Hello, I have mastertemp 400 and recently had to replace blower motor (old one froze up). The new blower would not start and got AFS light. Called Pentair and after troubleshooting no power (jumped F1 and F2 and new blower motor works) checked 24vac terminal and IND terminal and no 24 vac on IND, they said needed new Control board and membrane pad. I ordered newest Pentair board. Installed and have same problem, no power to blower. I have not checked new control board 24 vac on pins 3 of J1 or terminals. I need help verify this new board is working on my older 2016 heater. Please any help appreciated.
Mastertemp 400 AFS error no power to blower
- Thread starter MLCarlson
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,727
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
Is your heater connected to automation?
Have you checked the fuse at the fireman’s switch?
Your new board cone with a new 6 button keypad?
www.troublefreepool.com
Is your heater connected to automation?
Have you checked the fuse at the fireman’s switch?
Your new board cone with a new 6 button keypad?
Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Thanks for reply. My heater is not connected to automation and I have checked the fuse which is ok. I did have to replace it after I put the new control board on. It’s fine now and hasn’t blown again. My keyboard is the new one with 6 buttons on pad.
I’m going to test voltage to the blower using steps read on plug. Testing 1 and 3 or red to black. I find 120 v on red, turn on with meter between red and black and I find not much 2.4 v.
To answer question does AFS come on before motor supposed to start? I would say no. I start heater and see both temperatures reading for 1-2 seconds and then see err AFS.
To answer question, I would say no, when I turn on heater, I see both temperature reading then 1-2 secs see err AFS.
It seems odd that the motor froze up.
Did you try to turn the motor by hand?
Can you show pictures of everything?
Was there a lot of corrosion?
What is the manufacturing date from the sticker?
Did you try to turn the motor by hand?
Can you show pictures of everything?
Was there a lot of corrosion?
What is the manufacturing date from the sticker?
I just checked in ICM 24 vac to ground got 26v and get no voltage on IND terminal on ICM. Is this right or should I get 24 v there too?
Yes, it was frozen in that I could not turn it by hand even once removed.. I don’t see much corrosion at all. Heater is 2016 by
Attachments
Disconnect the wires from the AFS and check for continuity.
If the switch is closed, the AFS is bad.
Check Pin 3 of the J1 terminal for 24 VAC.
If you get 24 VAC on pin 3 of the J1 connector, then the wire to the ICM is bad.
If no voltage at Pin 3 of J1, check voltage at Pin 6 of the J2 terminal.
If you have voltage at Pin 6 of the J2 terminal, replace the control board.
If no voltage, a wire might be bad or missing.
If the switch is closed, the AFS is bad.
The IND terminal should have 24 VAC on call for heat.
Check Pin 3 of the J1 terminal for 24 VAC.
If you get 24 VAC on pin 3 of the J1 connector, then the wire to the ICM is bad.
If no voltage at Pin 3 of J1, check voltage at Pin 6 of the J2 terminal.
If you have voltage at Pin 6 of the J2 terminal, replace the control board.
If no voltage, a wire might be bad or missing.
Ok will do. The control board is new as is new membrane pad. If this new one is faulty I can return in 30 days. Hate to think you can get bad parts but we all know it’s possible. Let you know thanks
I tested voltage on pin 3 in J1 and get 26v. So I tested for continuity on the y/o wire from pin 3 J1 with end of the IND y/o wire off the ICM and get zero. Will this tell me if wire is good? Can I test the IND terminal pong on the ICM separate from the control board?
If you get 24 VAC on pin 3 of the J1 connector, then the wire to the ICM is bad.
I would replace the wire.
Pin 3 on J1 is the inducer (Blower) and there is a wire (Yellow with and Orange stripe) from Pin 3 on J1 to the IND (Blower) on the ICM (Ignition Control Module).
So, if you have 24 VAC on Pin 3 of J1, you should have 24 VAC on the IND terminal of the ICM with the wire connected.
If you disconnect the wire at the IND terminal on the ICM, do you get 24 VAC on the wire?
If no continuity from Pin 3 of J1 to the end of the wire, the wire has a break somewhere.
Maybe a bad end connector?
So, if you have 24 VAC on Pin 3 of J1, you should have 24 VAC on the IND terminal of the ICM with the wire connected.
If you disconnect the wire at the IND terminal on the ICM, do you get 24 VAC on the wire?
If no continuity from Pin 3 of J1 to the end of the wire, the wire has a break somewhere.
Maybe a bad end connector?