M.Acid Feeder with SWG

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Jacques,

Many, many SWCG owners do not have much of an issue with pH... I would not install an acid feeder unless you actually need one... In theory, if you have not needed one with your injected chlorine, you may not need one with a SWCG.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I have a SWG and I test my pH weekly and it's almost always 7.8 (after 1 week of acid addition). I always need the same amount - 12oz per week. My point is the acid demand is not crazy so I agree/support wJimrahbe.
 
I feel like I use a lot of acid today and have a hard time maintaining PH stable. I may have some other issue to deal with so yes, at the end after installing the SWG, I might not have to worry too much about it - and I'd be happy to remove the feeder pump and tank from my setup anyway. We'll see. Thank you!
 
Your pH rise will depend on how much fill water you need. Evaporation will be the driver of that. If you cover your pool, you will get little evaporation.
 
I have high TA fill water and since i purchased the intelliph before knowing TFP, i just put it to good use. Only one addition of 60 seconds of 15% a week. Still better than handling it myself. The tank last me about 4-5 months of additions. About your question i would plumb the SWG after the inyector. Just make sure the inyections dont interfere with the self calibration mode when starting the cell.
 
cool, I'll have to see about my fill water, not using a cover for now (my pool is kidney shaped and handling the cover in the space available is not easy).
I will start with SWG installation next week and get back here for help if I see my PH is out of control - thanks everyone
 
Received my Taylor Salt Test today (K-1766):
added one drop of R-0630 in 10ml water, took 33 drops of R-0718 to turn red (did it twice to make sure):
33 x 200 = 6600 ppm !
Could the pool water be that salty even though I've always been using Chlorine?
Any downside to this higher level of salt when I installed the SWG? Or should I replace some of the water?
 
I think that would be a record. Did you use a SpeedStir device?

What SWCG are you installing? IF the salinity is 6600 ppm, yes, you will need to drain about 50% of the pool water and replace with fresh.
 
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Yes I used a speedstir, and planning to install a RJ30+.
I’m just amazed at how much salt there is even though to my knowledge the pool was never equipped with SWG. Could the previous owner had added salt for comfort or is it just the effect of dumping chemicals and chlorine all these years? I’m just really confused at this point and wondering if every liquid chlorine pool owner is running into the salt issue at some point and need to replace some water...
 
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mguzzy said:
Every SWG I know of will protest a salinity that high....wow!🤯
Click to expand...

The Astralpool SWGs can be operated up to 8000ppm salt level. Astralpool recommends 4000ppm for their generators, but they are specified to work between 3000 and 8000ppm. Never tried and don't intend to go that high, though.
 
If you have not exchanged any water for several years and have had minimal to no overflow from rain, the continuous use of liquid chlorine and muriatic acid will raise the salt level in your pool.
Can you post a full set of test results?
For that SWCG, you will need to drain 40-50% of the pool volume.
I would suggest getting an independent salt level from another source prior tochanging water.
 
Jacspill said:
Yes I used a speedstir, and planning to install a RJ30+.
I’m just amazed at how much salt there is even though to my knowledge the pool was never equipped with SWG. Could the previous owner had added salt for comfort or is it just the effect of dumping chemicals and chlorine all these years? I’m just really confused at this point and wondering if every liquid chlorine pool owner is running into the salt issue at some point and need to replace some water...
Click to expand...
Yeah the previous owner coulda added salt... or it could have accumulated for years. It's not uncommon to have over 1000-2000ppm salt from other chemical additions, sans SWG. Your's is really an outlier. Just count yourself lucky that you DON'T have to buy salt. You will just have to buy water to prep your pool for a SWG. BTW most SWG's don't like high salinities because it causes the current to spike and the controllers to spike.. its a water chemistry thing. It is recommend that you run the Hayward SWGs with as low a salinity as you can for example.
 
Can you taste the salt in the water? At that level, you should definitely be able to taste.

Verify your reagents are still good. You may have some reagents outside their dates. I would back up those test results with another source.
 
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Jacspill said:
Could the previous owner had added salt for comfort or is it just the effect of dumping chemicals and chlorine all these years?
Click to expand...
Yes and yes. But are you sure of your test result? The K-1766 is not like all the other drop tests. You don't keep adding drops until the color no longer changes. The test is over when the milky color first flashes to the orangie-red. Check the instructions again. Be sure you're using the correct amount of sample water. Be sure you're holding the reagent bottle perfectly vertical while forming the drops. And/or, as Marty suggested, have your water tested for salt using some other method, to confirm your result.

Regarding the acid injection: you put the injector before the SWG. But that's not the only consideration. You have to have it set up so that the SWG shuts down chlorine production while the acid is being injected. Otherwise you'll be pumping acid into chlorine gas and that's bad, like very bad. My IntellipH/IntelliChlor combo does that automatically. If you're building something yourself, you have to account for that with timer schedules or some clever wiring with relays or something like that.
 
Thanks for the tips. And yes, we can taste the salt in the water when swimming (which was not the case when we started to enjoy the pool 8 years ago). I think I'm doing the test right, I've been using the TF100 kit for a while with the speedstir. My salt water kit is brand new and yes I stop when it flashes to red, which is actually kind of fun and impressive it does that!
 
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ok, emptied about half of the pool and refilled with some fresh water, ended up with salt at 2400 ppm. I guess I over shouted a bit but that's better then still being too high. And since my CH is still in the higher spectrum I don't regret it.
Here are my latest tests results:
FC: 3
CC: 1
pH: 7.2
TA: 90
CH: 520
CYA: 70
SALT: 3200
TEMP: 78F
CSI: -0.36

Still some adjustments to make but looks like I'm on the right track.
I'm gonna add some more salt to reach the 3500 ppm target and then proceed to the installation of the RJ30+
About that, it says to bound the unit to the pool grounding system, I don't think I have one, is that going to be a problem and the unit won't operate properly or this has to do with electrical safety?
 

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