I wasnt trying to stir the pot and I am aligned with TFP practices. I feel a tactical assault last night would have yielded spectacular results given the data he has provided (new water, low CYA, lingering algae and a plaster surface). His test kit is on the way and the weekend is upon us.
Massive algae bloom
- Thread starter djbilo
- Start date
Brushpup said:
Well, I misunderstood "return", thinking "return to pump" instead of "return to pool". Semantics always gets in the way.
Bama Rambler said:Now that you've got things going your way, just put about 3 ppm FC each day until the TF -100 gets there.
by the way.
Thank you! We're feeling much relief and I am also anxious to take a dip soon, in this nice water. Maybe all this explains why we floated so well...water so hard you float!
Saturday morning and all is clear. Adding water (evaporation is pretty intense in the Dallas heat) from overnight, and CYA still being 'socked'.
A bit of liquid chlorine to raise the FC, which had dropped to nothing since last night; even though I just bought it and the cases seemed new, I find myself wondering based on the aroma, if the store bleach isn't fresher overall since it probably has much higher inventory turn rate.
Either that or this stuff just hides the chlorine in solution so well it doesn't give off much odor.
A bit of liquid chlorine to raise the FC, which had dropped to nothing since last night; even though I just bought it and the cases seemed new, I find myself wondering based on the aroma, if the store bleach isn't fresher overall since it probably has much higher inventory turn rate.
Either that or this stuff just hides the chlorine in solution so well it doesn't give off much odor.
Howdy, neighbor! Nice work so far.
As long as your FC is between minimum and shock levels for your CYA, and you can see the drain (which you clearly can), it is safe to swim. Assume a CYA of 20 since that's what you're expecting from the amount of stabilizer you put in. Once your test kit arrives and you start slamming, you'll have to stay out of the pool with the FC at shock level or higher. But, you can enjoy the water now if you'd like. (I don't expect you'll need to slam for long given the full drain, clean-up, and care you're taking in keeping it chlorinated.)
You can check bleach strength later by testing against the pool calculator predictions. Looking at actual versus prediction for the 2 different bleaches should give you a good idea of their relative strengths. Wait to do this once the slam is finished and you're confident all the algae is dead and gone.
As long as your FC is between minimum and shock levels for your CYA, and you can see the drain (which you clearly can), it is safe to swim. Assume a CYA of 20 since that's what you're expecting from the amount of stabilizer you put in. Once your test kit arrives and you start slamming, you'll have to stay out of the pool with the FC at shock level or higher. But, you can enjoy the water now if you'd like. (I don't expect you'll need to slam for long given the full drain, clean-up, and care you're taking in keeping it chlorinated.)
You can check bleach strength later by testing against the pool calculator predictions. Looking at actual versus prediction for the 2 different bleaches should give you a good idea of their relative strengths. Wait to do this once the slam is finished and you're confident all the algae is dead and gone.
After a late night having left the pool with a good dose of liquid chlorine before we left, a quick test strip check a bit ago showed FC about 3. I also lowered the pH to see about slowly starting to dissolve the calcium build-up, but I really wanted also to check the pH downward as it had trended up a bit based on somewhat hard to read test strip color.
Got a good response to the pH Down product. Still not really registering any CYA at all from what the test strips show though I'm at "two socks" of the stuff.
Meanwhile the bottom drain continues to spew the white granular-looking stuff...very odd. I guess if I vacuum it up I then would wash the filter cart just so whatever it is doesn't contaminate anything.
Got a good response to the pH Down product. Still not really registering any CYA at all from what the test strips show though I'm at "two socks" of the stuff.
Meanwhile the bottom drain continues to spew the white granular-looking stuff...very odd. I guess if I vacuum it up I then would wash the filter cart just so whatever it is doesn't contaminate anything.
The TF-100 arrived today. Here are today's results, taken between 7:30 PM and 8:00 PM Central time:
Basic FC/BR test, 1/2
pH, 7.2
Drop Tests:
FC: 1.5
CC: 0
TC: 1.5
TA 60
CH: 100
CYA: <20 (cylinder was full before black dot disappeared).
I've added about 2/3 of the CYA amount called for thus far. I expect after 5-6 days with no addition, CYA will go up based on what I read here. I had lowered the pH a bit to see about easing the calcium deposits on the sides/bottom - they are visible and somewhat unsightly now that the water is so sparkly.
Don't know what the white debris was on the bottom drain but the Barracuda has picked it up. Can't clean the filter at present while I await the CYA to fully dissolve.
Thoughts, comments, suggestions?
Basic FC/BR test, 1/2
pH, 7.2
Drop Tests:
FC: 1.5
CC: 0
TC: 1.5
TA 60
CH: 100
CYA: <20 (cylinder was full before black dot disappeared).
I've added about 2/3 of the CYA amount called for thus far. I expect after 5-6 days with no addition, CYA will go up based on what I read here. I had lowered the pH a bit to see about easing the calcium deposits on the sides/bottom - they are visible and somewhat unsightly now that the water is so sparkly.
Don't know what the white debris was on the bottom drain but the Barracuda has picked it up. Can't clean the filter at present while I await the CYA to fully dissolve.
Thoughts, comments, suggestions?
How much CYA have you added? It should mostly be showing up by now. You may need to add a bit more to get to 30ppm.
Your CH is awfully low for a plaster pool.
Are you going to start the SLAM process? Or at least raise the FC up closer to 10ppm and do the OCLT is your water is already clear with no sign of algae.
Your CH is awfully low for a plaster pool.
Are you going to start the SLAM process? Or at least raise the FC up closer to 10ppm and do the OCLT is your water is already clear with no sign of algae.
Jason, as this was a complete drain/refill these numbers do not surprise me too much.
The water is crystal clear. I won't do the OCLT until Friday, probably, based on morning work schedule. Meanwhile I will watch the basic chlorine test and adjust accordingly if something even hints at being out of whack.
CYA...it is about 2 lbs or more so far...about half to 2/3 the recommended and so will add more overnight. By the weekend I would think the level will come up.
The water is crystal clear. I won't do the OCLT until Friday, probably, based on morning work schedule. Meanwhile I will watch the basic chlorine test and adjust accordingly if something even hints at being out of whack.
CYA...it is about 2 lbs or more so far...about half to 2/3 the recommended and so will add more overnight. By the weekend I would think the level will come up.
OCLT shows .5 ppm loss....1 ppm this morning. will add a gal to raise for the day for safety and test again tonight at higher concentration.
Sounds like a plan. You would think the opposite, but a fresh bottle of Chlorine has very little "Chlorine" smell.
Tonight FC is 1.5, CC is 1.0.
First time seeing CC >0, but it's very early in the cycle of these more detailed tests.
Also, used the Barracuda to sweep the pool overnight, last night and the night before (swam the night before, not last night). Using it does impact total circulation since it uses primary pump suction.
Anyone have an opinion about that - continued use of a sweeper (continued = each pump run/day), compared to dropping it in any evening when debris is noted, to let it clean it up?
Have reduced my pump run to 6 hours, 1 AM to 7 AM - also could have an impact. Which might have more impact on the chemistry - the sweeper and how it impacts circulation, or filtering less hours/day?
First time seeing CC >0, but it's very early in the cycle of these more detailed tests.
Also, used the Barracuda to sweep the pool overnight, last night and the night before (swam the night before, not last night). Using it does impact total circulation since it uses primary pump suction.
Anyone have an opinion about that - continued use of a sweeper (continued = each pump run/day), compared to dropping it in any evening when debris is noted, to let it clean it up?
Have reduced my pump run to 6 hours, 1 AM to 7 AM - also could have an impact. Which might have more impact on the chemistry - the sweeper and how it impacts circulation, or filtering less hours/day?
You cannot run the pump too much or run the auto-vac too much. All you lose is electricity but you get more filtration and cleaning. Your pump run time seems a bit low to me but if it is keeping your pool pristine that's fine. If it's not, then up your run time. Use the auto vac as often as you like.
More important than all the above, your CHLORINE IS TOO LOW. Never let your chlorine dip below the suggested guidance in the FC/CYA chart in Pool School.
More important than all the above, your CHLORINE IS TOO LOW. Never let your chlorine dip below the suggested guidance in the FC/CYA chart in Pool School.
duraleigh said:
I guess what I find myself wondering is just how much liquid chlorine I should expect to consume on a regular basis, expressed in gallon jugs (either cheap bleach or liquid chlorine...just some kind of experience)?
What amount has been others' experience after adopting this method in lieu of the pucks?
Depending on bather load, sun exposure, and temperature, you should.expect to lose at least a few PPM per day. Chlorine must be replaced constantly, and consistently. Letting it dip below target too often and for too long is what gets you in trouble.
A clean pool often loses 2-3ppm each day. Use the calculator to see how much bleach that is.
That is my preference. The < 1ppm loss in the OCLT is based on people usually being at or near SLAM level. Starting at lower FC levels ... that requirement likely should be a smaller loss.nedchavez said:
Added 1 gal bleach this evening. Ran pump for an hour and shut off.
FC: 5.5
CC: 0
TC: 5.5
TA: 90 (I need to repeat, unsure of the # my wife recorded and she can't tell either)
CH: 120
CYA: Still <20
pH: 7.4 (just under 7.5 - but more than 7.2 on the color chart)
What is anyone's noted water loss rate in the southern/central US this time of year? I still wonder about the amount of water loss due to evap but could be because of the extreme dry conditions. Loss of 2-3 inches in a single 24-hour period and there is no sign of a leak anywhere I can "see". Doesn't mean there isn't one, but there don't seem to be the usual symptoms anywhere around the pool so far as I can tell.
FC: 5.5
CC: 0
TC: 5.5
TA: 90 (I need to repeat, unsure of the # my wife recorded and she can't tell either)
CH: 120
CYA: Still <20
pH: 7.4 (just under 7.5 - but more than 7.2 on the color chart)
What is anyone's noted water loss rate in the southern/central US this time of year? I still wonder about the amount of water loss due to evap but could be because of the extreme dry conditions. Loss of 2-3 inches in a single 24-hour period and there is no sign of a leak anywhere I can "see". Doesn't mean there isn't one, but there don't seem to be the usual symptoms anywhere around the pool so far as I can tell.