Mineral Springs r1.4 HI salt

[NYkidney]

I've search through the threads, so I apologize in advance if my answer is out there and I missed it.
I just opened the pool yesterday, and used bleach per my normal opening routine. Just went to turn on the SWG, mainly to ensure it's working ok. After a minute to read flow, it quickly indicated Hi Minerals and stopped generation. It's reading 6100.
I tested my salt yesterday upon opening, with a K-1766, and it was 2200. With 15,500 gallons in the pool, I added 80 lbs. I usually like to get to target levels in steps, just in case. This morning it tested at 2600 - a little lower than I expected.
The water temp is 59F right now.
My bigger concern is the SWG. I have a CompuPool replacement cell, and I'm not sure how old it is. This will be my third season with the house & pool, and it's been here since before I bought.
Any ideas on why it would read so high?

 

[Texas Splash]

Any ideas on why it would read so high?

Personally I do not, but I don't own or have experience with that model. But your post from Sunday certainly needs more eyes on it. Normally we focus on the salt reading on our SWGs, so to see an error for minerals is a bit interesting. If you are still working this problem, let us know and certainly post back as much as you need to for views and replies.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Following this thread with interest. AFAIK, some Mineral Springs model is interchangeable with the Aquarite (GLX-PCB-RITE) mainboard. I am aware of your older thread here >
Older SWG replacement cell - version compatibility
It is very unusual for the properly configured salt cell type to read high salt than the actual. I'll take it, your K-1766 is fresh. For reference, I just replaced my T-15 cell with a Jacuzzi Salt Cell JSC40H and it worked. I'm inclined to give CompuPool GRC40GH a try the next time around.
Anyway, can you post the diagnostics?
Run the pump, move the switch to Auto. Run the diagnostic 10 seconds after the "Generating Sanitizer" LED comes on. Bear in mind, you have exactly 50 secs to run the diagnostics before the fault condition, if any!
Should you decide to replace the mainboard, this GLX-PCB-RITE r1.59 with DSP bd is your best choice. Take note, I am not affiliated with the seller in anyway but just trying to help.

 

[NYkidney]

Thank you for the info. When I get home, I'll run the diagnostics for you. But I can tell you that in the past few days, the salt reading on the SWG has come down, and it started working within a day of my last post. I checked the instant level and it was quite a bit lower than the main reading, so I toggled to Sanitizer Boost to reset. that did the trick. Note that I checked the instant level previously, at the time of my first post, and it was reading 6100 as well. It's at about 3400 now, and seems to have plateaued out. I've checked with my K-1766 several times, and it's consistently 2800, maybe 3000 once. The kit is from last year, but I store it in a dry place in the mid 50's all winter. I assume it's still good. The other diagnostics have been "normal" for me. around 24-25V, and around 5-6A when generating chlorine. The rest is AL-2, and r1.4. The water temp is maybe a degree or two higher than what I'm reading with a more accurate probe in the pool.
I cannot guess why the reading was so high initially. But since it was the first reading, I'm assuming that as it averaged it over time, it came down. I've read that they tend to read lower than actual when there's a problem, so I'll take this as a sign that there's still life left in the cell. It's been holding my FC level pretty well.