Little help until my TF100 kit arrives. Temp using a strip.

View attachment 366870
Going back to surface corrosion. It did clean up but upon further investigation I found my pool zinc not grounded.

The sacrificial zinc anode is unnecessary but designed to be connected to the pool bonding grid, not grounded. If it is not electrically connected to the pool water with will definitely do nothing.
 
The sacrificial zinc anode is unnecessary but designed to be connected to the pool bonding grid, not grounded. If it is not electrically connected to the pool water with will definitely do nothing.
I do have a bonding grid and wire and then a grounding wire for all the pool equipment. I also noticed that my Pentair mini led light converter box is not grounded as well. Everything else is though. Should I have him come back hook anode to bonding wire and light box to ground?
 
I do have a bonding grid and wire and then a grounding wire for all the pool equipment. I also noticed that my Pentair mini led light converter box is not grounded as well.

I don't know what a Pentair mini led light converter box is and if you are really missing a ground or a bond.

Everything else is though. Should I have him come back hook anode to bonding wire and light box to ground?

With the bonding wire connection the anode is a paper weight.
 
I don't know what a Pentair mini led light converter box is and if you are really missing a ground or a bond.



With the bonding wire connection the anode is a paper weight.
I don't know what a Pentair mini led light converter box is and if you are really missing a ground or a bond.



With the bonding wire connection the anode is a paper weight.
Just read that the lights do not need to be bonded or grounded. But I am not sure I follow you anode. There are two copper wires. One that comes off the grid and another for everything else. Where should it’s ground wire be hooked up to to work?
 
But I am not sure I follow you anode. There are two copper wires. One that comes off the grid and another for everything else. Where should it’s ground wire be hooked up to to work?

I see one copper coil with a bonding lug at the end.

You keep on saying ground and the anode will do nothing if grounded.

Read here how it works...


It must be electrically connected through the bonding grid to anything the anode will protect.

f002ecd3-f965-4340-96a8-dcfd84051e2f-jpeg.366870
 
I see one copper coil with a bonding lug at the end.

You keep on saying ground and the anode will do nothing if grounded.

Read here how it works...


It must be electrically connected through the bonding grid to anything the anode will protect.

f002ecd3-f965-4340-96a8-dcfd84051e2f-jpeg.366870
0A50C72C-2E2C-4F49-82F4-CB117724CB27.jpg
I would have it connected to this bonding wire coming off the grid. There is a separate wire that grounds the pool equipment.
 
View attachment 366900
I would have it connected to this bonding wire coming off the grid. There is a separate wire that grounds the pool equipment.

Is the pool equipment connected to the bonding wire?

 
Is the pool equipment connected to the bonding wire?

No it looks like there is a second wire and ground rod that the pool equipment go to.
 

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No it looks like there is a second wire and ground rod that the pool equipment go to.

That does not sound correct. Pool equipment should not be grounded to a ground rod. The equipment use the normal house electrical grounds in their electrical connections running back to the house main panel.

The pool equipment should all be bonded together with the pool.

Is there an electrical inspection that your pool needs to pass?

Post pics of what you have.
 
That does not sound correct. Pool equipment should not be grounded to a ground rod. The equipment use the normal house electrical grounds in their electrical connections running back to the house main panel.

The pool equipment should all be bonded together with the pool.

Is there an electrical inspection that your pool needs to pass?

Post pics of what you have.
Ok I will, they might connect together. I will look and get pics tomorrow. I thought he said there was two rods but there might be one and everything bonded together.
 
That does not sound correct. Pool equipment should not be grounded to a ground rod. The equipment use the normal house electrical grounds in their electrical connections running back to the house main panel.

The pool equipment should all be bonded together with the pool.

Is there an electrical inspection that your pool needs to pass?

Post pics of what you have.
I went and looked this morning. The bonding wire comes into the pool equipment area and has a ground rod and then the pool equipment links into the wire and rod and goes about five foot over to another ground rod. So that looks to be ok minus the anode not being hooked up.
On the bright side my test kit shipped today ahead of schedule. Looking forward to reporting back actual reliable info.
 
Ok here is where I am at after doing all the tests a time or two to get the hang of it. My FC was at 7ppm when my cell was at 60% and 12 hour run time so I lowered to 40% and now at 5.5 consistently still at 12 hour run time. Any recommendations? Is FC still too high?

FC 5.5
CC 0
CYA 40*
Alk TA 40
CH 50
PH 7.2
Salt 4000

*This test is hard I have great eye sight and when staring at waist level I lose it completely at 50-40. Should I just glance as some do?
 
Ok here is where I am at after doing all the tests a time or two to get the hang of it. My FC was at 7ppm when my cell was at 60% and 12 hour run time so I lowered to 40% and now at 5.5 consistently still at 12 hour run time. Any recommendations? Is FC still too high?

FC 5.5
CC 0
CYA 40*
Alk TA 40
CH 50
PH 7.2
Salt 4000

*This test is hard I have great eye sight and when staring at waist level I lose it completely at 50-40. Should I just glance as some do?

Your FC is fine. Too high si better then too low.

Your TA is on the low side. Don't increase your TA or pH but monitor it. It should naturally rise.

The CYA test is subjective and does not need to be very precise. 40 or 50 is ok for you right now. After 30 days increase your CYA to 60-70.

Salt is on the high side. Let it drift down to 3200-3600.
 
Your FC is fine. Too high si better then too low.

Your TA is on the low side. Don't increase your TA or pH but monitor it. It should naturally rise.

The CYA test is subjective and does not need to be very precise. 40 or 50 is ok for you right now. After 30 days increase your CYA to 60-70.

Salt is on the high side. Let it drift down to 3200-3600.
Ok I will monitor the TA and PH for now. From what I have read since my pool is vinyl the CH being low is ok? I will check the CYA again before doing anything. It might be higher if I glance instead of intensely stare. As for the salt will that come down with use? Ie evaporation, splashing?
 
Your CH of 50 is ok for your liner.

Salt only comes down from draining or splashout, not evaporation.

Glance and don't intensely stare for the CYA test dot.

 
Your CH of 50 is ok for your liner.

Salt only comes down from draining or splashout, not evaporation.

Glance and don't intensely stare for the CYA test dot.

I redid test with just glancing and cya is probably closer to 50 than 40. Not sure how this was achieved because this was a new pool and the pool start up guy only added two pucks to skimmer of some sort of chlorine puck and something to boost TA from what he told me and set SWG to boost mode. Which I have now adjusted to 40% for 12 hours to get the 5.5 FC. Initially 7 FC at 60%.

I I totally added salt two days before SWG was active and let it circulate. Probably why I added 1 bag too many.

I tested FC around 6PM yesterday and it was 5.5 and test tested at 7AM this morning and it was 5PPM.
Should I just to continue to hold and monitor? Going out of town for Labor Day weekend.
 
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CYA of 50 is fine with a FC of 5 with your SWG running.

What % do you have your IC40 set at?

Enjoy your labor day trip.
 

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