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You need a proper test kit. Those values are from a Pool Store. Do not rely on those to make large chemistry adjustments.
Texas Splash said:
Most importantly, be sure to test your own water with w TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. Do NOT trust other's testing. It's often wrong.
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Be sure to get a sock(s) soaking with the stabilizer dissolved before you add the liquid chlorine. The stabilizer helps to buffer the harshness of the chlorine. Your iron and copper levels are both right on the edge of being an issue. We'll see how the water reacts once you begin the SLAM Process. Once you get home, just basic stuff:
1 - Add stabilizer via the sock method (CYA goal of 30)
2 - Add the amount of chlorine I noted earlier for now. Read-up on the SLAM Process.

Let us know when your kit arrives.

:goodjob:
 
Also as I noted earlier. the PoolMath APP will help you with an initial dose (i.e. CYA or zero FC), but after that it's all about the testing. So like I said earlier, just add about 1/2 - 3/4 gallons of chlorine each day until the kit arrives. We base all of our anticipated results on those accurate tests.
 
SLAMed the pool. Free Chlorine is staying well above where it needs to be. It's been 24 hours. Not seeing much of a change. Should I be?

Also wondering something else - the tap water here on Long Island is full of Iron. Yes, I have sinned and went to the store to get a metals test (TP-100 is coming this week), and it shows 0.3ppm of Iron and 0.2ppm of Copper. I don't think I have a copper problem, but I am wondering if the Iron is causing the dark color? Maybe I'm reaching and overthinking this. I just can't understand why I haven't seen any changes over the course of 24 hours.
 
You may have increased the FC level, but you haven't fully completed the SLAM Process. You're still waiting on teh test kit correct? Once you get the kit, then post a full set of results from your TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. That will be key. Like I said previously, if you elect to keep that water, you must treat for algae first then metals. Both iron and copper seem to be elevated and close to the limit where they could prove to be challenging, but we'll come back to that after you complete all 3 SLAM criteria. That has to be first.
 
So...

FC CL levels are still really high (15), despite this being a brand new startup (Monday) I cleaned the cartridges yesterday afternoon, I'm brushing, and there's still no visible changes. I'm trying to be patient, but there has been zero movement, and as you can imagine, with a brand new pool, and oppressive heat outside, I'm started to become persona-non-grata with the family.

I know that this takes time, but shouldn't there at least be SOME improvement? I'm under pressure to call in a pro...and I'm resisting, but I need help. And my TF-100 isn't set to arrive until Saturday.

In summary:
8/11 - Fill Deep End (hose/tap)
8/13-14 - Filled the rest of the pool. Green hues/tinges noted in the deep.
8/16 - Pump activation, initial chemicals of salt and algecide put in by installer.
8/17 - 3 gallons of liquid shock; 24lbs of baking soda
8/18 - 1 additional gallon of shock; brushed, ran the robot for a few hours, cleaned the filter in the afternoon.
SWG still running and "boosting"
8/19 - Frustration setting in. Zero changes noted.
 
Frustration is understandable when you're flying blind. Right now you simply can't treat the water properly. As soon as you get the test kit, post a full set of test results and we'll be able to give you accurate guidance. Until then, it's just a waiting game. Not sure how you determined an FC of 15 without a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C (pool store perhaps?), but with no stabilizer let it fall a bit. For now, an FC between 5-10 is adequate until you get the kit.
 
poolmedic244 said:
. . . Yes, I have sinned and went to the store to get a metals test (TP-100 is coming this week), and it shows 0.3ppm of Iron and 0.2ppm of Copper. I don't think I have a copper problem, but I am wondering if the Iron is causing the dark color?
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You have not "sinned". Metal testing is accurate from the pool store and too expensive to do at home. It's the only test that's accurate from the pool store.
poolmedic244 said:
. . . Hopefully that clears things up and then we can re-test and take care of the calcium and stabilizer (CYA) stuff.

Course correct me if I've got something wrong with my plan of action here!
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No added calcium needed. You have a vinyl pool and the water does not leach calcium out of it no matter what the pool store tells you. :rant:
 
TF-100 came today! (yay!). At the same time, flying blind, the pool cleared up big time over the past few days...been vacuming up the clumps of dead algae at the bottom. When you turn the lights on at night, you still see Crud floating around, but it's a massive improvement...just a bit of color (assume Crud) on the walls toward the bottom of the deep end.

Test numbers as follows:

FC - 37
CC - 1.5 (I think!)
CYA - Doesn't register. (Black dot never disappears)
TA - 150 (not sure about this one)
Calcium - 50
Ph - above 8.2

So...I think I've hit the end of my SLAM...

1. Is this the case?
2. how do I bring the balance back in line?
3. What should I set my SWG to? Friday-Sat had it set to boost at 100%, but I think we're done here. It's about to pour from the incoming hurricane.
4. I read that the pH reading is messed up because of the ridiculously high chlorine...is it finally high time to add some stabilizer/CYA?

Thanks again for the help everyone!

P.S. Lest you think that my Chlorine tests are wrong, since this past Tuesday, I've poured in between 14 and 16 gallons of liquid supershock/chlorine. (12.5% bleach)
 

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Good job on the new test kit. You have a few things to do now:
1 - Turn off the SWG. Your FC is way too high with no CYA. It's extremely powerful. Let the FC fall.
2 - Add stabilizer for a CYA goal of about 40 ppm for now. Use the sock method. Do that ASAP.
3 - Your pH appears to be high, but that's because of the extremely high FC, so ignore that for now.
4 - Pay no attention to CH and TA at tis time.
5 - Actually, you are not done with the SLAM Process. Your CCs are still elevated and you have not passed an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test correct?

So be sure the pool is not covered and let the sun hit that water to lower the FC count and oxidize the CC. I wouldn't try and OCLT until the FC falls down to about 20 or below. With good sunlight that shouldn't take too long. But no more chlorine for a few days.
 
In case you need it .....

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
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You mentioned the storm. Be prepared to lower the lower level in advance and monitor it during the storm. You probably won't want water getting too high at the top rail where it could slip behind the liner. Also, if power goes out your FC level is high enough it should get you through a few days.
 
Texas Splash said:
Good job on the new test kit. You have a few things to do now:
1 - Turn off the SWG. Your FC is way too high with no CYA. It's extremely powerful. Let the FC fall.
2 - Add stabilizer for a CYA goal of about 40 ppm for now. Use the sock method. Do that ASAP.
3 - Your pH appears to be high, but that's because of the extremely high FC, so ignore that for now.
4 - Pay no attention to CH and TA at tis time.
5 - Actually, you are not done with the SLAM Process. Your CCs are still elevated and you have not passed an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test correct?

So be sure the pool is not covered and let the sun hit that water to lower the FC count and oxidize the CC. I wouldn't try and OCLT until the FC falls down to about 20 or below. With good sunlight that shouldn't take too long. But no more chlorine for a few days.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Sock method? I tossed some in to dissolve in the bottom of the pool on Friday. Wound up getting vacuumed up into the filter...it will still dissolve...but I'll just have to wait to clean the cartridges.
 
Got it. So I've got a sock loaded and in the skimmer. I'll let that dissolve, measure, and then add more if needed.

I assume that I should leave the pH untreated (I have muratic acid in stock) until the chlorine drops, as we believe that the high chlorine levels are the cause of the pH and this will self-correct?

EDIT: Nevermind. Just re-read your last post...duh...
 
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Ha, correct. Hopefully you will pass an OCLT soon and the CCs will drop to 0.5 or less soon since your water has had an exceptionally high FC level for a while. Then you will technically be done with the SLAM. In the meantime (storm permitting) continue with the inspecting/brushing of the pool so that the chlorine can do its job. Be sure to squeeze that sock and all the stabilizer "mush" should come out quickly. This will place you in a perfect position for closing your pool in the next 30-45 days or so.
 
What a difference a week makes. Water is crystal clear and the kids are loving it. Thank you all. Chlorine levels are still in the really high range (on 8/21 it was 37, yesterday it was 26, this morning I didn't bother and just used the basic Taylor which was still coloring amber instead of yellow). pH is good and the kids aren't complaining (drying skin a bit, but they don't care!).

My question now turns to pump run time. Pool company set the standard run time to be 23 hours/day at 40 GPM (he switched it from RPM to GPM to compensate for then the filter starts to get fuller. Do I reduce the GPM, or reduce the run time? With a 26,500 gallon pool, my math - if it's correct - tells me that I'm completely circulating twice a day.

The guy said that reducing GPM or operating below 1700 RPM isn't really worthwhile...but I'm curious what the thought is here. Feels like I'm wasting a tonne of energy right now...
 
Glad to hear things are going well. As for pump run time, it's mostly personal preference. There is no need to worry about water turnover. That's a pool store thing. You adjust your pump run time based on desired surface skimming, mixing chemicals, and operating your SWG. Oh, and of course a cleaner if needed. That's it. So feel free to adjust it as you wish. The PoolMath APP can help you with projected FC production of your SWG.
 

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