Meghan’s Pool Closing Thread

[Meghanfoss]

So…I officially have a trouble free pool thanks to this forum. The only thing I’m doing weekly is keeping pH and TA in check. That’s it! Haven’t bought anything other than MA in over a month and it feels so liberating. So now what?! I’ve found myself bored which is a good problem to have!

I’m tinkering with the idea of closing our pool by myself this year but I’m extremely intimidated. I’ve read many posts on the forum re: closing and the questions I have about my specific pool and equipment are piling up the more I read. I feel super confident in my understanding of my water chemistry now but pool equipment is still pretty scary.

So I’m starting this thread to keep a home for my questions and hopefully (with your help) I’ll be prepared come this fall!

Questions to come…

 

[Texas Splash]

With a few basic tips & tools, you can certainly close the pool yourself. You would do this thread some good by first posting several pics of your pool and equipment pad from various angles. It will help tremendously when discussing your closing options.

 

[Newdude]

The only aspect of closing that is a bit tricky is blowing out the lines. I often suggest paying for the service the first year and tell them that you will be watching to learn your system. The workers get $20 each as you tell them, and they'll either happily deal with you shadowing them, or even go out of their way to teach you.

Either way, take a boatload of pics at every step so you can repeat it, in order, next year. In the spring you watch the pics in reverse to open the pool, also saving that cost.

 

[Meghanfoss]

Photo dump incoming! I’m going to try and keep it as organized as possible. Please let me know if there are any gaps. I’ll indicate when I’ve uploaded my last post of photos.

 

[Meghanfoss]

Here is the pool! Details are in my signature. It has 2 skimmers, 3 floor returns, 3 wall returns, 2 main drains (?? I think), and a cleaner line my Polaris hooks into.

Pool


Floor returns and drains



Wall returns / cleaner line

 

[Meghanfoss]

Equipment is also detailed in my signature.

System view as a whole



Suction side




Heater / Return side

 

[Meghanfoss]

This should be the last bit of info…just no picture.

We have a solid cover with the grommet hook things that you pop out so the springs/hooks on the cover can be secured to it.

That’s the basic gist of my setup!!

Things I have so far are 0.5HP submersible pump and long enough hose to reach a sewer for draining. Would still need to purchase something to assist with blowing out the lines. As well as maybe a dummy cell? I can’t remember if that was in place when it was closed last year honestly.

 

[wireform]

That's an easy pool to close once you know the steps to take but not before you clearly and patiently mark all the pipes coming and going. Spend time and make sure what every valve controls, the rest is cake.

 

[Meghanfoss]

That's an easy pool to close once you know the steps to take but not before you clearly and patiently mark all the pipes coming and going. Spend time and make sure what every valve controls, the rest is cake.

They are marked! I think most at least. Let me get some up close pics.

 

[Meghanfoss]

Valve labels:

 

[Meghanfoss]

Pool closing preliminary questions. Something worth noting, most of my questions are based off of the pool closing post in pool school - user is based in Maryland as well which was super helpful.

Algaecide: Is this product sufficient for the polyquat60?

Kem-Tek KTK-50-0006 Pool and Spa 60-Percent Concentrated Algaecide, 1 Quart https://a.co/d/dp1qCDv

Draining: I have a 0.5HP submersible pump and a 100 ft garden hose to reach the sewer between me and my neighbor. Is this a sufficient horsepower?

Based on my photos above, will i be draining 4 inches below those wall returns?

Blowing out the lines: I will need to get a shop vac to blow out the lines. Is this good enough to get the job done?

Stanley - SL18116P Wet/Dry Vacuum, 6 Gallon, 4 Horsepower Black https://a.co/d/3R5cATm

From my understanding I’m putting the shop vac hose into the skimmer (once draining is complete) and blowing until I only see fine mist coming out of the wall returns? It says “returns” in the article but I need clarity haha. Air wouldn’t go to floor returns right?

“Remove the Drain plugs”: I do not know what these things are so I’m confused as to what I’m doing for this section.

Antifreeze: where am I pouring this? And how do I determine the length of my pipes? I’m not the original owner so no clue!

Seal the pipes: I believe I have winter plugs for everything but for the SWG, do you just use expandable rubber plugs for each part where unions attach (so effectively there is a big empty gap in the pipes) or do I buy a dummy cell?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Texas Splash]

Meghan, I'm going to help with your reply and also tag @ajw22 since he's done this a few times.

Algaecide: Is this product sufficient for the polyquat60?

That looks good. For ANY algaecide product, look for "Polyoxyethylene (dimethylamino) Ethylene (dimethylamino) ethylene dichloride 60% "

Draining: I have a 0.5HP submersible pump and a 100 ft garden hose to reach the sewer between me and my neighbor. Is this a sufficient horsepower?

If you're not in a hurry, I believe that should work.

Blowing out the lines: I will need to get a shop vac to blow out the lines. Is this good enough to get the job done?

For some pools yes, however the "Cyclone" is preferred. It provides the "volume" of air required to really move water out of the way. Many ShopVacs fall short in that area.

“Remove the Drain plugs”: I do not know what these things are so I’m confused as to what I’m doing for this section.

Pump drain plugs are at the bottom of the pump basket (pot). Should be a small plug that you can unscrew.

Antifreeze: where am I pouring this? And how do I determine the length of my pipes? I’m not the original owner so no clue!

Pool antifreeze or RV antifreeze can be poured into any exposed pipes you have disconnected just before closing for the winter. You may pour some in the pipes, the skimmer, etc. Never use regular automotive antifreeze. Don't forget a "Gizmo" for your skimmer.

Seal the pipes: I believe I have winter plugs for everything but for the SWG, do you just use expandable rubber plugs for each part where unions attach (so effectively there is a big empty gap in the pipes) or do I buy a dummy cell?

You have options. Plugs, dummy cell, etc.

I'll let Allen take it from here. More to follow!

 

[wireform]

Meghan,
MY recommendation to you is higher someone for this year and learn the pool. There's lots going on, main drain air lock needed....There's a lot to lose if you don't do it right so $350 or so is small money to open up for a problem-less pool. The water needs to remain below the tile line throughout the winter so the ice doesn't even get close. You can open yourself next season and save the cash.

 

[Newdude]

+1. Paying to close means that you will have been professionally shown how to open (in reverse). Then closing next year will really be your second rodeo in reverse again.

Or spend this years closing money on a cyclone and there will be no question all the pipes are clear when they are geysers spitting violently.

 

[Meghanfoss]

Ok that sounds good!! And probably the smart thing to do. Thanks everyone!

 

[Newdude]

Remember, if you go the professional route, you have to pre-tip. No worker folks expect tips anymore because it rarely happens. 95% of people say 'I'm paying so much money that the owner can pay his crew enough if he wants'. Source : am worker dude.

So. Tip them right out the truck $20 each (a real lunch, not the fictitious 'hey let me buy you lunch with $5' baloney) and tell them you need to watch and learn your system. Then take 500 pics. They are free and the cloud will keep them forever.

 

[wireform]

Then take 500 pics. They are free and the cloud will keep them forever.

Then come next year when you ask away it'll make more sense.

 

[Meghanfoss]

Or spend this years closing money on a cyclone and there will be no question all the pipes are clear when they are geysers spitting violently.

For future reference, is this the cyclone you’re talking about?

Air Supply 4128100P Cyclone 3 HP 120 Volt 14 Amp Portable Pool Spa Air Blower https://a.co/d/6ti246p

 

[Newdude]

For future reference, is this the cyclone you’re talking about

It is. You need high flow at low PSI and that bad boy could keep one of those giant watersides inflated. Many standard air compressors only have high PSI selections with little CFM (cubic feet per minute / flow). They can fill your car tire which is small but suck at pool floats as an example. You connect the cyclone at a skimmer and blow though the whole system as you run through the valves to clear the main drains, features, returns, etc.

I used my commercial backpack leaf blower which had enough oomph. When I replaced it I didn't want to risk the brand new $650 blower and used the blower port on my shop vac which worked good enough, but not great.

 

[Meghanfoss]

Here is another couple of questions I have…

So when they closed for me last year, they would keep my filter and salt cell for storage, clean it, and upon opening this year brought it back. If my goal is to repeat the process backwards at opening next year, I need to keep everything. How do I store the filter and salt cell during winter? So I clean the filter before storage?