Long SLAM process

Is there anything else below the waterline you haven't been able to inspect either because of lack of time or the water still being too cold to enter? It seemed like last week on the 9th you had a big break in water clarity and no more junk blowing back into the pool, so you should be getting close. Loosing 2 ppm overnight in hours of darkness tells us there is something still active in the water. So add that along with the sun exposure and that would explain a large daytime loss of FC.

I would be very curious about any other potential areas in the pool where algae might hide. Anything? (Light niche, steps, drain cover(s), vacuum port, etc?
I checked my skimmers/weirs all clear. My steps I have not yet put them in the pool, usually wait until SLAM is done. I havent checked behind my light niche and the main drains, I would never be able to get to the deep end to open that up, shallow side I would be able to. So i'm not home during the day for me to be able to keep up with checking every hour or so and topping off to maintain that FC. Should I maintain my FC at 12 now based on my CYA of 30? Seems like my only good fight is durig the evening when I'm home. I stopped adding DE to the filter since I did the deep clean on Sat. I dont know if I should continue with that or just let the filter do its own thing. I usually see the water getting better daily but I have not been seeing that. The one thing i do see is at night with the light one there is way more less particles floating around and the beam looks less cloudy.
 
So I came home from work tested. My FC was 8.5 and CC 2 with PH 7.8
I added MA to bring down PH
Retested an hour later PH is 7.2 and FC 8.5 and CC 1
Is that possible that my readings changed just by lowering the PH?
 
After passing overnight test is there a certain order in which you have to adjust your other parameters like PH, CH if they need adjusting? Or any order is fine and waiting the 30 min between adding anything is fine?
 
After passing overnight test is there a certain order in which you have to adjust your other parameters like PH, CH if they need adjusting? Or any order is fine and waiting the 30 min between adding anything is fine?
Once the SLAM is complete, first order of business is to allow the FC to fall back down below 10. At that point you can confirm the pH. Anything else like TA, CYA, and CH can also be tested and adjusted as necessary.
 
Some confusion with testing.
I added at around 5:50pm for 1 gallon of bleach to bring my FC from 10.5 to 16. Now about 2 1/2 hrs later Im retesting & got a reading of FC 20.5 and CC 0
I did a quick second test and got FC 17.5 and Cc of 0.5
Is it normal to see a fluctuation in testing?
 
With lots of drops being dropped, there are lots of ways testing errors can be introduced. Not holding the bottle vertical. Squeezing hard and forcing the drops out vs. squeezing lightly and letting the drops fall from their own weight, testing vials that have not been properly cleaned (I clean with alcohol after every use).

Do you have a smart stir? This takes lots of testing errors out too and makes tests more repeatable.
 
With lots of drops being dropped, there are lots of ways testing errors can be introduced. Not holding the bottle vertical. Squeezing hard and forcing the drops out vs. squeezing lightly and letting the drops fall from their own weight, testing vials that have not been properly cleaned (I clean with alcohol after every use).

Do you have a smart stir? This takes lots of testing errors out too and makes tests more repeatable.
I recently cleaned my vial over the weekend with some bleach as I read on the site.
I wipe the tip of the dropper with a wet paper towel and I squeeze the bottle and allow the drops to come out and kinda build up at the tip a then allow it to drip. I don’t have a smart stir.
 
I don’t have a smart stir.
With normal FC range 0-10, drop test is +/- 1 drop accurate. At 20 FC, likely +/- 2 drops. Smart stir would eliminate the other part of the difference I suspect.

My brother, who owned a pool for 30 years came to visit. We did back to back FC test comparison, me with smart stir, him swirling. His results were 1ppm higher. And that was when my FC was about 6. Smart stir makes the mixing of chemicals consistent.
 
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With normal FC range 0-10, drop test is +/- 1 drop accurate. At 20 FC, likely +/- 2 drops. Smart stir would eliminate the other part of the difference I suspect.

My brother, who owned a pool for 30 years came to visit. We did back to back FC test comparison, me with smart stir, him swirling. His results were 1ppm higher. And that was when my FC was about 6. Smart stir makes the mixing of chemicals consistent.
I also did the back to back test right after I had vacuumed. Not sure if that could’ve caused any difference. I do always take my sample from the same spot at the pool an go elbow deep an then flip the test vial upright to fill it while under then take it out and pour out the excess into the pool to get my 10ml.
 

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I also did the back to back test right after I had vacuumed. Not sure if that could’ve caused any difference. I do always take my sample from the same spot at the pool an go elbow deep an then flip the test vial upright to fill it while under then take it out and pour out the excess into the pool to get my 10ml.
I do the same, except I have one of the Pool Store squeeze bottles. Fill that up. Then fill the vials with the squeeze squirt bottle. All good.

Smart Stir is a game changer.
 
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What should I now go by tomorrow AM when I run my test to compare whether I loss 1ppm or less 🫣
Take your time. Let them drop. Swirl a couple times, next drop. Rinse, repeat. Be consistent in test method tonight and tomorrow morning. You'll be fine.

You Got This Good Luck Today GIF by MOODMAN
 
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Take your time. Let them drop. Swirl a couple times, next drop. Rinse, repeat. Be consistent in test method tonight and tomorrow morning. You'll be fine.

You Got This Good Luck Today GIF by MOODMAN
Upon checking this 6:26 AM my FC was 20 & CC 0
By noon 6 hrs later I was at 13.5
Is that normal that I would loose 6.5 ppm in 6 hr window?
CC also went up and holding at 0.5
 
Upon checking this 6:26 AM my FC was 20 & CC 0
By noon 6 hrs later I was at 13.5
Is that normal that I would loose 6.5 ppm in 6 hr window?
CC also went up and holding at 0.5
Yep, you are killing the algae. The more often you can check and add the better...even every two hours.
 
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Does pollen wreak havoc on pool clarity? My current test reveals 0 CC. Though during the afternoon I noticed a haze in the clarity Todays been windy and I can tell the wind was blowing away from my skimmers so I end up seeing this by the steps, pollen looks like cotton when I scoop it out.
 

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Good morning all,
Need some guidance. CYA 30 my Slam FC is 12.
Yesterday 730am I had an FC of 12.5 CC 0 before leaving for work I dosed 48 oz of bleach to bring it up by 2ppm since I would be at work all day.
Arrived home at 5pm FC 9 CC 0. I added 71 oz of bleach to get her back to 12. Then 30 min. Later I had FC 14 CC 0. Then 3 hours later I had FC 14 and CC 0. Checked again 2 hrs later FC 13.5 and CC 0.
Finally this AM my reading was FC 13 and CC 0. Should I consider this as me passing my overnight test? I’ve been running 0 CC the past 3 days.
 
That depends on when the last test the night before was. When I do OCLT's I'm very time sensitive so my final test will be at like 8:30pm zero sun & next morning 4:30am-5am no sun.
 
Arrived home at 5pm FC 9 CC 0. I added 71 oz of bleach to get her back to 12. Then 30 min. Later I had FC 14 CC 0. Then 3 hours later I had FC 14 and CC 0. Checked again 2 hrs later FC 13.5 and CC 0.
Finally this AM my reading was FC 13 and CC 0. Should I consider this as me passing my overnight test? I’ve been running 0 CC the past 3 days.
5pm + 30 min + 3hr + 2hr = 10:30pm...certainly after sundown. 13.5
AM = 13
OCLT = .5 <= 1FC loss...so yes, if the timing and results are accurate...

Way to go!

Now the big question is the pool CLEAR, no nothing, no poofs when you brush, nothing on the bottom that clouds when you brush
 
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