Logical help needed with my pool numbers


Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
Spring Valley, NY
Just uncovered my pool from the winter and here are the numbers.
PH-8.2 or more
CH-100 low
My first question is pH of 8.2 and a TA of 60. Do I attack the 60 and bring it up first or do I attack the pH 8.2 and bring it down and how's that going to affect my TA.
For my CYA I will be using chlorine stabilizer in the granulated form.
The water is still cold somewhere in the 50s so do I wait till it warms up or do I do it all now.
Lastly, what would be the sequence or order that I would do the chemical balancing.
Thanks in advance, Allan
Last edited:

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Allan, let's confirm first .... has the water been mixing for a while with the pump on when you grabbed that water sample? If so, great. Just needed to confirm. If that's the case, I would:
- Because your water is still in the 50s, and your pH is elevated to compensate for a low CH, you could actually maintain a pH of about 8.2 and be in good shape. In fact, I would move the pH in very slow stages to ensure you do not go below 8.0 for that very reason unless you plan on adding CH anytime soon. I used the PoolMath tool to ensure your numbers would maintain a healthy csi level for your plaster. Now once the water begins to warm up, the pH will need to come down a bit, but for now, just make sure you can read it accurately around 8.0-8.2. If you decide to make other chemical changes, refer back to the PoolMath tool.

For algae control, add some bleach to the water with an FC goal of 10 for now BEFORE adding any stabilizer. Check the FC again in about 10 minutes or so. As long as it didn't drop below 5, you can then add stabilizer and balance the FC & CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Chart. If the FC crashed on the first dose of bleach, increase it right away and repeat until it holds then add the stabilizer.

Let that all mix real good for a while and re-test/adjust as needed. Hope that helps.


TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 6, 2010
San Dimas, CA (LA County)
First thing I would do is test for ammonia since all the CYA is gone. To do that
1) Raise FC to 10 and let it mix well for half an hour. Brushing helps.
2) Retest FC & CC. If FC is less than 5 and CC has grown significantly, you have ammonia.
3) Alternately, buy an ammonia test kit at a pet store that sells aquarium supplies.

If you have a lot of ammonia, it might be cheaper to replace water.

If you have no ammonia, then calculate the acid dose to lower pH and add it. Then go mess with a sock and CYA granules. That should keep you busy for fifteen minutes or more. Then recheck pH and redose as needed.

When pH is good and CYA is started dissolving, add bleach. Only you know what the water looks like right now. If it's green, that means target 30 CYA and SLAM. After the SLAm, you can raise it. If it looks okay, target 40 or 50 CYA.

60 TA is fine. Only raise it if it gets to 50 or less.

I wouldn't add any Calcium until everything else is done. If you have algae, you'll be backwashing a lot and losing water. Why add Calcium to wash it away in a day?
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