I'm getting an AFS message...Air Flow Sensor...which makes sense because the blower is never starting up. AFS LED is lit on the control board.
FYI, before I learned what I now understand about this heater, and based on some other threads, I replaced the control board and I ended up replacing the air flow sensor. Fairly inexpensive repairs, but they did not fix the issue (and now I have future spare parts, LOL).
Today, I confirmed my blower motor spins freely, there is no water in the burner chamber / coils are dry, I tested my blower motor capacitor (it tests perfectly at 8uF), and I tested voltage as described in this thread. I also tested all the wires going into the blower motor as described in this thread, and everything checks out. No shorts are noted. Then I began checking the wires in the plug that connects to the blower motor.
I believe I have found the issue...I've got 120V on the red blower motor wire and zero volts on the black blower motor wire. I'm wired for 240V in my installation. I should see 120V on the black wire when the heater is commanded to run, and I should see 240V if I put the probes on the red and black wires that feed the blower motor (when heater is commanded to run) if I understand what JamesW has shared in this thread.
I checked the black wire where it comes out of the ignition control module at F2 (which runs to the black wire in the blower plug) - and I get no voltage coming off the igntion module at F2 when the heater is commanded to turn on. As I understand it per JamesW, the red blower motor wire should always have 120V and the black gets switched (powered with 120V) when the heater is supposed to turn on.
I have ordered a new ignition control module; I'll report back if that fixes my issue.
I've had the heater 3 years; when it was 6 months old it failed and the message was SFS...Stack Flow Sensor. I replaced that item for about $27.00 - and it has been good ever since. One other side note: The Atlanta area Pentair factory sales rep came out and inspected my heater IN PERSON...he told me I need a new heater because the heat exchanger has rusted through. I think he's wrong, as my cellphone snaked into the exhaust stack shows no water - and dry coils. We shall see. I suppose when your job is sales it is easier jsut to tell someone they need a new $4,100 heater; I'm going to feel real good if I replace this with a $150.00 ignition control board.
FYI, before I learned what I now understand about this heater, and based on some other threads, I replaced the control board and I ended up replacing the air flow sensor. Fairly inexpensive repairs, but they did not fix the issue (and now I have future spare parts, LOL).
Today, I confirmed my blower motor spins freely, there is no water in the burner chamber / coils are dry, I tested my blower motor capacitor (it tests perfectly at 8uF), and I tested voltage as described in this thread. I also tested all the wires going into the blower motor as described in this thread, and everything checks out. No shorts are noted. Then I began checking the wires in the plug that connects to the blower motor.
I believe I have found the issue...I've got 120V on the red blower motor wire and zero volts on the black blower motor wire. I'm wired for 240V in my installation. I should see 120V on the black wire when the heater is commanded to run, and I should see 240V if I put the probes on the red and black wires that feed the blower motor (when heater is commanded to run) if I understand what JamesW has shared in this thread.
I checked the black wire where it comes out of the ignition control module at F2 (which runs to the black wire in the blower plug) - and I get no voltage coming off the igntion module at F2 when the heater is commanded to turn on. As I understand it per JamesW, the red blower motor wire should always have 120V and the black gets switched (powered with 120V) when the heater is supposed to turn on.
I have ordered a new ignition control module; I'll report back if that fixes my issue.
I've had the heater 3 years; when it was 6 months old it failed and the message was SFS...Stack Flow Sensor. I replaced that item for about $27.00 - and it has been good ever since. One other side note: The Atlanta area Pentair factory sales rep came out and inspected my heater IN PERSON...he told me I need a new heater because the heat exchanger has rusted through. I think he's wrong, as my cellphone snaked into the exhaust stack shows no water - and dry coils. We shall see. I suppose when your job is sales it is easier jsut to tell someone they need a new $4,100 heater; I'm going to feel real good if I replace this with a $150.00 ignition control board.
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