I’ve thought of having to swim to the bottom and vigorously scrub with a smaller brush. Though the thought of having to go under this water is creeping me out. Is that the only way and when should I do that?
 

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0 - Fill out your signature please :)
1 - add 1/2 gallon of bleach per day to your pool with the pump running. Regular, non scented, not splashproof, not Clorox.
2 - You can take your filter apart and inspect/deep clean the sand if you like. This should be done yearly, btw. There is (very likely) no reason to replace it.
3 -Wouldn't hurt but until you get your chemistry problem sorted out (test kit) it'll just come back.
 
0 - Fill out your signature please :)
1 - add 1/2 gallon of bleach per day to your pool with the pump running. Regular, non scented, not splashproof, not Clorox.
2 - You can take your filter apart and inspect/deep clean the sand if you like. This should be done yearly, btw. There is (very likely) no reason to replace it.
3 -Wouldn't hurt but until you get your chemistry problem sorted out (test kit) it'll just come back.

So add the bleach AND keep the two tablets going? How did you arrive to having me add 1/2 of a container daily? Also is this the 6% bleach or 10% liquid chlorine?
 
Welcome to TFP!

I will say I'm doubtful you are dealing with mustard algae. It tends to be a catch-all for "algae that won't go away after using several pool store items". The unfortunate truth is that the solutions sold by pool stores are very hit and miss. However, the upcoming good test results will help shed some light on this and help get you on the right path.

What tablets are you using? Also do you happen to know what all chemicals you have added in an attempt to correct this? Most are relatively harmless in the long-term, but others might cause trouble in the long run. Knowing what all went in to the pool will help us narrow down any problems or issues you might run in to ahead.
 
If you are getting a new test kit in the next few days, those pucks aren't going to raise CYA by a significant amount.

Your pool appears to be an above ground pool, probably in the neighborhood of 8000 gallons? (This is where a signature is helpful *cough*cough*) 1/2 gallon of 6 or 10% will raise your FC ~4, which is a standard daily loss. We don't have to be super precise here, just getting some chlorine in there until your test kit comes. :)
 
The pool is roughly 12,500 gallons. 24 ft and about 48-50 inches deep. Attached are some pics.
Pic 1 shows what my test results were from the store 2 days ago (had a 5.86 fc because I had added 2 packs of shock prior to the visit) I added 5lbs of alkaline up, 7 lbs of calcium hardness, 2 pucks right after I got that test done.

Pic 2 shows my test results from a few hours ago (has a 2.34 FC level right now). I’ve been trying to deal with this issue for WEEKS.

Pic 3 and 4 show my old handle that I threw away but you can see the growth on it from where I had left it in the pool.
 

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The pool is roughly 12,500 gallons. 24 ft and about 48-50 inches deep. Attached are some pics.
Pic 1 shows what my test results were from the store 2 days ago (had a 5.86 fc because I had added 2 packs of shock prior to the visit) I added 5lbs of alkaline up, 7 lbs of calcium hardness, 2 pucks right after I got that test done.

Pic 2 shows my test results from a few hours ago (has a 2.34 FC level right now). I’ve been trying to deal with this issue for WEEKS.

Pic 3 and 4 show my old handle that I threw away but you can see the growth on it from where I had left it in the pool.

Also forgot to note that here is a pic of the tablets being used. Using two of them
 

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My bad...thought that was the info for the "sticks:" I'd do my best to hold that FC at 10ppm until your kit arrives.....which is SLAM level for your APPRX. 20 CYA.


Once I get the kit and test and post results. How will these numbers go about helping? Everyone has told me to get the kit, post numbers then help can be had. What exactly will the numbers allow you to know with what to do? If I’m putting the pool at slam levels now, how will new numbers make any difference in dealing with this?
 
Just about all the chemical advice we give around here is based on ACCURATE test results. The test kit will allow us to speak the language from kits we TRUST. Pool store results can vary almost as much as guess stick testing. Read through Pool School and absorb the basics (ABCs), then study the SLAM process till the kit arrives.
 
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Just about all the chemical advice we give around here is based on ACCURATE test results. The test kit will allow us to speak the language from kits we TRUST. Pool store results can vary almost as much as guess stick testing. Read through Pool School and absorb the basics (ABCs), then study the SLAM process till the kit arrives.

Thank you and everyone else who responded. I appreciate the help. One last question for now, my water level is somewhat low from how many times I’ve been vacuuming to waste. Should I go ahead and increase this now? When I mustard slam in the next few days, will I have to vacuum waste on the bottom or will all the algae somehow disappear on its own?
 
Thank you and everyone else who responded. I appreciate the help. One last question for now, my water level is somewhat low from how many times I’ve been vacuuming to waste. Should I go ahead and increase this now? When I mustard slam in the next few days, will I have to vacuum waste on the bottom or will all the algae somehow disappear on its own?

Here’s some pictures, if I should increase it...how far in relation to the screws should I increase it?
 

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Please don't put that pole and vacuum head back into the water. It needs to be cleaned with a strong solution of bleach (if not full strength bleach) of all that algae and scum. It will not help your algae situation at all if you don't get it 100% clean. Maybe even buy a new vacuum head since there's probably algae inside where the weights are. They're cheap, just replace that.

To answer one of your questions, you should not have to replace the sand. Although in some circumstances, replacing may be easier than deep cleaning. Sometimes when pool store potions have been used, they can gum up the sand.

You can fill up your pool as high as will allow the skimmer to work properly.
 
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One person earlier said I should maintain 10 FC until my kit comes. I’m 23 CYA and was at 2.34 FC today at around 1 PM. I added 1 gallon of 10% bleach tonight to my 12,500 gallon pool. So using this calculator for the first time, I calculated that I needed roughly a full gallon to get 7.66 FC to make it 10 total. I added the gallon now how am I supposed to be able to keep it to 10 FC until my test kit comes?
 
Let's wait on calling your CYA level till your kit arrives. At that point, measure it in 10s. If it's testing at what you'd think is 25, we'll call that 30. More on that later... For now don't worry about CYA.

Since that test was done at 1pm ET, it's been 7 hours in the sun and I would imagine your FC level is nowhere near 2.34. It was likely close to 0 when you added the chlorine. Calculate what it would be to get to 3ppm from 0ppm and add that much more now.

Do you have any kind of drop test? An OTO test perhaps? That only goes to 5ppm, but it might be useful to try it and if it shows less than 5ppm you will then know how much to add to get back to 10ppm.
Something like this with yellow FC and red pH:

HTH makes the same kind of test kit, they have it at Walmart.
 

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