Low CH, High TA

[Carmen Crawford]

Just finished 4th week since PB finished PB install and getting ready to run the cleaner with the following results:

Chlorine 4.2
Total Chlorine 4.2
pH - 7.8
CH - 35
TA - 270
CYA - 25
TDS -200
Phosphates - 800
Water temp 55

LSI appears good and in-line with the high TA offsetting the low CH. I see stories about how a low CH is bad but good at startup but none mention whether a high TA counterbalances the negative effects of low CH? Is that correct? How long does it take for low CH to corrode metal - 6 months or more? Plan to add some MA next month to bring down the TA and then hardness later.

 

[Leebo]

First and foremost, WELCOME TO TFP!

To start I must ask, where did these results come from as I’m slightly skeptical of some of them. Next, metal will not be corroded by low calcium levels so no worries there however your plaster can be damaged if you let the calcium stay low. You mentioned you’re gonna wait till next month to add calcium, may I ask why you plan on waiting so long?

 

[Carmen Crawford]

Thank you for the quick response and welcome Leebo. The test results are from one of the large national pool retailers. Several tests over the past 2 weeks show similar results and PB startup person confirmed the results. Guess I could take a sample to a different tester but … why dont people trust in store testing? Happy to add hardness now that the PB is handing off to me but did the PB make a mistake in not adding hardness right at startup? Trying to figure out if low CH for a short period like a month could cause any long term damage when I had high TA during this same time. Surface looks great. I know the pool industry uses fear tactics to sell chemicals. Bought a foreclosure 10 years ago with a pool that sat with brown water (and probably extremely imbalanced water) for at least 3 months before I closed and once drained no problems but I am learning.

 

[Leebo]

We’ve seen multiple times in the past unrealistic results from major chains that have caused many to totally disregard them. As you take control over your own pool I would highly suggest investing a few bucks into your own quality kit. $70 can really help you maintain the investment that cost several times that. In your case the high TA likely came from the fill water which is somewhat odd looking at your CH levels. Normally fill water with high TA also has high CH so I’m kinda wondering what’s occurring here. Where about in Georgia do you live, maybe some other user maybe in the area so we can somewhat compare? Is this pool filled from a well??

As for your question directly…….
The high TA combined with the low water temp did likely help protect your surface. That said you’re still in a bad spot assuming the results you posted are correct. Adding some calcium will likely help you out greatly in the long run, but for now you should be good.

 

[TampaKathy]

I think it depends on who is doing the testing at the pool store...I've only had a pool a couple months but I've taken my water in to be tested a few times so I have a record for warranty purposes if needed and one person went slow and really paid attention to what he was doing and his results were very close to mine. Another time, the woman was talking and looking around and generally not paying attention to what she was doing...her results were Crud, lol.

 

[BowserB]

Seriously, Carmen, get a proper test kit and learn how to use it (it's easier than you might think.) Here's a link to suggested test kits. I lean toward the TF100, but it uses Taylor reagents, so one of the Taylor K2006 kits is OK, too: Test Kits Compared
Pool store. I used to once in a while take a water sample to a pool store--after I had done my own tests. My local store was actually pretty good as a second opinion, but I never relied on their results if different, but rather I would retest myself. Now I don't bother with the pool store much at all.

 

[Carmen Crawford]

Seriously, Carmen, get a proper test kit and learn how to use it (it's easier than you might think.) Here's a link to suggested test kits. I lean toward the TF100, but it uses Taylor reagents, so one of the Taylor K2006 kits is OK, too: Test Kits Compared
Pool store. I used to once in a while take a water sample to a pool store--after I had done my own tests. My local store was actually pretty good as a second opinion, but I never relied on their results if different, but rather I would retest myself. Now I don't bother with the pool store much at all.

I dont know anything about these test kits but I dont see how trying to match colors with numbers on some $70 unit would ever be close to exact or very helpful. And then messing with reagent drops is just not feasible and a pain for most people. I need a digital device. Which do you recommend?

 

[Leebo]

Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

This article discusses many of the common kits we see, including some digital ones.