- Dec 30, 2020
- 316
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
View attachment 366870
Going back to surface corrosion. It did clean up but upon further investigation I found my pool zinc not grounded.
I do have a bonding grid and wire and then a grounding wire for all the pool equipment. I also noticed that my Pentair mini led light converter box is not grounded as well. Everything else is though. Should I have him come back hook anode to bonding wire and light box to ground?The sacrificial zinc anode is unnecessary but designed to be connected to the pool bonding grid, not grounded. If it is not electrically connected to the pool water with will definitely do nothing.
I do have a bonding grid and wire and then a grounding wire for all the pool equipment. I also noticed that my Pentair mini led light converter box is not grounded as well.
Everything else is though. Should I have him come back hook anode to bonding wire and light box to ground?
I don't know what a Pentair mini led light converter box is and if you are really missing a ground or a bond.
With the bonding wire connection the anode is a paper weight.
Just read that the lights do not need to be bonded or grounded. But I am not sure I follow you anode. There are two copper wires. One that comes off the grid and another for everything else. Where should it’s ground wire be hooked up to to work?I don't know what a Pentair mini led light converter box is and if you are really missing a ground or a bond.
With the bonding wire connection the anode is a paper weight.
But I am not sure I follow you anode. There are two copper wires. One that comes off the grid and another for everything else. Where should it’s ground wire be hooked up to to work?
I see one copper coil with a bonding lug at the end.
You keep on saying ground and the anode will do nothing if grounded.
Read here how it works...
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Sacrificial Zinc Anode | Sacrificial Anode for Salt Water Installation
A sacrificial zinc anode for salt water pools will help protect metal in your salt water pool from corrosion and other damage.www.saltwaterpoolandspa.com
It must be electrically connected through the bonding grid to anything the anode will protect.
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View attachment 366900
I would have it connected to this bonding wire coming off the grid. There is a separate wire that grounds the pool equipment.
No it looks like there is a second wire and ground rod that the pool equipment go to.Is the pool equipment connected to the bonding wire?
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Bonding vs Grounding
Electricity and water don't mix. Learn a few basic tips how to keep your family safe when dealing with electricity around your pool.www.troublefreepool.com
No it looks like there is a second wire and ground rod that the pool equipment go to.
Ok I will, they might connect together. I will look and get pics tomorrow. I thought he said there was two rods but there might be one and everything bonded together.That does not sound correct. Pool equipment should not be grounded to a ground rod. The equipment use the normal house electrical grounds in their electrical connections running back to the house main panel.
The pool equipment should all be bonded together with the pool.
Is there an electrical inspection that your pool needs to pass?
Post pics of what you have.
I went and looked this morning. The bonding wire comes into the pool equipment area and has a ground rod and then the pool equipment links into the wire and rod and goes about five foot over to another ground rod. So that looks to be ok minus the anode not being hooked up.That does not sound correct. Pool equipment should not be grounded to a ground rod. The equipment use the normal house electrical grounds in their electrical connections running back to the house main panel.
The pool equipment should all be bonded together with the pool.
Is there an electrical inspection that your pool needs to pass?
Post pics of what you have.
Ok here is where I am at after doing all the tests a time or two to get the hang of it. My FC was at 7ppm when my cell was at 60% and 12 hour run time so I lowered to 40% and now at 5.5 consistently still at 12 hour run time. Any recommendations? Is FC still too high?
FC 5.5
CC 0
CYA 40*
Alk TA 40
CH 50
PH 7.2
Salt 4000
*This test is hard I have great eye sight and when staring at waist level I lose it completely at 50-40. Should I just glance as some do?
Ok I will monitor the TA and PH for now. From what I have read since my pool is vinyl the CH being low is ok? I will check the CYA again before doing anything. It might be higher if I glance instead of intensely stare. As for the salt will that come down with use? Ie evaporation, splashing?Your FC is fine. Too high si better then too low.
Your TA is on the low side. Don't increase your TA or pH but monitor it. It should naturally rise.
The CYA test is subjective and does not need to be very precise. 40 or 50 is ok for you right now. After 30 days increase your CYA to 60-70.
Salt is on the high side. Let it drift down to 3200-3600.
I redid test with just glancing and cya is probably closer to 50 than 40. Not sure how this was achieved because this was a new pool and the pool start up guy only added two pucks to skimmer of some sort of chlorine puck and something to boost TA from what he told me and set SWG to boost mode. Which I have now adjusted to 40% for 12 hours to get the 5.5 FC. Initially 7 FC at 60%.Your CH of 50 is ok for your liner.
Salt only comes down from draining or splashout, not evaporation.
Glance and don't intensely stare for the CYA test dot.
CYA Testing - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Set at 40% from 7am to 7pm. Pool gets full sun.CYA of 50 is fine with a FC of 5 with your SWG running.
What % do you have your IC40 set at?
Enjoy your labor day trip.