Mastertemp 400 IGN Error after flood

marcussly27

Member
May 17, 2023
22
Michigan
Pool Size
4800
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have a 4800 gallon container pool that was installed level with the ground so my mechanicals are below ground. Well, we got a bunch of rain last week and that room that is kept dry by a sump pump was flooded. The sump pump cannot keep up, since then I have installed a stronger sump pump along with two other back ups, which can pump water on my back up generator until earth doesn’t have water any longer. Which should solve the flooding issue, hopefully.

My issue is that after I took everything out, dried everything, and reinstalled, everything is working aside from my intellicenter (which is fried I’m assuming) and my heater. I disconnected the automation from the pump and connected the heater wires at the switch on the intellicenter thereby bypassing automation, or at least that’s the goal.

I can get my pump back on and the heater to turn on. Heater panel lights up, blower turns on (it louder then before, should I lubricate this anywhere?) and I can hear the tick of the ignitor. I tested the ignitor for power and receive about 45 volts when it calls for ignition. I also tested the ignitor and have about 80 ohms so I think that’s ok. I tested the prongs to the right of the on/off switch of the valve and got about 5v, but I don’t think I’m getting gas because I can’t smell any in the exhaust.

Where do I go from here? I’m guessing either the gas valve needs to be replaced or maybe the air flow switch? The heater is only a year old. Don’t beat me up for being an idiot and installing a container pool below ground please. Worst idea ever. The heater blower, manifold, and gas valve were removed to dry fyi. The gas line was also drained since it was filled with water. Pool breaker was replaced as well.

Thanks!
 

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The MasterTemp heater has a sealed burner can. I think you need to open that up and check for water in the burner can.

How high did the water level get?

Was the heater completely submerged?
 
It was completely submerged, everything was. I took my phone camera and looked down the exhaust and everything was dry at the bottom. I also took the manifold off to make sure all the water was out.
 
I think the gas valve has to be replaced if submerged.

If the air flow switch was failing it would give an AFS error.

Lets see if @swamprat69 agrees with replacing the gas valve.
 
In HVAC standard procedure for a heater that has been submerged in water Is to replace the gas valve, replace All electronics and safeties and relays ( they are all considered both unsafe and unreliable after being submerged). Replace the ignitor and dry and clean all other parts. The motor (blower) is questionable depending on whether water got past the bearing seal. but even if it runs you can expect a shortened life. All ferrous parts that have not been completely dried and cleaned can be expected to rust. As the exhaust vent is directly connected to the combustion chamber/ heat exchanger that also must have been full of water. Normal recommendation would be replacement rather than attempting to repair.
 
Thanks for the feedback! Regarding the blower, where do you recommend lubricating and what lubricant do I use? Also should I lubricate anything on the pump? regarding the igniter, with an 80 ohm reading, I assume that is operational correct?
 
Most newer motors do not have oiling ports and bearings are sealed. Bearings are at either end of the motor housing where the shaft is supported. Although the ignitor may ohm out correctly, the water contamination was not "distilled water". This would effect a silicon carbide (light black to gray with a chrystallized structure) more than a silicon nitride ( darker black with a smooth surface) ignitor.
 
If I insured the gas was turned off, would it be possible to turn the heater on with the igniter plug removed to view if it’s functional? Guessing it glows hot red when heater calls for ignition? I have a gas detector to verify for gas along with smelling for it of course. Worst idea ever?
 
You could check the ignitor with the gas turned off. Not sure what " I have a gas detector to verify for gas along with smelling for it of course. " means as you would be checking the ignitor with the gas turned off. I realize that you are trying to use the heater with the least possible repairs, but we are back to " have you replaced the gas valve and all electronics and safeties" that have been submerged as these are very important issues in regards to the SAFETY of operation of the heater!
 

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