I'll start by saying I'm a new pool owner and I've quickly learnt that it's not easy! I'm in Australia, I have a 30,000L fibreglass salt pool with a sand filter. I've had a mustard algae problem for months now and I've been following advice from pool shop...these guys are a bit old school, don't test with a computer and seemed like they're not trying to rip me off etc....they gave me an Algaecide and I followed instructions....having read through this site I can see why this method hasn't really worked! I've seen improvements but it's fat from gone completely. I think I understand the SLAM method, and the three things required to confirm the algae is gone, I must admit the forum and website has been a great help to me, it seems to make sense to me now and I'm really excited after months of frustration and wanting to fill my pool with concrete and walk away. Ive attached a photo to confirm mustard algae (photo is when it was at its worst, I've since got it sparkling for a week but it's back but nowhere near as bad), it's easy to brush and it puffs up into a brown cloud. It's Thursday night and I really want to get started this weekend...I've found a link on here to the home testing kit (I don't have any at the moment) it seems I need to buy online...anyone in Australia on here know any retail outlets that sell them so I can get it quickly? Is there a way I can do it without a home test kit? I hope I've been clear....I'm excited to get started and eradicate this horrible stuff once and for all.
Mustard Algae - New Pool owner
- Thread starter AussieSwimmer
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,745
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum! 
You need the CCL kit to complete a SLAM Process. Once you have that kit, post up your results and we can provide some guidance.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
You need the CCL kit to complete a SLAM Process. Once you have that kit, post up your results and we can provide some guidance.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
Thanks mate, yep I've read through all that, very helpful! Do you think it's mustard?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,745
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- May 3, 2014
- 58,745
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thanks. Yep that's the one I ordered...if I have success with it, I'll buy the complete set. I'll need to trust the pool guy for now with my CYA and PH Levels.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,745
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I've finally got my test kit so I'm ready to get going.......
- Test CYA level
- Test Chlorine levels
- Work out correct SLAM level to aim at
- Add enough chlorine to reach required FC level (How will I know how much to add, once I have the numbers?)
- Brush pool a lot
- Do I keep my SWCG running on filter for the duration of the SLAM?
- Keep testing and adding more chlorine (at least twice a day)
- Repeat until my pool passes the three criteria
Anything I've missed, any further tips?
Cheers
- Test CYA level
- Test Chlorine levels
- Work out correct SLAM level to aim at
- Add enough chlorine to reach required FC level (How will I know how much to add, once I have the numbers?)
- Brush pool a lot
- Do I keep my SWCG running on filter for the duration of the SLAM?
- Keep testing and adding more chlorine (at least twice a day)
- Repeat until my pool passes the three criteria
Anything I've missed, any further tips?
Cheers
- May 3, 2014
- 58,745
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Use PoolMath to determine amounts of liquid chlorine needed to reach SLAM levels.
We recommend turning off the SWCG and running the pump 24 hours a day during a SLAM
At the start, it is best to test and add chlorine every couple hours if possible. Primarily during the daylight hours. After the FC holds better, you can go to 3 or 4 times per day.
We recommend turning off the SWCG and running the pump 24 hours a day during a SLAM
At the start, it is best to test and add chlorine every couple hours if possible. Primarily during the daylight hours. After the FC holds better, you can go to 3 or 4 times per day.
Brad_C
Well-known member
- Nov 15, 2018
- 188
- Pool Size
- 19000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Monarch ESC24 / ESC7000
Wot 'e said ^^^
One tip I found useful is using a 5ml sample of water for the chlorine test. You only use half the amount of drops (1ppm/drop vs 0.5ppm/drop) and you only need a scoop of powder unless you are over ~30ppm. It'll save you a stack of titrant, and frankly when you are looking at 25+ppm chlorine levels and *not* doing an overnight chlorine loss test, you don't really care +/- a ppm here or there.
Using the Clear Choice Labs kit, you can use the sample line on the CYA cylinder for the chlorine test if you don't have another accurate way of measuring 5ml (I use a pipette).
I can't quite get my head around just *how* much chlorine I got through in a 3 day "SLAM" (~15L). Elevated levels burn off quite quickly in the Aussie summer sun.
One tip I found useful is using a 5ml sample of water for the chlorine test. You only use half the amount of drops (1ppm/drop vs 0.5ppm/drop) and you only need a scoop of powder unless you are over ~30ppm. It'll save you a stack of titrant, and frankly when you are looking at 25+ppm chlorine levels and *not* doing an overnight chlorine loss test, you don't really care +/- a ppm here or there.
Using the Clear Choice Labs kit, you can use the sample line on the CYA cylinder for the chlorine test if you don't have another accurate way of measuring 5ml (I use a pipette).
I can't quite get my head around just *how* much chlorine I got through in a 3 day "SLAM" (~15L). Elevated levels burn off quite quickly in the Aussie summer sun.
Thanks mate, I was a bit worried I'd run out of stuff given the high FC level hence lots of drops (pardon the simple language I'm very new at this)...be easier if I could buy in a shop somewhere rather than waiting 4 days for delivery...know of any shops that sell the powder/drops?
I have a syringe to use toddler panadol, I could use that to accurately measure 5mL
Brad_C
Well-known member
- Nov 15, 2018
- 188
- Pool Size
- 19000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Monarch ESC24 / ESC7000
No I don't. Why not order some refills now? They'll get to you by the time you need them.
In theory there is 1000 drops in the bottle and enough powder for ~100 tests. Even if you go a bit heavy on the powder (like I do) you won't get through that in a week.
Yep, that'd do it. Try measuring out into the CYA test tube just to double check the volume is right.
So my current levels
FC 9
TC 12
CC 3
PH 8.4
CYA 66
TA 200
First thing is to reduce PH...can someone explain these numbers to me, they not what I expected....
FC 9
TC 12
CC 3
PH 8.4
CYA 66
TA 200
First thing is to reduce PH...can someone explain these numbers to me, they not what I expected....
Brad_C
Well-known member
- Nov 15, 2018
- 188
- Pool Size
- 19000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Monarch ESC24 / ESC7000
I'd have thought the high TA would be contributing to your pH.
I'd start by getting the pH back down to 7-7.2 before you commence a "SLAM". The TA is something you might want to address also. My pool store kept telling me my TA was low and having me add bicarb. My wife blindly followed their instruction one day and the TA ended up > 190.With that TA I was adding acid every 2 days to keep the pH ~7.5.
Then I discovered this forum and bought a decent test kit. I spent 10 hours with an aerator and 6L of acid to get it back down to ~60. Haven't had an issue since then. I add a small dose of acid maybe once a fortnight.
Having said that, when I put high liquid chlorine doses in, my pH skyrockets due to the relatively high CYA (mine is 70), so you'll want to make sure you start with a low pH before you hit the Algae.
I've never seen a CC reading, by that might be helped with the salt water chlorinator.
Out of interest and not so important, have you done a CH test?
I'd start by getting the pH back down to 7-7.2 before you commence a "SLAM". The TA is something you might want to address also. My pool store kept telling me my TA was low and having me add bicarb. My wife blindly followed their instruction one day and the TA ended up > 190.With that TA I was adding acid every 2 days to keep the pH ~7.5.
Then I discovered this forum and bought a decent test kit. I spent 10 hours with an aerator and 6L of acid to get it back down to ~60. Haven't had an issue since then. I add a small dose of acid maybe once a fortnight.
Having said that, when I put high liquid chlorine doses in, my pH skyrockets due to the relatively high CYA (mine is 70), so you'll want to make sure you start with a low pH before you hit the Algae.
I've never seen a CC reading, by that might be helped with the salt water chlorinator.
Out of interest and not so important, have you done a CH test?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,745
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Any chance you can add a signature and put in there what test kit you are using?
With a CC of 3 you have issues. You are not at SLAM levels FC. With a CYA of 70 your FC should be 28 ppm.
pH is not an accurate test with FC above 10 ppm if using a normal drop based test.
With a CC of 3 you have issues. You are not at SLAM levels FC. With a CYA of 70 your FC should be 28 ppm.
pH is not an accurate test with FC above 10 ppm if using a normal drop based test.
At the moment I've only got the CCL chlorine test kit (couldn't afford the full kit right now) so I got water tested at pool shop, who uses the same if not very similar kit (I watch them do it) ...I did my own chlorine test and it matched the pool shops results. I added some acid to try get PH down. Shall I commence SLAM?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,745
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40