I'm currently refilling our approx 23k gal indoor pool after replacing the old vinyl liner. I see previous threads that have links to information on the site, but the links all go back to the blog homepage. Any help would be appreciated.
Liner replacement (indoors) and new water chemistry
- Thread starter jeremy
- Start date
Hey Jeremy !! You can test your fill water to get an idea but we are fortunate here and the municipal water is already pool friendly.
You won't have any CYA, or the usual need to use it as a UV protectant being indoors but will want 30 anyway for bather comfort. FC is a little harsh without it. You're also fortunate as this is the only time you'll know it's actually zero so it makes for a one and done add. Down the road a 20 or less reads questionable at best and you have to add 10 at a time until you see 30.
Your TA and PH will be close enough to start. Fix the PH and as you manage it over time the TA will move to its happy place.
CH is all but irrelevant with vinyl. Add to 100-150 after getting your baseline. There will be some in the fill water but likely not much.
Follow the FC/CYA Levels religiously. Target range is designed to give you a days worth of FC burnoff so you still are above minimum tomorrow. With an indoor pool you'll keep your FC much longer and only loose it to swimmers if you never get close to minimum.
Ask away at any time.
You won't have any CYA, or the usual need to use it as a UV protectant being indoors but will want 30 anyway for bather comfort. FC is a little harsh without it. You're also fortunate as this is the only time you'll know it's actually zero so it makes for a one and done add. Down the road a 20 or less reads questionable at best and you have to add 10 at a time until you see 30.
Your TA and PH will be close enough to start. Fix the PH and as you manage it over time the TA will move to its happy place.
CH is all but irrelevant with vinyl. Add to 100-150 after getting your baseline. There will be some in the fill water but likely not much.
Follow the FC/CYA Levels religiously. Target range is designed to give you a days worth of FC burnoff so you still are above minimum tomorrow. With an indoor pool you'll keep your FC much longer and only loose it to swimmers if you never get close to minimum.
Ask away at any time.
Excellent info! Just ordered some 100% CYA from amazon and was planning to get it to 40 based on the chart, but if 30 is sufficient for indoors, I'll target that.
Regarding CH, what's the best product option around, and approx how much should I need to target 100-150?
Lastly, all the blog links I see on the site link back to Home when I click on them in Chrome browser.
Maybe it's just me...
Regarding CH, what's the best product option around, and approx how much should I need to target 100-150?
Lastly, all the blog links I see on the site link back to Home when I click on them in Chrome browser.
Maybe it's just me...
Puritech is a go to brand on Amazon. HD/Lowes/Walmart may have some leftover from last year in the pool area in the outdoor garden center. Always make sure its 100% Calcium Chloride on the label.
21 lbs will get you +100 per poolmath. You can wait and see if you only need 10lbs, or just get 25 lbs now to have leftovers.
Download the app for free and plug in your #s to get how much, and of what, for any #s. Once full, see how much you have to know how much you'll want to add.
The site has been around for ages and if you're seeing an old link from the '00s or 10s it may no longer work. Head on over to the various sub sections of the forums for more current stuffs. There's always fresh discussions going on with new members and the newer links should work. Here are some to get you started.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Recommended Levels
- May 3, 2014
- 58,460
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Cannot see articles from desktop/laptop?
When I'm using your website on my laptop (via google chrome) I cannot open the pool school articles not the pool math page. When I click on the menu selection or from the home page it just opens the home page again. I've searched it thru google and thru your own search on the home page...it...
www.troublefreepool.com
The thread above others had issues, but all were resolved. If you have continuing issues, @Leebo can assist.
Thanks. It appears that I am having the same issue - links work when not logged in, but when logged in they all redirect to the blog homepage
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,765
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Click on the hamburger menu at the top & click pool school- this should get u started while the kinks are worked out with the links.
The pool builder suggested adding some kind of mineral remover for iron. Said it’s the cause of the skimmer boxes turning yellow(ish). Any suggestions?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,460
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You can sequester iron but not remove it with chemicals. You must continue to use the sequestrant on a regular basis as it is consumed by chlorine.
What level of iron is in your fill water?
What level of iron is in your fill water?
TA is 40 and PH is around 6.8. Does that make sense? I just added CYA and calcium a little while ago if that makes any difference.
Sure does. Low TA is easy and cheap. 10 lbs of baking soda will get you to 70 to start per pool math. After that it will do it's own thing. Bjs Costco has 13lbs for $7 next to the flour.
The baking soda may raise the PH a little and put you in range. If not, 20 mule borax from the laundry aisle is $4 for 4 lbs. Under 6.8 always reads 6.8 so you don't know if you're actually 6.8 or a 6.2 or 5.X. add from 6.8, mix for 20 mins and check again. Repeat as necessary.
Nope. Just give each add 20-30 mins to mix. Some don't mind each other but others do. Chlorine for example. Never ever mix various forms of Chlorine (liquid / pucks / shock) and be extra sure any common bucket is well rinsed.
Amazing. I just so happen to have that very bag on hand. Thanks again.
TA, PH and FC need 20 mins with good circulation.
CH and Salt need a day.
CYA (powder) can take a few days to fully mix.
CH and Salt need a day.
CYA (powder) can take a few days to fully mix.
Having trouble with the CH test. Followed the instructions, but the solution never turned red (the drops were red but they turned clear). Added 20lbs of Calcium about 23 hours ago. Is it too soon?
TA = 70
CYA = ~30
PH = 7.5
FC = not added yet
TA = 70
CYA = ~30
PH = 7.5
FC = not added yet
Last edited:
We had a member the other day with a bad tip on one of the bottles. Swap them around/ clean them and see if that changes anything. You should be reading at least a good chunk of the addition by now. Do you have a speed stir ? It really helps the accuracy and is the best $35 you can spend on the pool. Plus it makes it all that much easier.
Also, the entire accuracy of the tests hinges on your ability to make perfect repeatable drops and there is alot of room for error. We all have 47 other things on our mind and have fallen victim to an errant squirter at times. Maybe not this time, but any time something seems screwy, slow it down and try it again.
The bottles go completely inverted and only the gentle-est of squeeze to allow gravity to make those perfect, repeatable drops.
Also also, you want FC in there ASAP. Thats always going to be your most important parameter and we have plenty of time to figure out the others. Minimum sounds OK, but it's a one way ticket to a swamp.
The bottles go completely inverted and only the gentle-est of squeeze to allow gravity to make those perfect, repeatable drops.
Also also, you want FC in there ASAP. Thats always going to be your most important parameter and we have plenty of time to figure out the others. Minimum sounds OK, but it's a one way ticket to a swamp.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,460
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Calcium Hardness
A drop-based test that measures the hardness in your water. Once measured, it is used … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com
The solution should never be clear.
These instructions are similar, but the amounts are different than the TF-100 Test Kit I have. Which instructions should I follow?Calcium Hardness
A drop-based test that measures the hardness in your water. Once measured, it is used … Read more…
The solution should never be clear.
- Fill the sample tube with pool water to the 10 ml mark. [My kit says 25ml] The top of the sample will be curved. This curve is called a meniscus. The bottom of the meniscus should be level with the 10 ml mark.
- Add 10 drops of R-0010 and swirl to mix.
- Add 3 drops of R-0011L [my kit says 5 drops] and swirl to mix. The solution should turn red, pink, or blue. If the sample turns blue, you are done and your CH level is zero.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,460
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40