I'm on this. I'll report back when I see a CYA # - I fear it will be ugly. 
THANKS!
THANKS!
Most construction complete :)
- Thread starter spamble11
- Start date
CYA was 98. Free chlorine was low .4 and total high 4.1 (3.7 combined). pH was 7.8. I put in 2.5 lbs of SLO n lo in and 4 bags of shock (oxysheen). Gonna run it a bit and retest. Phosphate 760. Total alkalinity 115. Calcium hardness 195. Saturation index normal.
JoeSelf
Gold Supporter
Just for others that go thru this, they do make DuctSox with stiffeners that keep it round all the time.
How's the inflation at AHU startup?
How's the inflation at AHU startup?
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I could keep the fan running to keep it inflated but I don’t want that. I went with fabric because it will never rot and I can take it down and wash it whenever I want.
It pressurizes down stream and then there is a boom. It’s pretty cool.
It pressurizes down stream and then there is a boom. It’s pretty cool.
I have some bad news for you. The oxysheen is not what you needed to use to clean up that high CC. You needed to use liquid chlorine to kill what is in the water causing the high CC.
Here is what I found on the oxysheen:
"Potassium monopersulfate is not a sanitizer or algaecide and must be used in conjunction with an EPA-registered sanitizer. The role of monopersulfate is to provide effective non-chlorine oxidation — in other words, to react with organic contaminants and maintain or restore water clarity."
Notice where is says it is NOT a sanitizer
With your CYA so high you really need to drain some of your water as that is the only way to lower CYA. Use pool math to see how much it says to remove and replace to get your CYA down to 30.
Here is what I found on the oxysheen:
"Potassium monopersulfate is not a sanitizer or algaecide and must be used in conjunction with an EPA-registered sanitizer. The role of monopersulfate is to provide effective non-chlorine oxidation — in other words, to react with organic contaminants and maintain or restore water clarity."
Notice where is says it is NOT a sanitizer
With your CYA so high you really need to drain some of your water as that is the only way to lower CYA. Use pool math to see how much it says to remove and replace to get your CYA down to 30.
Deb Driesen
Well-known member
What dehumidifier air handling system did you put in?I remodeled my natatorium starting on 12/12/20. It's been a long and costly road so I thought I would share some pics.View attachment 319003View attachment 319004View attachment 319005
View attachment 319006View attachment 319007View attachment 319008
I love your remodel, so much lighter and brighter! How are you heating the pool? We are waiting for work to start on our pool project, which will be an enclosed pool. So far we are planning on a gas heater but considering either solar or a heat pump in addition as I want to use it year round.
I heat the water with a natural gas heater. It was new when we moved in so we’ve left it. If I could do it from scratch I would do a heat
Pump and maybe a supplement. I have
Solar panels so we went with electric heat on our dehumidifier.
Cya test was 50. I did it twice. Pool store said 98. I even tried a few strips and it was in the ideal range. I’ll check it again in a bit. Right now I’m not sure I’m gonna change anything. Free chlorine is down so I’ll watch that. Maybe a switch to liquid chlorine is all I need.
Don't even bother with the Pool Store testing. Go with your test and your eyes from now on. You will find doing the test under different light and conditions the number may change. If you use only your eyes and test in the same lighting then it is all good. (Oh how I hate this test but it is all we have so..........). Call it 50 and move on. Don't use any tablets or powder chlorine from now on so the CYA does not go up. Using liquid chlorine from now on is a solid plan!
Kim
Kim
Thanks! I’ve got to get to the math part now to sort out how much chlorine I need and when. 
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