levels are off the charts

Oct 31, 2014
Hi, newbie here but have read thru pool school several times, using a new TF100 kit and have gotten the following results. Pool has been up and running for 3 weeks since opening of 12x22 fiberglass in ground, enclosed covered pool heated to 89 degrees with inside temp at 79. Salt pool with SWG.

TA:300 possibly as I stopped adding drops at 30 with no more color change and it stayed yellow
CYA:filled tube and never received a cloudy marker, clear as day, tested this twice

Using Taylor K1000 test kit
pH:8.2 but could be a bit higher
CL:eek:range so off the color scheme of yellow)
Salt level per the system states its 3300 ppm.

SWG system has been at 0% for 10 days now. Pentair pump running 20 hrs per day (going to reduce to 12), Pentair clean/clear Plus SWG, Hayward turbocell, Pentair master temp, desert air dehumid systems.

With levels all crazy like this, Im not sure how to start correcting this and get everything into balance. Any help from you masters would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,

chem geek

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 28, 2007
San Rafael, CA USA
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

Wow that's quite a high chlorine level and at that level it will react with the dye in the pH test giving it a potentially falsely high purple reading, but at any rate your FC is way too high. The SWG was set too high for an enclosed covered pool. When you say "enclosed" does that mean that even if you remove the pool cover that the pool is not exposed to any sunlight? If your pool does get any sun exposure when uncovered, then that's the easiest way to get the chlorine level to drop quickly, especially with a CYA level of 0.

Also, just to be sure, when you wrote 45 did you mean that many drops or did you multiply the number of drops by 0.5 if you used a 10 ml water sample or by 0.2 if you used a 25 ml water sample? With the OTO test being orange and not red, I think you may have more like 22 ppm FC, not 45.

If you can't expose the pool water to sunlight, then you can get a chlorine neutralizer to lower the chlorine level. You can either get that from your local pool store (usually it's sodium thiosulfate or similar product) or you can use 27% hydrogen peroxide which you can get here for $17 per gallon. You would need 2.3 fluid ounces of this strength of hydrogen peroxide to lower the FC by 1 ppm in 10,000 gallons. You didn't give the size of your pool, but if it has an average 4.5 foot pool depth (3' shallow, 6' deep) then this is about 8900 gallons so to lower the FC by 40 ppm then that would need 40*(8900/10000) = 35.6 fluid ounces or about 4-1/2 cups (just over a quart).

You should consider having a small amount of CYA in the pool otherwise the active chlorine level will be too strong. Probably 20 or 30 ppm CYA is enough given it's an enclosed and covered pool. You'd then try and keep a 2 or 3 ppm FC level using the SWG.
Oct 31, 2014
Hi - the pool room has a full roof with windows on 3 sides so it gets indirect light when uncovered but never direct sun exposure. The FC was a 10ml water sample x 0.5. The number surprised me too when looking a the chart; hence why I knew I needed guidance. I was able to procur some chlorine reducer from the local pool store and will post new test numbers after prescribing the pool its medicine tomorrow night.

Sure hope its swim worthy as we have been in the water - new suit colors in the end, but water has been nice.


TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 7, 2011
Midland TX
I'll only add that the yellow in the TA test is caused by FC. The reagent R-0007 is Sodium Thiosulfate and it's purpose is to remove the interference of FC which gives that yellow color. At High FC like this three or four drops instead of two may do the job.

Most importantly, the FC is simply too high, and I would not swim in it again until the FC is in line with your Cya level.
Oct 31, 2014
Good morning. Testes done 10 days ago were still wacky and I have added yet another bottle of chlorine reducer. My levels are at least within range now:
FC 13, CC 0.5 making Total chlorine 13.5. PPM 175, total alk 140, CYA 0, pH 7.5, chlorine 5-7, bromine 10-12. I know the CYA is low, total alk high. My SWG has been off for 6 weeks now. There are now white floaties and dime sized white things laying on the pool floor. Expert guidance needed ASAP please. Family coming in for the holidays and hope to say "Pools Open."
Thank you!!!!!!!


LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
May 22, 2013
Hudson, WI
It's a lot easier to read the results if you list them vertically like your first post.

Please post some photos of the floaties and pool floor.

The chlorine should drop on it's own so in most cases a chlorine reducer isn't needed.
Your pool is chlorine so you don't need to report Bromine.
If you FC is 13 then your "chlorine" should be the same. Are you saying you have 13 ppm with the 10ml sample and 5-7 with the block that does chlorine (bromine) and acid only ??

Are you planning to add some CYA ??


Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
Sebring, Florida
With a CYA of 0 (this needs to be corrected to around CYA = 20 ppm) your FC is still too high. Get the CYA in your pool NOW....don't wait.

Don't know what the white floaties are but get them out of the pool and take a pic.....maybe we can identify.

You are performing tests that are irrelevant. indicating you are testing but don't know what you are testing for or why or how to adjust. I suggest you read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.

1. Get CYA in your pool.......20 ppm......now!

2. Net out or pick up the floaties and get them out of your pool. Post some pics of them.

3. disregard your TA.....you can deal with it later

4. Using muriatic acid, lower your pH down to 7.2 - 7.4.

5. When the above is completed, perform the five weekly tests on the back of the laminated card plus the pH test in the k-1000. Format them like this

pH - x.x
FC - x.x ppm
CC - x.x ppm
CH - XXX ppm
CYA - x ppm