Leslie's "Perfect Weekly" and Jacks Magic Metal Sequestering Agent

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holdup1time

holdup1time

Well-known member
Jun 15, 2019
77
Houston Texas
Hello all,

I'm a new pool owner of about 1 week. Plaster pool with some blue flakes in it. 17,000 gallon pool.
My question is about using Jacks Magic Metal Sequestering Agent as a preventative measure in addition to using Leslie's "Perfect Weekly"
I read on here that you should not use a clarifier at same time as a metal sequestering agent. Don't understand why though.
Leslie's sales person told me that the Perfect Weekly is an algaecide, clarifier, and phosphate remover.
My metals content results has been 0 both times this week.
However, I've read even 0.1ppm of metals can cause staining to plaster.
I wanted to use the Jacks Magic Metal biz once a week as a preventative measure in case some metals get in from filling my pool when water level gets low.
But, if the Perfect Weekly is a clarifier, and I'm not supposed to use a metal sequestering agent with a clarifier, then....???? Shouldn't use the metal agent?
Guess what I want to know is does anyone think the Perfect weekly is what is classified here as a clarifier?
Also, what is the reasoning why it says to not use a clarifier with a metal agent? What negative effect would that produce?
107049


A metal agent was placed in my pool during initial filling of pool. So far, I have not put anymore in...pool been running for 1 week now. I did put the Leslie's Perfect Weekly in 5 days ago.
My samples have all been in good range...so far, have not had any problems and pool/plaster looks great.

Thanks for any suggestions/facts/info
 
Clarifiers use charged metallic ions to bind with particles in the pool. Sequestrants bind up metals. Do you see how that might interfere?

If you have fresh plaster and are concerned about stains, then definitely use Jack's magic sequestrant as a safety precaution. But do not waste your money on Leslie's perfect weekly.

Have you purchased a quality test kit? (K2006C or TF-100)?

Do you have a plan to monitor your CYA and stop using your trichlor tablet feeder eventually once it gets too high?
 
Hello Justin..thanks for reply
I have the Taylor 2006 test kit..not sure if is 2006C or not.
I test my CYA daily so far and it has ranged from 48 to 62.
Not sure about not using the triclor...I'm very knew to this and trying to learn...I know the trichlor adds a little cya to my pool...i need to do more reading on here about using bleach instead.
 
No need to test CYA daily. And the numbers are logarithmic... 48 = 50 and 62=70. Always round up. Unless these values are from a pool store's electronic tester?

If your CYA is already near 60 or 70 I would suggest switching to bleach immediately.
 
justinc said:
No need to test CYA daily. And the numbers are logarithmic... 48 = 50 and 62=70. Always round up. Unless these values are from a pool store's electronic tester?

If your CYA is already near 60 or 70 I would suggest switching to bleach immediately.
Click to expand...
The cya values are from my test kit...they do match very closely to Leslie's tests...but I've been testing it each day trying to stay on top of things.
So using bleach sanitizes but does not increase CYA? Is that the reason why it's recommend here?
 
You got it. You get chlorine and water and a tiny amount of salt from bleach. No additional CYA. So now that your CYA is pretty much where it needs to be... you need to stop using the pucks because they will keep adding CYA....
 
What startup guide are you following fir the first 28 days if your pool?
 

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holdup1time said:
I was following the National Plaster Council 28 day start up plan. On day 7 right now. Pool was filled, metals agent was added, I added stabilizer once, brushed twice a day and vacuumed every day, testing water everyday...so far so good
Click to expand...

That’s good. Just checking.
 
holdup1time said:
I was following the National Plaster Council 28 day start up plan. On day 7 right now. Pool was filled, metals agent was added, I added stabilizer once, brushed twice a day and vacuumed every day, testing water everyday...so far so good
Click to expand...
Switching to bleach once the CYA is up to where you want it is probably good. If you stop with the trichlor, you will need acid. Trichlor is very acidic, and tends to be slow release, which is why it's great with new plaster. Without it, pH is going to rise a lot.

Anything else, stick strictly to that guide and add nothing besides what they say you should. If there is any problem with the plaster in the future, the contractor will try to weasel out of it. Do not give him the slightest toehold. No snake oils.

And you are a rare blessed man if Leslie's testing matches reality for you. Save the printouts against future warranty disputes.
 
Richard320 said:
Switching to bleach once the CYA is up to where you want it is probably good. If you stop with the trichlor, you will need acid. Trichlor is very acidic, and tends to be slow release, which is why it's great with new plaster. Without it, pH is going to rise a lot.

Anything else, stick strictly to that guide and add nothing besides what they say you should. If there is any problem with the plaster in the future, the contractor will try to weasel out of it. Do not give him the slightest toehold. No snake oils.

And you are a rare blessed man if Leslie's testing matches reality for you. Save the printouts against future warranty disputes.
Click to expand...
So far, my PH has been riding on the high side. Twice it has been at 8 and I added about 30oz if muratic acid and it brought it down to 7.6. This all the while I've had my pump running the entire time and I've reduced my chlorinator setting from 5 down to 2.5...5 is highest setting...so if I switch to bleach, seems like I'm going to fighting a high PH a lot.
I need to find the articles here on how to use bleach instead of trichlor.
Just thinking off the top of my head that adding bleach...would be a daily manual operation of pouring in the bleach?
 
holdup1time said:
So far, my PH has been riding on the high side. Twice it has been at 8 and I added about 30oz if muratic acid and it brought it down to 7.6. This all the while I've had my pump running the entire time and I've reduced my chlorinator setting from 5 down to 2.5...5 is highest setting...so if I switch to bleach, seems like I'm going to fighting a high PH a lot.
I need to find the articles here on how to use bleach instead of trichlor.
Just thinking off the top of my head that adding bleach...would be a daily manual operation of pouring in the bleach?
Click to expand...
Yep. It's not hard. Just wear old clothes and go dump a bunch into the return stream so it dilutes and disperses. Or don't wear old clothes and make some out of new clothes, like I did! I don't even bother measuring it. I can eyeball it close enough.
 
Richard320 said:
Yep. It's not hard. Just wear old clothes and go dump a bunch into the return stream so it dilutes and disperses. Or don't wear old clothes and make some out of new clothes, like I did! I don't even bother measuring it. I can eyeball it close enough.
Click to expand...
Thanks Richard. This is my first day on the website ...could you direct me to the write ups on how to use bleach? Is there a way to know how much bleach to add for a 17,000 gallon pool? I'm digging around the site and can't find what I need....again, first day on site so probably operator error :)
 
holdup1time said:
Thanks Richard. This is my first day on the website ...could you direct me to the write ups on how to use bleach? Is there a way to know how much bleach to add for a 17,000 gallon pool? I'm digging around the site and can't find what I need....again, first day on site so probably operator error :)
Click to expand...
PoolMath

Input your pool volume up top.
Scroll down to the bottom row of the table and select plaster/bleach/TFP from dropdown menu.

Then just plug in your readings and your target and let it crunch numbers. You'll just need to input the bleach strength. The minimum is just that -- the minimum the FC should be before you add again. The target is a number that will ensure you don't lose so much that you dip below minimum. You'll have to find out your specific number by testing for a week or two

For the other goals, if you're in the suggested range, make the target the suggested range and no chemicals are needed. You don't need to micromanage and target some specific number that you yourself picked more-or-less blindly. Any questions, just post test results and ask.
 
Richard320 said:
PoolMath

Input your pool volume up top.
Scroll down to the bottom row of the table and select plaster/bleach/TFP from dropdown menu.

Then just plug in your readings and your target and let it crunch numbers. You'll just need to input the bleach strength. The minimum is just that -- the minimum the FC should be before you add again. The target is a number that will ensure you don't lose so much that you dip below minimum. You'll have to find out your specific number by testing for a week or two

For the other goals, if you're in the suggested range, make the target the suggested range and no chemicals are needed. You don't need to micromanage and target some specific number that you yourself picked more-or-less blindly. Any questions, just post test results and ask.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thanks!!!!!
 

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