Main Drain Question?

Derb22

0
Gold Supporter
Apr 29, 2018
328
Roswell GA
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60
Jim,
I have two open pipes in my skimmers with a flapper cover that could go onto either pipe opening to close it down. How do I figure this all out and where should the flappers be set? I dove the pool Sunday just to feel any suction on the main floor drain but didn’t feel any. There is also a Jandy valve at the pool equipment that reads skimmers and main drain it’s in the center position. Help to understand? Pool built in 2000.
 
D,

If you have a valve at the equipment pad, then your main drain should not be connected to your skimmer... It is usually one way or the other...

Even with only your main drain open (skimmer closed) it is almost impossible to "feel" any water movement at the Main Drain covers...

The key is that if the pump does not run out of water when you select 100% main drain, then the drain has to be working.. otherwise, where would the water be coming from.. :p

Thanks,


Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

I suggest running 80% skimmer 20% main drain, but in the long run it does not matter if you ever use the main drain....
 
D,

If you have a valve at the equipment pad, then your main drain should not be connected to your skimmer... It is usually one way or the other...

Even with only your main drain open (skimmer closed) it is almost impossible to "feel" any water movement at the Main Drain covers...

The key is that if the pump does not run out of water when you select 100% main drain, then the drain has to be working.. otherwise, where would the water be coming from.. :p

Thanks,


Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

I suggest running 80% skimmer 20% main drain, but in the long run it does not matter if you ever use the main drain....


Lol. Simple solution but scary for a newbie to think of pump running dry. Right now the valve is in the middle. I know this is a stupid question but Can you tell me which direction to turn the handle? The handle is in the back. Skimmer to left side main to right. It ain’t intuitive on the handle or at least it isn’t to me.
 
Nevermind I got out there and figured it out. Now running about 80/20 as you suggested. Definitely more action at the skimmers now. Thanks and sorry for the dumb question I could figure out myself. Just sometimes scared to move switches and valves when I don’t know the consequences.
 
Lol. Simple solution but scary for a newbie to think of pump running dry. Right now the valve is in the middle. I know this is a stupid question but Can you tell me which direction to turn the handle? The handle is in the back. Skimmer to left side main to right. It ain’t intuitive on the handle or at least it isn’t to me.

Post a pic of the valve handle. Is it a Jandy valve that looks like this?

4715_3portstd_1.jpg
 
Post a pic of the valve handle. Is it a Jandy valve that looks like this?

View attachment 78904
Yep. Main drain left pipe skimmers right pipe. In from pool center. I got it figured out with the big giant off label. Lol. But intuitively from a pilot we turn valves to the open not the close. Backwards to my internal wireing.
 
D,

It would have just been a guess for me anyway... they is no surefire way to tell which pipe is the main drain, and which pipe is the skimmer, just by looking at them.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
D,

It would have just been a guess for me anyway... they is no surefire way to tell which pipe is the main drain, and which pipe is the skimmer, just by looking at them.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Jim,
sadly they were labeled. But it was still backward to me although easier to figure out when I saw the giant off label.
 
But intuitively from a pilot we turn valves to the open not the close. Backwards to my internal wireing.

Also a pilot ;). You need to find the pool normal and abnormal checklists. :D
 
It did bring up something that I have noticed lately along with the leak at the pump outlet. I am getting air somewhere. I don’t think it’s just the swg. Turning the valve more to skimmers seemed to add more air. I can always go let air out of my filter relief valve at just about anytime. Could this just be the water leak? Or something more?

- - - Updated - - -

Also a pilot ;). You need to find the pool normal and abnormal checklists. :D

Thats funny lol. Abnormal is correct! :hammer::hammer::shark::super:
 

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It did bring up something that I have noticed lately along with the leak at the pump outlet. I am getting air somewhere. I don’t think it’s just the swg. Turning the valve more to skimmers seemed to add more air. I can always go let air out of my filter relief valve at just about anytime. Could this just be the water leak? Or something more?

- - - Updated - - -



Thats funny lol. Abnormal is correct! :hammer::hammer::shark::super:
Have you checked the water level? Have you checked that the weir (skimmer door) is moving freely? If the water level drops inside the skimmer well for whatever reason, you could create a vortex that sucks air in.
 
Have you checked the water level? Have you checked that the weir (skimmer door) is moving freely? If the water level drops inside the skimmer well for whatever reason, you could create a vortex that sucks air in.
Auto water level system. I will check doors and see if I can see air getting sucked in.
 
I don’t see air getting sucked in. It appears like it’s worse on main drain and skimmers off but never really goes away. Could be my PH rise issue as I am adding some bubbles constantly. I can wait 5 minutes and turn the relief valve on the filter and get air every time. I am hoping that goes away with my small leak.
 
Ok so update on the leak. I lubed the oring on the clear pump filter. While it may have slowed down some of the air I happen to catch a duel stream of water spitting out of the return 3 way Jandy valve when I turned the pump off. On closer examination it appears someone has tried to put some sort of sealant on this valve. Is there an o-ring under the 8 screws? If yes is it readily available at the local Leslie’s. I’m sure if water is spitting out on shutdown, air is sucking in with the pump running. Any thoughts, advice, comments, criticism will be welcome.
It is almost to the point with both this new found leak and the original leak I am waiting on a fitting for at the pump that I want to chuck all of the return piping, put in a new two speed pump and start over. I also figured out my threaded returns sticking out of the wall were an insider fitting that someone has simple removed the cap and eyeball. I have wiggled two of the three inside pipes out and will be putting three new eyeballs in this week so I can direct the water deeper when trying to keep PH rise in check and up to aerate while I am lowering TA.

Keep repairing or chuck the old crapolla and begin anew????

just curious I read no point in VS pumps when I don’t have a spa or water features. So two speed for me?
Currently 1 1/2 HP. replace with same HP but two speed or maybe 2 HP two speed? Brand and model number recommended??????
 
D,

Yes the Jandy valve has O-Rings inside... If you saw water coming out, that should be the source of your air leak... Sometimes you just have to use Leslie's, but I am not a fan as everything costs way more than it should...

Whether you repair or replace is kind of up to you...

I have a couple of rent house pools that I initially had to screw with all the time. If it was not one thing it was something else... I rebuilt the equipment pads on both of them. EasyTouch automation, IntelliFlo pumps, IC40 SWCGs, a new DE filter and multiport on one of them, and a bigger concrete deck on the other one... that was about 5 years ago and I have had only one minor issue since. It cost more than I would have liked, but then again my time has become a lot more important to me than money.. :p

I would agree that a 2-speed pump would suit your needs better than a VS pump. I see no reason to go with anything bigger than your current pump, HP wise... Since you have a SWCG run it on low speed most of the time...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
D,

Yes the Jandy valve has O-Rings inside... If you saw water coming out, that should be the source of your air leak... Sometimes you just have to use Leslie's, but I am not a fan as everything costs way more than it should...

Whether you repair or replace is kind of up to you...

I have a couple of rent house pools that I initially had to screw with all the time. If it was not one thing it was something else... I rebuilt the equipment pads on both of them. EasyTouch automation, IntelliFlo pumps, IC40 SWCGs, a new DE filter and multiport on one of them, and a bigger concrete deck on the other one... that was about 5 years ago and I have had only one minor issue since. It cost more than I would have liked, but then again my time has become a lot more important to me than money.. :p

I would agree that a 2-speed pump would suit your needs better than a VS pump. I see no reason to go with anything bigger than your current pump, HP wise... Since you have a SWCG run it on low speed most of the time...

Thanks,

Jim R.

thanks for the advice. Not a fan of Leslie’s either but for quick, impatient jobs a couple bucks won’t kill me. Going to go the o-ring fix for the valve today. A little worried it won’t work. Can’t fathom who ever tried to fix the leak with sealant around the outer edges of the valve didn’t think to just change the o-rings. (Surely not pool company)
 
Just an update. New o-ring kit for Jandy three-way valve and suddenly no air in pool system. Funny someone used some kind of sealant around the outside edges. When I open the valve up the main o-ring fell out in my hand in 6 pieces. Wonder why it was leaking......:rant::rant::suspect::suspect::suspect::pukel: Another sterling example of pool company maintenance practices....
 

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