Just ordered a Taylor 1766 kit online. Swg says 2650 but my COM-80 Salt 3050 meter says normal ~3400. I’m leaning on the latter, but will the swg make chlorine if low salt red light is on? I assume it would make less. Ordered the Taylor kit most everyone’s here prefers just to be sure. Not sure about the calibration of the com-80 salt meter, but it seems more reliable. Suggestions?
Low salt? IC40 still make chlorine?
- Thread starter igneous
- Start date
Randrx2
Bronze Supporter
- Dec 13, 2018
- 436
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
According to the IC-40 manual, it does:
Red LED: Low salt. The water salt level is below 2800 ppm. The IECG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency. It is highly recommended to add salt. See (*) Note below.
Red LED: Very low salt. The water salt level has fallen below 2600 ppm. The IECG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The IECG is OFF. See (*) Note below.
NOTE (*): Salinity readings will be accurate after the first power up of the IECG, following a 24 hour period. After every salt addition, proper dilution and salinity readings should be done after the pump has been running for at least 24 hours
Red LED: Low salt. The water salt level is below 2800 ppm. The IECG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency. It is highly recommended to add salt. See (*) Note below.
Red LED: Very low salt. The water salt level has fallen below 2600 ppm. The IECG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The IECG is OFF. See (*) Note below.
NOTE (*): Salinity readings will be accurate after the first power up of the IECG, following a 24 hour period. After every salt addition, proper dilution and salinity readings should be done after the pump has been running for at least 24 hours
i,
The IC40 salt reading is +/- 500 ppm... my theory of operation is to "make the cell happy" within reason.. As long as the cell thinks the salt level is low, it matters little what the actual salt level is. I will add salt to make the cell think the salt is OK, as long as my actual salt (K-1766) is not more than 4000... If I have to go over 4000, then the cell most likely has a bad thermistor.
As the cells go out of warranty, I replace the internal flow switch thermistor with an external thermistor mounted in the plumbing..
Thanks,
Jim R.
The IC40 salt reading is +/- 500 ppm... my theory of operation is to "make the cell happy" within reason.. As long as the cell thinks the salt level is low, it matters little what the actual salt level is. I will add salt to make the cell think the salt is OK, as long as my actual salt (K-1766) is not more than 4000... If I have to go over 4000, then the cell most likely has a bad thermistor.
As the cells go out of warranty, I replace the internal flow switch thermistor with an external thermistor mounted in the plumbing..
Thanks,
Jim R.
i,
The IntelliChlor is known to have this zero salt level showing up in ScreenLogic and at the panel, while the cell light is green. The cell thinks the salt level is ok, but does not report this to the EasyTouch.. The problem is often the Flow Switch assembly, but can be anything from just needing to reboot, to the main card being bad..
If under warranty, you should have Pentair fix it.. If not, then I would live with it, as it does not effect the way the cell works.
Thanks,
Jim R.
The IntelliChlor is known to have this zero salt level showing up in ScreenLogic and at the panel, while the cell light is green. The cell thinks the salt level is ok, but does not report this to the EasyTouch.. The problem is often the Flow Switch assembly, but can be anything from just needing to reboot, to the main card being bad..
If under warranty, you should have Pentair fix it.. If not, then I would live with it, as it does not effect the way the cell works.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Ok, thanks for the info. Need to test cl level today anyway so that’ll confirm its working. Getting up to 90* here today so I’ll wait till it goes off tonight to power cycle everything.