Mineral Springs MS-11, only green power light on

[Tkinser]

Hi, I’m having issues with my mineral springs salt system. The only light on is the green light showing it has power. The other lights do not come on at any time. I noticed that the display board was set to AL 5. Reading the posts I knew I needed it to be at AL2 for mineral springs. I tried changing the setting by moving from auto to super chlorinate but would not change. I initially replaced the display board thinking it was bad. I then replaced the thermistor on control board, no go. I then replaced the control board. Now with new control board and display board it has AL 7. I was unsuccessful at changing it to AL2. Any help would be appreciated.

I did replace the T cell two years ago.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Where did you get the new control board? AL-7 indicates it is an Aquatrol board and the setting cannot be changed.

Show us pics of your old and new board.

Mineral Springs SWG is just a rebranded Hayward Aquarite.

AquaRite, Naturesoft, Mineral Springs and Smartpure are essentially the same unit with different branding. Hayward does private labels for certain companies. Al-0 to al-3 are basically equivalent other than a superficial name change. AL-4 is not about the name, it just changes the default display. AL-5 needs to be selected for the Jandy automation to control the unit properly.

Sometimes an AquaRite will get stuck on AL-6 or AL-7 with no way to switch back and sometimes an Aquatrol will get switched to AL-0 through AL-5 with no (known) way to switch back.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Lets see if @JamesW has any ideas.

 

[JamesW]

What is the part number for the board that you bought?

Part number “GLX-PCB-TROL-RJ” is the Main PCB for the AquaTrol RJ

Part number “GLX-PCB-TROL-HP” is the Main PCB for the AquaTrol HP

Part number “GLX-PCB-RITE” is the Main PCB for the Aqua Rite.

The regular Aquatrol HP uses a flow switch.

The RJ (Return Jet) model doesn't use a flow switch.

The model number and serial number should be inside the door.

In diagnostics, AL-6 means regular Aquatrol, AL-7 means return jet.

 

[Tkinser]

Yeah..it’s the GLX-PCB-TROL-RJ. I got the wrong one.
I have attached pics of the two original boards, the new boards installed, the box of the new control board and the inside cover.
Thank you for the help..

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

The GLX-PCB-RITE pcb would be a good choice. You'll have an option to select either 120 or 240 VAC.
Try to return the TROL pcb in exchange for the RITE. If it is not possible, then be prepared to mod the TROL to work for you.

 

[Tkinser]

The GLX-PCB-RITE pcb would be a good choice. You'll have an option to select either 120 or 240 VAC.
Try to return the TROL pcb in exchange for the RITE. If it is not possible, then be prepared to mod the TROL to work for you.

Thanks..I have already ordered the RITE and have started the return process for the TROL.
Thanks everybody for the help!

 

[Tkinser]

Hi, I replaced the board with the new RITE board. When it powers up I get the red flashing no flow light. It eventually goes off but no other light is on the display board, not even green power light. I did have to rewire the 120v input wires. The old board had tabs and the new had terminal screws. I attached a pic to confirm it is correct. I also made sure the new board was set to T15 cell and was set for mineral springs AL2
Any ideas? I don’t think it is generating chlorine with no lights on.

 

[JamesW]

You need to change the jumpers to 115 volts.

 

[JamesW]

See the two jumpers in the center?

Take them off and reinstall them like the bottom picture but put the angle part down so that it is easier to connect the wires.

 

[JamesW]

 

[Tkinser]

Thanks everybody!! This is a great forum!! I will move the jumpers around tomorrow. Thank you again.

 

[JamesW]

Most likely, if you check the readings, you will see that the voltage is 15 instead of 30 due to the jumper setting.

15 is enough to make the display work but not enough for the cell.

Once you change the jumpers, the voltage should show about 30 to 31 volts before the cell turns on.