Max-E-Therm SR400NA Manifold Issue

Puertex

Bronze Supporter
Jan 8, 2016
86
Pearland, Texas
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
My Maxetherm 400 is 6 years old.
The installer used galvanized pipe (3/4 to 1 inch pipe) about 3 inches long on the bottom of the front manifold to install a pressure relief valve.
Over time, this pipe has corroded to the point that it sprung a leak. I am mad on myself for not noticing sooner.
The pipe cannot be removed from the manifold, its paper thin.
It is corroded all the way into the threads inside the manifold.
To make it worse, the bottom manifold steel bolt head is corroded too.
The pool repair company quoted $1,000 to replace the manifold IF they can remove the existing.
The manifold itself is $750 with the huge markup.
What do y'all think, new heater? A new heater installed is about $5k (ouch !).
The existing heater was still working until this came up.
Thanks for your comments !
Puertex
 
Remove the bottom bolt to see if water comes out of the hole.
Hello, Do I do this with pool pump on or off?

Also, can the manifold be replaced without disconnecting the gas lines and moving the heater?

Is there room at the front to remove the manifold by just disconnecting the water connection?

Thanks,
Puertex
 
The pool repair company quoted $1,000 to replace the manifold IF they can remove the existing.
The manifold itself is $750 with the huge markup.
Are we talking about the heat exchanger (Tube Sheet Coil Assembly Kit) or the manifold?

What exact model do you have?

How old is the heater?

Can you show the sticker with the barcode?

Can you show pictures of everything?


1684250535168.png


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Last edited:
Hello, Do I do this with pool pump on or off?

Also, can the manifold be replaced without disconnecting the gas lines and moving the heater?

Is there room at the front to remove the manifold by just disconnecting the water connection?

Thanks,
Puertex
Pump on or off, doesn't matter. With it on IF the heat exchanger does have a leak it will come out faster.
You may be able to remove the manifold without moving the heater. There should be a pipe union near the heater after the gas cock. Turn the gas off and open the union and you can easily move the heater if you have to. A union takes no sealant, just be sure it is very tightly put back together, take two pipe wrenches, large Channel Locks, etc.
 
Are we talking about the heat exchanger (Tube Sheet Coil Assembly Kit) or the manifold?

What exact model do you have?

How old is the heater?

Can you show the sticker with the barcode?

Can you show pictures of everything?


View attachment 492270


View attachment 492271

View attachment 492272
Hello,
I attached the photos.
The sticker is gone but the model number is a SR400NA.
I removed the bottom right bolt and there was no water coming out.
The bottom left bolt head is corroded and I am going to try an extractor to remove it.
Yes, the pool repair company quoted the manifold that includes all bolts, O-rings, gaskets associated with this manifold. That version of the mani is more expensive and at least one of my bolts is gone.
I did notice that the manifold comes in different kits like the one you show is cheaper but it does not have all the parts.
This manifold also come with internal parts that can be transferred from old to new.
If I am able to remove all the bolts, can the manifold be removed sideways?
Once I unscrew the front water connections, I dont think there is much clearance.
Thanks,
Puertex
 

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You can probably unscrew that.

Try rotating the part counterclockwise using the PVC pipe.

If it moves without breaking, cut off the pvc at the red line and unscrew the part.

1684265117169.png
 
Pump on or off, doesn't matter. With it on IF the heat exchanger does have a leak it will come out faster.
You may be able to remove the manifold without moving the heater. There should be a pipe union near the heater after the gas cock. Turn the gas off and open the union and you can easily move the heater if you have to. A union takes no sealant, just be sure it is very tightly put back together, take two pipe wrenches, large Channel Locks, etc.
There was no leak when I removed the bolt so the integrity of the heater is good.
I think if I can remove all the manifold bolts, and disconnect the PVC front connections, the manifold will slide sideways perhaps not needing to loosen the gas connections.
You are right, there is a pipe union for the gas line feeding the heater.
Right now I am fighting the bottom left bolt with a corroded head. I will try a bolt extractor.
Thanks !
Puertex
 

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Cut at the red line and then push something into the remaining pipe like a dowel and then grab at the blue arrow and unscrew.

If the inserted object fits perfectly, it will prevent collapse of the pipe and it should unscrew.

1684269099570.png
 
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