Sorry; I'm reading as much as I can but some of this is still confusing to me and I guess I misunderstood the 20-30 CHL comment. Does this mean add chlorine to get to 31 FC? To be honest I understand that SLAM stands for Shock Level And Maintain but I guess I don't grasp how that really works. Does that mean to hit 31 FC and maintain it there at 31? From what I understand I need to get to target range of 9-11 FC before I purge. I need to read more about what SLAM really means, I guess.
More difficult than I expected. (noob here)
- Thread starter In Hot Water
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,017
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
For owners who are going to do a SLAM Process, yes, that what it means. With a CYA of 80, the SLAM FC level is "31". Previous posts indicate you were unsure whether to SLAM now since you're going out of town next week. I believe you also need to do a thorough purge. In a perfect (timing) scenario, it would be ideal to do the purge & dump first which will remove the questionable water and save chemicals from a SLAM. Then when you refill you could start fresh with balancing and avoid a SLAM. But if timing is against you right now and need to leave the water as-is, you can maintain a higher FC level until you get back.
Thanks. I'll think on it tonight and either purge or start a SLAM tomorrow morning.
Well, I decided to go ahead and purge/refill. I followed the instructions with the ahhsome. There was a little bit of brown/mustardy gunk but honestly not that much. I scooped it off the top and let the stuff run its course.
Just drained it with a submersible pump and wiped down the inside.
Refilling now. Should I do a full test of all the water after it fills before adding anything? And then should I get my TA to ~80 before testing for FC and adding dichlor?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,017
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That's always best. Once you confirm your new fresh-fill numbers, start adjusting. There's no need to hold on adjusting other chemicals such as FC/CYA, or CH. Many can be done simultaneously except for chlorine and muriatic acid. Keep those separated by a a few minutes. Below is from the Spa Sticky.
Water Balance
If your CH is much below 100 ppm, raise it to ~150 ppm. Otherwise, make a note of it.
Adjust your TA to ~50 ppm. Use Baking Soda to raise it (unlikely to be needed), or Acid/Aeration method to lower it. It takes ~8 oz Dry Acid to lower TA by 100 ppm in a 350 Gal Tub. Don't add it all at once!
pH should be between 7.2-7.8. Aerate to Raise pH. Acid to lower it.
If pH creeps up too much (>8.0), lower TA. If pH is too low, and doesn't raise enough by aeration, raise TA.
Add ~50 ppm Borate. (Borox/Acid or Gentle Spa)
Calcium, Baking Soda, Dry Acid and Borates is all you need to balance your water.
Use PoolMath to calculate exact amounts to add.
Sanitation
On a fresh fill use Dichlor until you get to 20-30 ppm CYA. (10 ppm FC = 9 ppm CYA)
Then switch to plain bleach or liquid chlorine.
Never let FC drop to Zero for any length of time. Keep it between 3-6 ppm normally, min of 1 ppm, and shock to 12 ppm once a week.
Use MPS if needed before hot tub party's and/or once a week to help oxidation. Don't use more than needed, because it's acidic and may lower your TA/pH.
Dichlor, Bleach and MPS is all you need to keep your tub sanitized.
Use PoolMath to calculate exact amounts to add.
Okay. Tested TA and it’s at 110. pH is 7.4. Pool math says to lower pH to 7.0-7.2 and then aerate to raise it. Is there a way to know how much dry acid (and I’m assuming the pH down is the stuff I use)?
I’m sorry I’m so full of questions. I figured out the pH down.
I swear I saw on here to get the TA to ~80. But that link you sent says 50. Also I don’t think I have borates. I have some products that came with the spa but it looks like I have ph Up, ph Down (dry acid), Cal, EZ Boost (dichlor) and something called Total Care.
Should I add chlorine tonight or should I go find borates tomorrow morning before continuing?
I swear I saw on here to get the TA to ~80. But that link you sent says 50. Also I don’t think I have borates. I have some products that came with the spa but it looks like I have ph Up, ph Down (dry acid), Cal, EZ Boost (dichlor) and something called Total Care.
Should I add chlorine tonight or should I go find borates tomorrow morning before continuing?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,002
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Chlorine is king! Add chlorine now.
Keep adequate fc in the tub at all times or you’ll be back where you started. Nasties proliferate rapidly in a spa.
Manage ph with acid (reducing it to 7.2 once it rises to 8.0) & the ta will fall each time you do this. Hitting a specific Ta is not as important as managing fc & ph. It will come down eventually. Work on lowering ta with the acid/aeration dance when you have time.
Keep adequate fc in the tub at all times or you’ll be back where you started. Nasties proliferate rapidly in a spa.
Manage ph with acid (reducing it to 7.2 once it rises to 8.0) & the ta will fall each time you do this. Hitting a specific Ta is not as important as managing fc & ph. It will come down eventually. Work on lowering ta with the acid/aeration dance when you have time.
JoeSelf
Gold Supporter
If you add the borates before you find the TA that has your PH in the sweet spot, will make it more difficult to lower TA afterwards. Only add borates after your PH settles down.
I'd don't use borates, my PH is rather stable, but I use AquaClarity weekly. It's from the makers of Ahhsome!
I'd don't use borates, my PH is rather stable, but I use AquaClarity weekly. It's from the makers of Ahhsome!
Thanks everyone. I tested again this morning. TA was at 80. pH at 7.4. FC I thought was at 1, but after I added the .2 oz that Poolmath recommended and came back inside the water had turned back to pink (Taylor K2006 kit) so maybe my FC was higher than 1?
Mercuric acid works more to your advantage than dry acid. Also note for future reference you do bring fc to slam levwl during the purge to make sure what you dislodge isn't going to harm you should you come in contact with it. (No need to maintain)
Definitely reread the sticky if you are still unsure of the relationship between fc and cya, you cannot successfully maintain sanitation (safety!) without adhering to it.
When you have someone in that oversized bathtub at 100 degrees or higher they sweat, skin flakes off, etc. You immediately start increasing chl demand. Typically I see up to 5 ppm demand per bather-hour, and add accordingly. Usually adding chl can wait until we get out because we have a reserve (chl is at the high end of recommend range and its two of us for 15 minutes), but some people add chl during an extended soak.
Just keep in mind that chart shows a minimum need, and going below it at ANY time probably puts you right back at where your troubles started. A hot tub is not a maintenance free afair...
Again, you can "measure" cya by how much dichlor you add, doing the math or using Poolmath.
If the tub has an ozone generator that also uses up a little chl during the filter cycles. My typical daily demand is about 2 ppm without getting in.
The sticky is worth a reread, and there are lots of decent articles in the pool school section. However, there's a lot that can be learned from reading threads in this forum, as well as testing and balancing your water, and the deep end. Just concentrate on the basics first, you will get the hang of it more quickly than you think
Definitely reread the sticky if you are still unsure of the relationship between fc and cya, you cannot successfully maintain sanitation (safety!) without adhering to it.
When you have someone in that oversized bathtub at 100 degrees or higher they sweat, skin flakes off, etc. You immediately start increasing chl demand. Typically I see up to 5 ppm demand per bather-hour, and add accordingly. Usually adding chl can wait until we get out because we have a reserve (chl is at the high end of recommend range and its two of us for 15 minutes), but some people add chl during an extended soak.
Just keep in mind that chart shows a minimum need, and going below it at ANY time probably puts you right back at where your troubles started. A hot tub is not a maintenance free afair...
Again, you can "measure" cya by how much dichlor you add, doing the math or using Poolmath.
If the tub has an ozone generator that also uses up a little chl during the filter cycles. My typical daily demand is about 2 ppm without getting in.
The sticky is worth a reread, and there are lots of decent articles in the pool school section. However, there's a lot that can be learned from reading threads in this forum, as well as testing and balancing your water, and the deep end. Just concentrate on the basics first, you will get the hang of it more quickly than you think
Always shoot for the high end of the recommend range so losses never bring it below the minimum. Is it ok to find it below that high end, yes, but at first it's best to develop a feel for where you expect it to read. A better safe than sorry situation...
Too much chl won't harm you or hurt anything as long as sits below slam level, too little is just plain unacceptable.
Borates are optional. They do help with the whole TA/pH dance and they supposedly make the water feel and look better (very subjective). I had them in my pool (and liked them) but they have since dropped too low from dilution to have any real effect anymore. I may add them again this year. If I do, I think I will add some to the hot ub too.
Borates are not easy to find from a pool chemical perspective. Stores don't sell "BorateUp". You can use Borax, but you have to then counter the effect on pH by using acid, not too bad in a pool, but you are already fighting pH rise from aeration in a hot tub.
You can add Boric Acid and that will just add Borates. Some people use roach killer (it is mostly Boric Acid) but you never know what else is in there, such as attractants, anti-caking agents, colorants, etc. Not the best thing to add to your hot tub. Duda Diesel - DudaDiesel - Biodiesel, Chemical & Solar Supplies, Alternative Energy Store sells pure boric acid as does Bulk Apothecary - Quality Essential Oils, Soap Making Supplies & More | Essential Oils Supplier Bulk Apothecary
You don't need much of it for a hot tub
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,002
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If the sample is allowed to sit it will turn pink again- do your tests, log your results, & dump the sample.
Thanks everyone. Just an update a few weeks later. I never did add any borates but my pH is consistently 7.4, the CYA is 30 and I add just a small splash of 10% chlorine every day and then a bit more after we use it. Last night when we were going to get in my wife even remarked how clear and sparkly the water looked. I think I'll hold off on adding borates since they seem to be hard to find and also my dog is an idiot and I don't want to make him sick if he eats a swimsuit or something.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,002
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Marvelous
just Use a little dichlor now & then to keep your cya in line - I use a little every week or so. The hotter you run the tub the faster cya degrades.
Happy hot tubbing
!