Let the build begin!!!

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Starting the build for my 6X8 L shaped bbq island. I'm using 20g studs 2 1/2 inch. Hardibacker board with stone veneer on sides and granite on top. 38 inch 5 burner grill with propane connect.

Thanks to this forum I will be using Trex on the bottom of my grill and have a question about install. Why do I see that some bbq islands only have Trex footers. They space the Trex out and have gaps with the metal studs exposed. Why not connect the entire stud to the Trex? Also do I need to use hardibacker on the bottom of the island?? Why not just leave it open?

Looking forward to posting pics of my build.

Cheers
 

Riles_J

Well-known member
May 8, 2007
218
Nashville, TN
I will take a stab.

Trex footers are cheaper for one, but it also allows for water to move through instead of pooling. I didn't use trex, but some Ipe I had left over from my deck. I do not notice that you can see little gaps down there unless I was really straining to find them.

I would put hardi on top, even with the granite. The hardi is what gives the structure of metal studs stability. Maybe the hardi on the sides is enough, but I would think you would want something on the top in lieu of just adhering your granite directly to metail studs.

Riles
 

rodog123

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2013
311
Pearland, TX
Are you using a pre fab frame (i.e. BBQ coach?) or purchasing metal studs from home depot? post pics... pleeeez

I'm considering buying a pre fab frame from BBQ coach.

What about cement board for the top and sides?
 

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Riles... I am putting hardibacker on the top of the island. I was talking about on the bottom of the island. I think it will just add more strength to the island.

Rod... I looked at bbq coach, but I thought I could build my own for cheaper. I know everyone says the 25g from big box store is strong enough, but I decided to go with 20 g that I bought at specialty shop. Probably overkill but I worry about drunk dancing on the top.

I'm going to start my build with the bottom frame, then attach the hardi to the bottom of that, then finally the Trex to the bottom of the hardi. So from the bottom up will be Trex then hardi then metal studs.
 

Dchambers25

Active member
Nov 17, 2013
34
Sacramento ca
I am also in the process of building an island. I went with 20g also. I got them from a drywall supply house that sold them for cheaper than the big box stores sold the 25g.

Guys put hardi on the bottom because it keeps out critters, and creates a nice interior floor for the island. You might want to run trex under any access areas if you decide to sheet the bottom.
 

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Dchamber... thanks for the info. I saw your build and it looks great. I noticed you used the parma instead of hardi and was wondering why? I also saw your trex on the bottom spaced out. I was thinking of laying it aroung the peremiter of the entire grill. Wasnt sure about leaving gaps between the trex.
 

Dchambers25

Active member
Nov 17, 2013
34
Sacramento ca
Dchamber... thanks for the info. I saw your build and it looks great. I noticed you used the parma instead of hardi and was wondering why? I also saw your trex on the bottom spaced out. I was thinking of laying it aroung the peremiter of the entire grill. Wasnt sure about leaving gaps between the trex.
Thanx!

I used Perma because Hardi isn't rated for exterior use, and 8' sheets were readily available at the homedepot near me. I know that Permabase and Wonderboard are rated or exterior use. Most guys use Hardi because to many it is easier to cut. I have used cement board extensively in the past and they all cut about the same to me. Even though Hardi isn't rated for exterior use, I don't think you would have any issues with it, provided you do some type of waterproofing. That is key to whatever cement board substrate you use. People get 'waterproof' and 'water resistant' mixed up. The boards are water resistant, not waterproof, and I have seen on more than one occasion cement board fail due to excessive moisture exposure.

I spaced out the trex because my patio slopes toward the bbq island, and I wanted water to run underneath and out the back of the island. I put trex under each stud, and I stick framed the structure to ensure level. Takes a little longer, but its dead on level now
 

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Made some changes by going with 3 5/8" studs and changing size to 7x10. Next I will be adding the wrap around bar that is 45" high and has a 12 " overhang. Any comments or questions are welcomed.

I have a natural gas connection, anyone know how many vents I should use? Thinking 2 vents on the end would be ok.
image.jpg


 

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Finished installing electrical. 3 outlets. For fridge, rotisserie, and installing LED light string under overhang. I also decided on a foot rest to wrap around. Then on to hardiboard.

 

nugimon

Active member
Apr 23, 2011
38
Looks nice so far, keep up the good work, I would recommend using at least 3 vents 2 close to the gas stub and one on the far side. Mount them high because gas is lighter than air. This will help reduce gas build up in case of a leak to help dissipate the gasses better and to keep from accidental explosions. :D. I have 5 vents in my build but then again you can't see the vents being it's on the neighboring fence so aesthetics will have to come in to play in your build.

Vents come in all shapes and sized so you can get a few that will do the job and look nice as well. If your worried about too may vents, you can put in one or two vents with a fan to help constantly move air out. Example. an array of low powered low noise computer fans

https://www.google.com/search?q=fan...w=1269&bih=946#q=venting+fan+cabinet&tbm=isch
 

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Looks nice so far, keep up the good work, I would recommend using at least 3 vents 2 close to the gas stub and one on the far side. Mount them high because gas is lighter than air. This will help reduce gas build up in case of a leak to help dissipate the gasses better and to keep from accidental explosions. :D. I have 5 vents in my build but then again you can't see the vents being it's on the neighboring fence so aesthetics will have to come in to play in your build.

Vents come in all shapes and sized so you can get a few that will do the job and look nice as well. If your worried about too may vents, you can put in one or two vents with a fan to help constantly move air out. Example. an array of low powered low noise computer fans

https://www.google.com/search?q=fan...w=1269&bih=946#q=venting+fan+cabinet&tbm=isch
Great idea with the computer fans for venting, but to avoid having to hook them up to electric, I'm going to install 2 vents on the end next to grill and one inside the fridge compartment at other end of grill.

Going to use hardibacker and veneer stone. Does anyone know if I need to use a water barrier like red gard???
 

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Finished the Backerboard this weekend!!! Next up is the concrete countertops and veneer stone on the sides. I'm thinking of using red gard for water barrier, but not sure if I really need it???


 

RiffeShooter

Platinum Supporter
Jun 20, 2014
133
Lake Jackson, Texas
Looks great! I had a quick question for you or anyone else… Our pool is being built now and before the decks went in I ran electrical, water, etc. to a future kitchen area that I want to build myself. I noticed you built this over time (like I want to do) so my question is, is it ok to have the metal studs out in the weather for long periods of time? Will it rust them? I do live about 6-8 miles from the coast so we do have salt air I would think.

Or, should I build sections in my garage and not put them outside until I am ready to cover? I really prefer to build on the spot but it will take several months. I was planning on buying pieces here and there to spread out the expenses… I'm doing a U-shape and it will probably be 8'x10'x8'.

Another question would be, did you build this in sections in garage and then move it out to its final resting place? I take it that it is no big deal to attach the sections together? Thanks!
 

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Looks great! I had a quick question for you or anyone else… Our pool is being built now and before the decks went in I ran electrical, water, etc. to a future kitchen area that I want to build myself. I noticed you built this over time (like I want to do) so my question is, is it ok to have the metal studs out in the weather for long periods of time? Will it rust them? I do live about 6-8 miles from the coast so we do have salt air I would think.

Or, should I build sections in my garage and not put them outside until I am ready to cover? I really prefer to build on the spot but it will take several months. I was planning on buying pieces here and there to spread out the expenses… I'm doing a U-shape and it will probably be 8'x10'x8'.

Another question would be, did you build this in sections in garage and then move it out to its final resting place? I take it that it is no big deal to attach the sections together? Thanks!
I built my frame in the garage because I have a swamp cooler in it and I wanted to stay out of the sun. I then moved it outside because it would of been to heavy to move after I put on the Trex and hardibacker. I heard it can take years outside in the weather to rust. A few months should be ok.
 

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Questions:
- What did you decide on about the water barrier?

-Did you consider DurRock (not sure if this is a new product or not)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DUROCK-Next-Gen-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Cement-Board-172968/202328849

- When you applied the Trex board to the bottom did you apply on the inside of the fram or on the outside of the frame?

Thanks build is looking good!
I think I'm going to use red gard for water barrier, but I'm worried the veneer stone mortar won't stick well on the red gard. So not sure yet.

Durock was an option I thought about but was told the hardibacker is the same thing and easier to cut.

The Trex was installed every few feet to allow water to go under the island.
 

Dchambers25

Active member
Nov 17, 2013
34
Sacramento ca
I think I'm going to use red gard for water barrier, but I'm worried the veneer stone mortar won't stick well on the red gard. So not sure yet.

Durock was an option I thought about but was told the hardibacker is the same thing and easier to cut.

The Trex was installed every few feet to allow water to go under the island.
I was also worried about the stone not sticking to the redguard. So I went to lowes and got veneer stone mortar. Most stone manufacturers have a specific mix to adhere the stone, like mixing thin set with s type mortar. But the veneer stone mortar is already premixed and supposedly creates a stronger bond. It's only a few bucks more per bag than an s type mortar.

The other thing I learned is from an old mason. When installing stone you are supposed to wet the back of the stone in order to combat the stone drawing moisture too fast out of the mortar mix. But if you take a cup, add a little mortar that you have just mixed with water, then water that down even more to the consistency of paint, and use a paintbrush to paint that to the back of the stone before you apply the mortar, then that creates an even stronger bond. I had no trouble with my stone adhering.

David
 

Orogrande

Active member
Mar 19, 2014
33
Ca
Thanks Dchamber. Do you think you really need the red gard? I'm thinking of not even using it.
When I got my stacked veneer stone, they told me that I need to mix the veneer mortar with regular S type mortar, because the veneer mortar is too strong. Didn't know why you wouldn't want the strongest mortar? Is there such a thing as too stong??