Losing it with a pool of the new house

jclj2005

Member
Jun 9, 2023
7
Casa Grande AZ
Hi all,

I am at my wits end with my pool (SWG 26,000) gal over the last year of my new house. I had no issues with the pool at my previous home after converting that to saltwater and testing it. I bought this house a year ago. previous owners did not really maintain the pool too well. After buying, I had to replace 3 6 port water valves for the paramount in the floor cleaning system. The SWG was absolutely dead and had to replace that as well. Once I got this resolved, i have had a heck of a time keeping chlorine in the pool. I kept testing with Leslies and listening to them. ( I know better now but was always never had an issue at the last house) and first the CYA was well over 120 and kept draining and adding to get that into range. Then the calcium levels we over 600. (in AZ calcium in water is very high). I did not want to drain the pool anymore as the calcium levels were not dropping that much as I have already drained probably about half the pool just to get the CYA down. So I brainstormed and used a used old water softener to soften the water in the pool. I pumped water from the pool into the WS and back. ran this for a week and had the WS recharge ~1500 gallons. After a week, calcium levels dropped to less that 250. So that was fixed. I thought I was getting better but still kept having to add liquid chlorine almost every week or 2. Winter here starts and just keep filtering it with the SWG on. March comes and start getting the pool ready.

All tests are good but chlorine levels still can not stay up. water is clear and not green nor is any algae growing on the pebble-tec. Over the next month kept adding 2 lbs of shock every week. CL keeps going up and down and FC and TC are within the .2 of each other. I got so mad at this pool, I was this is it I am putting 6 gallons of liquid chlorine in and see what happens BC something is eating the chlorine. I dump 6 gallons in. Over the next 20 min, the pool gets cloudy. after this, I go over to the Reddit r/pools. and that's where I find out about TFP site and about SLAMing my pool that I was doing without realizing it. Over the next week, brush and vacuum daily and it starts to clear up. I clean the filter out and try to maintain the high levels of FC. The pool looks great, but 3 weeks later the FC is 0 again with the SWG running @100% for 18 hours a day. so I SLAM it again and repeat. now the water is clearer than glass and can read the text on the bottom intake from 10 ft way today.

Now the next problem that I have noticed from day one when I bought the house. I thought these dark spots were algae growing on the bottom and it won't brush off or be killed by SLAMing. But looking at the light spots it's around the edge where you can walk. It is still darker in spots you cant walk. The only thing I can think of is the previous owners used graduals and left it on the bottom of the pool and it bleached those areas. Please see the pics and let me know what you think. The camera makes it darker than real life but is still noticeable.
 

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Is your pool plaster (looks like it in the pics)? If so, the staining could be from metals. When you shock a pool (which is needed for algae), you are bringing up your chlorine levels really high, and IF they are metals (iron or copper) in your water, those metals will go from a solution to suspension state and change the water color a green'ish color and then eventually stain your plaster as the metals fall out of the water and adhere to the tiny pores of the plaster itself. You can verify if it's iron staining by dropping a Vitamin-C tablet (buy them anywhere, Amazon, Walmart, Grocery Store, etc.) on a darker spot in the pool. If after 1-10 minutes the stain lightens, or is removed, it's probably iron staining and you'll have to read up on Absorbic Acid treatments (if water is in your pool) or a light (keyword: light) acid wash (if water isn't in your pool).
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

What test kit are you using? Test Kits Compared
Post a full set of test results from one of the recommended kits.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water Temperature

Where in AZ are you? Yeah, it's important to know to give location specific advice.
Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing you with specific help based on your pool without needing to ask you each time.
 
Without a proper test kit and a regular testing regimen, I'm not surprised at all at your results. The only way to know what your pool needs and how often it needs it is to monitor the levels daily until you understand how it behaves with your equipment, water, climate and environment. Could your SWG be undersized? A pool store isn't going to work out so well. The folks here should be able to help you set things straight once you have a good test kit.
 
the last test at Leslie's on 6/6/ still waiting on the Tyler kit to come in sig and profile updated

FC 11.31
CC 11.33
pH 7.6
TA 97
CH 262
CYA 70
Salt 4200
Water Temperature 84 F



Welcome to TFP! :wave:

What test kit are you using? Test Kits Compared
Post a full set of test results from one of the recommended kits.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water Temperature

Where in AZ are you? Yeah, it's important to know to give location specific advice.
Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing you with specific help based on your pool without needing to ask you each time.
 
Is your pool plaster (looks like it in the pics)? If so, the staining could be from metals. When you shock a pool (which is needed for algae), you are bringing up your chlorine levels really high, and IF they are metals (iron or copper) in your water, those metals will go from a solution to suspension state and change the water color a green'ish color and then eventually stain your plaster as the metals fall out of the water and adhere to the tiny pores of the plaster itself. You can verify if it's iron staining by dropping a Vitamin-C tablet (buy them anywhere, Amazon, Walmart, Grocery Store, etc.) on a darker spot in the pool. If after 1-10 minutes the stain lightens, or is removed, it's probably iron staining and you'll have to read up on Absorbic Acid treatments (if water is in your pool) or a light (keyword: light) acid wash (if water isn't in your pool).
yes this was my next step to see.
 
If those LPS results are to be believed (??????), you're numbers are pretty okay. Salt is a little high.

Your Jandy J-SS40 SWG is rated for a 40k pool (run 24 hours/day). You have a 26k pool.
We recommend a SWG sized at least 2x the pool volume. Yours is a bit under sized.
You may have to run the SWG at 100% for over 12 hours per day now - maybe more in the blistering heat of summer.

How many hours per day are you running the pump? Which pump is on the SWG circuit?
How many hours per day are you running the SWG. At what percentage?
 

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If those LPS results are to be believed (??????), you're numbers are pretty okay. Salt is a little high.

Your Jandy J-SS40 SWG is rated for a 40k pool (run 24 hours/day). You have a 26k pool.
We recommend a SWG sized at least 2x the pool volume. Yours is a bit under sized.
You may have to run the SWG at 100% for over 12 hours per day now - maybe more in the blistering heat of summer.

How many hours per day are you running the pump? Which pump is on the SWG circuit?
How many hours per day are you running the SWG. At what percentage?
Right now pool filter runs for 18 hours a day and swg have been in 100%. And still cant keep the chlorine levels up
 
Do you have any indication that the SWG is working? Indicator lights, bubbles/fog in the return?

You want to add 5ppm of chlorine to the pool per day while awaiting your test kit. It might be best to turn off the SWG for now and just use liquid.
 
Do you have any indication that the SWG is working? Indicator lights, bubbles/fog in the return?

You want to add 5ppm of chlorine to the pool per day while awaiting your test kit. It might be best to turn off the SWG for now and just use liquid.
Yes it is. I pumped water that was directly out of the SWG and test strip was dark purple over 10. yes all of these"Indicator lights, bubbles/fog in the return?" its a mew unit less than a year old
 
Is your pool plaster (looks like it in the pics)? If so, the staining could be from metals. When you shock a pool (which is needed for algae), you are bringing up your chlorine levels really high, and IF they are metals (iron or copper) in your water, those metals will go from a solution to suspension state and change the water color a green'ish color and then eventually stain your plaster as the metals fall out of the water and adhere to the tiny pores of the plaster itself. You can verify if it's iron staining by dropping a Vitamin-C tablet (buy them anywhere, Amazon, Walmart, Grocery Store, etc.) on a darker spot in the pool. If after 1-10 minutes the stain lightens, or is removed, it's probably iron staining and you'll have to read up on Absorbic Acid treatments (if water is in your pool) or a light (keyword: light) acid wash (if water isn't in your pool).
Thanks Jesse

This the Vit C worked so I know it is stained now. At least i can wait on this until winter and get the whole pool acid washed.
 
You could also do an Absorbic Acid treatment while there's still water in the pool . Ascorbic Acid Treatment - Further Reading

It states using 1/2 to 1 pound of powder for every 10,000 gallons but I've found it's more like 1-2 pounds of powder for every 10,000 gallons, if the staining is moderate or heavy (this is just MY opinion). If you have more questions, feel free to reach out.
 
Yes it is. I pumped water that was directly out of the SWG and test strip was dark purple over 10. yes all of these"Indicator lights, bubbles/fog in the return?" its a mew unit less than a year old
That's great news. If it's not keeping up, it could be that something is brewing in your water. Acquiring your own test kit will allow you to run the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm that you don't have a bigger issue.
 
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