Murphy Texas IG Pool

[joshuadfeldman]

Lace,

lueders limestone colors....I believe they dig it out of the ground in Southern Texas, it comes in many colors. It was mostly cut before it arrived on site house. The stone company must have a way to Auto CAD the rock based on the plans.

 

[ShantellyLace]

Wow its nice! We are still trying to decide on coping for spa, fire pit, and raised wall. My biggest issue is I want bigger sections with the least amount of grout lines and a decent thickness. I am not stuck on material. Even poured concrete would be fine but not sure of cost. I really like how your coping looks. Will mention material to my PB. Ty!

 

[djohnson822]

ShantellyLace, I had the same concerns as you with the coping grout lines. That's one reason why we didn't go with the flagstone. We are going to use a poured concrete coping, hopefully around 3" thick and with 24" or larger grout lines. The cost was similar to travertine, $15-17 per foot. I'll show you when it's finished!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ShantellyLace]

Thanks! We haven't even broken ground yet so still have time to decide. Poor PB...the longer we take to get started, the more changes I come up with lol

 

[joshuadfeldman]

The coping? Lueders Limestone...several colors on the market in Texas. It was pre cut when it arrived a few weeks back. I bet that have an Auto Cad cutting system.


Today was more decking.. The crew started to sand it and realized that I needed to sign off. Of course they didn't have pavers to replace the ones that were obvious. I told them some of the pavers were bad and that they needed to be replaced. After a few polite laps of the guys trying to get me to approve sanding it, I took a step back. I told them the PB is your final approval and left it with them.


I sent the PB a pic showing the pavers flush with the door threshold. It's a water risk for storms in my opinion. The paver guy tried to convince me that the grade would make it alright. Then communication broke down and I told them to work it out with the PB. I discussed this with the PB before the sand foundation was prepared a few days back. It was also discussed during the sales process. The ideal solution was to cut the pavers in half to thin them out for the patio foundation.

Later...After speaking with the Epic Pavers supervisor, we found out the pavers were cut so they could sit lower on the patio vs the door. They felt if they cut them thinner it was at risk of cracking. They really should have had me look at it before they continued but here we are. I like the way it looks and might ask the PB to give me a 5 year $700 budget Warranty for the door and door frame in case of water problems. The director of construction will get back to me. It's a communication error between PB and contractor vs expectation during the sales process.



Here are a few pictures of the deck un-sanded. Someone is coming by later to replace the chipped pavers. The PB sent me some photos of the pavers at the office that were sanded. I won't have to replace as many as I thought. The sand will pull it all together.



This is first time I have felt the stress. I just have too much to do with work and can't be the supers, super; but that's part of the deal.

 

[IXFE]

Awesome build! I'm in the sales process with Riverbend & Sander as I type this message. It's reassuring to hear how pleased you are with them.

Couple of questions... (if you'd rather answer via PM, I understand)

1) How much did they charge you for the pavers (per sq. ft.)...?

2) What kind of sand are they using to fill the gaps. Is it the kind that hardens? Did it look look like this stuff...?

 

[joshuadfeldman]

PolyMetric Sand

I think they charged $12 per square foot. Cement was $7 and Travertine was $15-17.....I'm really not 100% on that.

Awesome build! I'm in the sales process with Riverbend & Sander as I type this message. It's reassuring to hear how pleased you are with them.

Couple of questions... (if you'd rather answer via PM, I understand)

1) How much did they charge you for the pavers (per sq. ft.)...?

2) What kind of sand are they using to fill the gaps. Is it the kind that hardens? Did it look look like this stuff...?

 

[kimkats]

Good for you for not signing off. The work is done enough with some needing to be replaced. Sorry guys but........no is a complete sentence as NO you may not sand!

The stones by the door. I would take a long level out there and make sure there is a good grade away from the door. If not they need to remove all of that area and regrade BEFORE they put the stone back. The door warranty is only a stop gap. You need a long term solution to keep it from happening over and over.

Kim

 

[ShantellyLace]

Wow I can't believe they put the pavers dead level with the threshold. I can't imagine that would pass inspection?? Even with a good grade, that still has too much of an ease of access for water to enter the home. We are having pavers placed over existing concrete on our patio and they are using the 1" remodel pavers for that area so they all match but fit under our doors and trim. Polymeric sand is a great idea (what we are getting as well) and I think you'll be very happy once they can get to that point (and fix what needs to be fixed! I would have been frustrated with that convo). Coming along nicely!

 

[joshuadfeldman]

The contractor did show me the grade via bubble level.

You are right about it being a stop gap. Let's see what they come up with....haven't been disappointed yet.

Good for you for not signing off. The work is done enough with some needing to be replaced. Sorry guys but........no is a complete sentence as NO you may not sand!

The stones by the door. I would take a long level out there and make sure there is a good grade away from the door. If not they need to remove all of that area and regrade BEFORE they put the stone back. The door warranty is only a stop gap. You need a long term solution to keep it from happening over and over.

Kim

 

[joshuadfeldman]

Yesterday they cleaned up the cement shell, brought in some clean dirt and graded around the yard.




This morning they moved the Jacuzzi out of the garage and onto the pad. Placed the drain caps in the yard, deck and skimmers (brass).







The director of construction, the super and the paver manager met at the house at 9 am sharp. The director saw my concern and said the pavers meeting the threshold will not be a long term concern and will be under warranty. The solution since the profile of the pavers is high will be to place a plastic membrane between the pavers and the cement hardy board along the entire patio. The paver company was more than happy to do it based on the PB explanation of the risk. This will protect the moister barrier and wood frame footers from being exposed to a massive water surge, either from weather or hose shenanigans.

Electricians will come by next. Then the fence goes back up. Then the sprinkler/landscaper. Then the plaster. Then startup.

 

[kimkats]

That spa looks awesome there! LOVE the steps leading up to it and the wall is neat!

So how will the membrane keep water out of the house through the door (under it)? I do like the idea of where it meets the walls but........still worry about the door.

Kim

 

[joanniern]

Good for you for not signing off. The work is done enough with some needing to be replaced. Sorry guys but........no is a complete sentence as NO you may not sand!

The stones by the door. I would take a long level out there and make sure there is a good grade away from the door. If not they need to remove all of that area and regrade BEFORE they put the stone back. The door warranty is only a stop gap. You need a long term solution to keep it from happening over and over.

Kim

I agree here with Kim. In California you have to be 2" below the weepscreed in order to final. We had to remove about 10 yards of concrete and replace because the previous owners had poured the rv parking too high.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[joshuadfeldman]

I hear you... so let me flip the script.

The PB was more worried about the wall being protected for 20 years because a door can be replaced and I have travertine on the other side, not wood. Weak...but I didn't have anything to add in the moment.

I can't change the patio cement because it is part of the original roof line foundation. We can't thin the pavers more then they have been. The door threshold can't be raised. The only solution would be to remove the pavers from the patio and leave it naked or stamp it.

What would you do?

 

[joanniern]

I hear you... so let me flip the script.

The PB was more worried about the wall being protected for 20 years because a door can be replaced and I have travertine on the other side, not wood. Weak...but I didn't have anything to add in the moment.

I can't change the patio cement because it is part of the original roof line foundation. We can't thin the pavers more then they have been. The door threshold can't be raised. The only solution would be to remove the pavers from the patio and leave it naked or stamp it.

What would you do?

Here's where I see the problem: brick and stucco are porous they allow water in. As water hits the wall it hits the paper and drops down onto the weep screed it then weeps the moisture onto the ground below and keeps that water from entering the interior walls and causing moisture problems. If there isn't adequate clearance then the moisture will not wick away from the building and will go into the interior walls and over time cause mold, mildew and water damage. It will also cause the mortar behind your bricks to wear down or if by stucco your stucco to pop off.

Just because the patio was part of the original construction pour does not mean it is structural and can't be cut or changed. Unless you have a tension slab - then you wouldn't want to cut in to that. Maybe you need to revisit this area if you want pavers everywhere.

The easiest solution would be to not put pavers. If you try and sell your house down the road a good home inspector will point out the lack of clearance at that point too and it may cause an issue then. If you don't sell and stay in your house for 10 -20 years you're going to be doing water damage repairs at some point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[joanniern]

Yesterday they cleaned up the cement shell, brought in some clean dirt and graded around the yard.

View attachment 56794
View attachment 56797

This morning they moved the Jacuzzi out of the garage and onto the pad. Placed the drain caps in the yard, deck and skimmers (brass).

View attachment 56795

View attachment 56796

View attachment 56798

The director of construction, the super and the paver manager met at the house at 9 am sharp. The director saw my concern and said the pavers meeting the threshold will not be a long term concern and will be under warranty. The solution since the profile of the pavers is high will be to place a plastic membrane between the pavers and the cement hardy board along the entire patio. The paver company was more than happy to do it based on the PB explanation of the risk. This will protect the moister barrier and wood frame footers from being exposed to a massive water surge, either from weather or hose shenanigans.

Electricians will come by next. Then the fence goes back up. Then the sprinkler/landscaper. Then the plaster. Then startup.

This may work...as long as the slope away from the house is adequate. But it would not fly during any building inspection where I live


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[joshuadfeldman]

It looks like a brick ledge is under the metal threshold of the door.....This is good because I feared it was a wood footer. The brick ledge is a 1 inch difference between the living area cement and the cement where the bricks are laid. It creates and elevation for moister/water fall away from the house. Adequate slope is toward the deck drain and he proved it with a very long bubble level.





Poly Metric sand was laid down and then watered in. They also replaced and cut the new pavers that needed attention. Didn't have to point anything out they just knew what to do.

 

[joanniern]

It looks like a brick ledge is under the metal threshold of the door.....This is good because I feared it was a wood footer. The brick ledge is a 1 inch difference between the living area cement and the cement where the bricks are laid. It creates and elevation for moister/water fall away from the house. Adequate slope is toward the deck drain and he proved it with a very long bubble level.

View attachment 56814

View attachment 56815

Poly Metric sand was laid down and then watered in. They also replaced and cut the new pavers that needed attention. Didn't have to point anything out they just knew what to do.

View attachment 56816

The only sure way of proving adequate slope is with a transit. A bubble level can tell you there is a slope but it can't tell you at what percent. You can "guesstimate" but it's not exact. Either way the pavers should not be level with the threshold or cover the weep screed. The space helps the water drop away from the building envelope. If there is something touching the building envelope that is porous it will act like a wick. The clearance provides a brake point so that the water drops away and sheds. If there is no brake there is always the possibility that it will wick back into the structure because the dryer interior wall will pull water towards it. I hope the plastic is enough but only time will tell.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kimkats]

I love they took care of the "bad" ones without you having to point anything out. The sand really does make a difference to give it a finished look.

I like the fact there is something under the blocks. I would just keep an eye on things and see what happens when it rains and go from there. It does seem as if they are trying to make it good.

Kim

 

[BigEinAZ]

The Hardieplank will wick moisture off the pavers and dissolve over time. I have four inches between my Hardie and paver patio and just having snow pile up over a span of twenty winters has begun to degrade the bottom course. Direct or negative contact as in your case will accelerate the decay.