I'm really at a loss here... We have pools with solar (30 feet higher then the LQ works great). How high is your pool? Barnyard or Miranda do you have any other check valves In Your plumbing to keep prime? Just curious??
Liquidator installed below pool level
- Thread starter brywisco
- Start date
My pool is only a 4 ft pool. The middle is dug out, but the pump and LQ are only at grade to the wall, so about 4 ft or so.
The kit arrived with 2 check valves. I only installed the one on the out side. I have both of them on my bench now, and the one that was installed yesterday can be blown through in both directions. The one that wasn't installed can only be blown through in the one direction, so it definitely failed. I can only think that solar panels installed above the LQ would not have the pressure or volume of water pressing on the check valve that a full pool would have. That seems to be the common factor here. But, when you look at the construction of a check valve, it would seem that increased pressure from the non flowing end would only increase the sealing pressure, making it seal better. There is where I am confused. The valves are sticking open for some reason and not sealing. It makes my little brain hurt trying to figure out why. I am still waiting to hear from other ABG pool owners using the LQ with other than the original check valves. Like I said before, I re-installed the original check valve, and while I am not happy with the flow rate of it, I am curious to see if HASA might have known more than we are giving them credit for.
I forgot answer the rest of your question. I do not have any other check valves installed to keep prime. My setup primes itsself
The kit arrived with 2 check valves. I only installed the one on the out side. I have both of them on my bench now, and the one that was installed yesterday can be blown through in both directions. The one that wasn't installed can only be blown through in the one direction, so it definitely failed. I can only think that solar panels installed above the LQ would not have the pressure or volume of water pressing on the check valve that a full pool would have. That seems to be the common factor here. But, when you look at the construction of a check valve, it would seem that increased pressure from the non flowing end would only increase the sealing pressure, making it seal better. There is where I am confused. The valves are sticking open for some reason and not sealing. It makes my little brain hurt trying to figure out why. I am still waiting to hear from other ABG pool owners using the LQ with other than the original check valves. Like I said before, I re-installed the original check valve, and while I am not happy with the flow rate of it, I am curious to see if HASA might have known more than we are giving them credit for.
I forgot answer the rest of your question. I do not have any other check valves installed to keep prime. My setup primes itsself
I've been using the LQ with a modified Rabbit's upgrade and it's never overflowed. Those black SMC check valves (which are what I'm using) are designed for 140 PSI, so the pool doesn't have nearly enough pressure to overcome the design. The height of water above the check valve is the detemining factor of how much pressure the valve sees.
The volume of water has nothing to do with the head pressure. Every 2 feet of water produces about 1PSI. It doesn't matter how large the pipe or vessel is. A 1/2" pipe 10 foot high produces the same pressure as a 20' diamter pipe 10' high.
The volume of water has nothing to do with the head pressure. Every 2 feet of water produces about 1PSI. It doesn't matter how large the pipe or vessel is. A 1/2" pipe 10 foot high produces the same pressure as a 20' diamter pipe 10' high.
Well then, I have no more ideas. There has to be an explanation. The original held overnight, no problems. It had been used before so I cant say it works because it is new. I am not done with this just yet. It has become a personal thing with me now 
I really want to get the flow rate up. Miranda, how are you doing?
I really want to get the flow rate up. Miranda, how are you doing?salp said:
Here is my setup. It appears to be a normal ABG setup, at least as normal as I have had in over 24 years or so. You can notice that I have had to partially close my skimmer valve just to get about 3 on the flowmeter. That is the part I don't like. The other valves made that unnecessary. Right now, I have all 1/4 hose, the push in flow valve, push in adaptors to the flowmeter, I stretched the 1/4 hose to fit over the 3/8 barb on the drain plug of the pump basket and now the original check valve.
Oh, and Bama, just for you ......... I didn't snip off the ends of the tywraps around the flowmeter.
It was raining yesterday as I was working on things and I really didn't dress things up as I would have liked to.Attachments
Looks good.... Is that a plug just below the elbow prior to going into the pump? Did you have the LQ return there first?
Yeah, I had first installed the saddle valve that came with the LQ there. When I went to use the pump drain, I drilled and tapped that hole and used the pump drain plug to seal it until I replace the pipe, probably next spring or so.
How many different check valves have you used?
The between yours and mine is that the flow valve and check valve is on the opposite side of the flow meter. They're between the pump and the flow meter instead of between the flow meter and the LQ. Since the valve is below the water line there shoud be plenty of back pressure to keep the valve closed even if the spring didn't (which it would).
The between yours and mine is that the flow valve and check valve is on the opposite side of the flow meter. They're between the pump and the flow meter instead of between the flow meter and the LQ. Since the valve is below the water line there shoud be plenty of back pressure to keep the valve closed even if the spring didn't (which it would).
I have used the original check valves, the US plastic check valves and now Sal and Bruce's check valves ..... sorry, couldn't find a mfg name on them I don't believe.
Whether the LQ ever worked is a source of confusion for me. I can't remember checking on it every night after the pump shut off. I was normally at work by the time the pump timer turned everything on also. I can't remember it overflowing before I did the 3/8 upgrade, but that doesn't mean it didn't.
I was just out relaxing by the pool (isn't that why we have them?????) and I heard a buzzing sound from the pump area. It was a different sound that what I am used to. I walked over and it was the check valve .... the original one. I picked it up and tilted it one way and then the next and the buzzing stopped. I have NO IDEA what to make of that.
I looked up some other types of check valves and I might try some of them. Here are a couple I have looked at:
http://burnhydrox.com/shop/index.php?ma ... ducts_id=5
http://www.ark-plas.com/products/produc ... ortStart=2
Anyone know anything about these?
That youtube video of me smashing this thing with an axe is getting closer by the minute.
Whether the LQ ever worked is a source of confusion for me. I can't remember checking on it every night after the pump shut off. I was normally at work by the time the pump timer turned everything on also. I can't remember it overflowing before I did the 3/8 upgrade, but that doesn't mean it didn't.
I was just out relaxing by the pool (isn't that why we have them?????) and I heard a buzzing sound from the pump area. It was a different sound that what I am used to. I walked over and it was the check valve .... the original one. I picked it up and tilted it one way and then the next and the buzzing stopped. I have NO IDEA what to make of that.
I looked up some other types of check valves and I might try some of them. Here are a couple I have looked at:
http://burnhydrox.com/shop/index.php?ma ... ducts_id=5
http://www.ark-plas.com/products/produc ... ortStart=2
Anyone know anything about these?
That youtube video of me smashing this thing with an axe is getting closer by the minute.
Just before you smash it with an axe swap the flow and check valves to the other side of the flow meter.
ok. I cant imagine what difference that would make, but I am up for anything. I will give that a try probably tomorrow. If you are right, I will owe you an adult beverage of your choice.
I am about ready to start drinking heavily and forget about this thing. I just went down to the pump and it is overflowing again. This is withe the original check valve. I am back to square one.
Sorry barnyard....mines working great on an AG using the upgrade parts exclusively, check valves installed per instructions...sorry you are having issues....although I am fine with your coping skills... 
Really, I hope you can find a solution to the problems you are having. This thing has been a godsend for me....other than trying to fiddle with the flow to get it just right, I'm loving it....
Today I began vacation experiment. Filled er up on Sunday...gonna leave it alone until Saturday afternoon to see how it does...make adjustments from there.
Really, I hope you can find a solution to the problems you are having. This thing has been a godsend for me....other than trying to fiddle with the flow to get it just right, I'm loving it....
Today I began vacation experiment. Filled er up on Sunday...gonna leave it alone until Saturday afternoon to see how it does...make adjustments from there.
Poolgirl, I am glad to hear yours is working good for you. I did follow your thread closely while you were doing it. And my coping skills have been honed over many years of kids, jobs and general life frustration.
If I can ask, what are your Ph, TA and Ch #'s? The only thing I can think of is that it is my water chemistry is giving my check valves a fit. The LQ manual states that the TA should be below 100 and that Ph should be around 7.2. I have high Ch, probably due to using cal hypo for so many years. It is down to around 400 from about 500 or so about 6 weeks ago. My Ph has been hovering around 7.5. I will be getting that down this afternoon. TA is below 100, around 70.
One other clue I have about the high Ch being a problem was when I acid washed the float valves, I got not bubbling action, and it really didn't seem to do much to clean them off. They really weren't that coated with WS and they never had failed to operate, so it could have just been that they didn't need the acid wash. I used some CLR on the outside of the float valves and it cleaned the white 'film' off better than the acid wash. Now, I am not a chemist by any means, so can someone confirm to me that the CLR would wash off calcium, but the acid wash wouldn't? Maybe I am starting to veer off in the wrong direction here, but I am at a loss as to what is going on and am willing to try anything within reason. If it turns out to be calcium, then I will probably disconnect and store the unit until next year when hopefully my CH numbers will be down to reason.
If I can ask, what are your Ph, TA and Ch #'s? The only thing I can think of is that it is my water chemistry is giving my check valves a fit. The LQ manual states that the TA should be below 100 and that Ph should be around 7.2. I have high Ch, probably due to using cal hypo for so many years. It is down to around 400 from about 500 or so about 6 weeks ago. My Ph has been hovering around 7.5. I will be getting that down this afternoon. TA is below 100, around 70.
One other clue I have about the high Ch being a problem was when I acid washed the float valves, I got not bubbling action, and it really didn't seem to do much to clean them off. They really weren't that coated with WS and they never had failed to operate, so it could have just been that they didn't need the acid wash. I used some CLR on the outside of the float valves and it cleaned the white 'film' off better than the acid wash. Now, I am not a chemist by any means, so can someone confirm to me that the CLR would wash off calcium, but the acid wash wouldn't? Maybe I am starting to veer off in the wrong direction here, but I am at a loss as to what is going on and am willing to try anything within reason. If it turns out to be calcium, then I will probably disconnect and store the unit until next year when hopefully my CH numbers will be down to reason.
My Ph runs from 7.3 to 7.6 usually, but I think I get some aeration continually where my jet is located for bet circulation. TA is 80-100. CH...I havent checked in awhile but it was around 300 last time I did.
I've been out of town for 5 days, so I haven't fooled with mine. Before I left the last thing I did was change to a stiffer spring, which seems to have stopped the overflowing, but also reduced the max flow rate to 2-3, so this is not a satisfactory long term solution for me. My setup is fairly similar to barnyards except my check valve is between the flowmeter and the pump. My pool is 4' deep also, with the pump up on blocks 1' above grade (3' below water level) and no other check valves, no heater, no solar, no nothing, just filter and pump.
As far as the tilting, I haven't yet experimented with the orientation of the check valve but wondered if that would make a difference. Mine has always been positioned vertically with the flow arrow pointing downward. I don't know if repositioning it so it is horizontal, or with the flow arrow up would make any difference (using gravity to assist in keeping it closed?)
As for pool chemistry, my CH is only 50 so in my case that can't be blamed, I have never had the white stuff and all my parts are brand new. The main difference between me and barnyard is that none of the check valves I have tried *appear* to be defective (you can only blow through them one way) yet they randomly allow backflow, causing overflow.
As far as the tilting, I haven't yet experimented with the orientation of the check valve but wondered if that would make a difference. Mine has always been positioned vertically with the flow arrow pointing downward. I don't know if repositioning it so it is horizontal, or with the flow arrow up would make any difference (using gravity to assist in keeping it closed?)
As for pool chemistry, my CH is only 50 so in my case that can't be blamed, I have never had the white stuff and all my parts are brand new. The main difference between me and barnyard is that none of the check valves I have tried *appear* to be defective (you can only blow through them one way) yet they randomly allow backflow, causing overflow.