Left My Turn Key Pool for a New One...Lost! Pentiar Intelli-Touch and More...

[pepper958]

Happy Memorial Day Weekend all. Thanks to this forum, pool care has recently been a breeze. I can't thank this community enough for the knowledge it has provided and the headaches it has alleviated...until now. I recently moved to a new house and with the move, inherited a pool that currently has me upside down. I knew the old equipment like the back of my hand and but am really struggling to understand this new stuff and get it up to speed. Hoping TFP can help sort out this one.

The current setup looks like:
- 20,000gal (estimated) Pool with a Small (unknown gal) Carved-In Spa
- System 3 Filtration Modular Media Filter
- Pentair Intelliflo 2 VST Pump
- Pentair Rainbow Model 320 Chlorine/Bromine Inline Feeder
- Pentair Propane Heater
- (2) CVA-24 Valve Actuators (?)
- Pentair Intelli-Touch Controller

The biggest issue (right now) is that the Intelli-Touch control unit was ripped out from the wall during interior renovation. I am trying to first understand how this can be remedied. My initial goal was to open the pool and operate it from the filter area/pump directly to get it clean, but that is proving to be difficult and I am thinking I am stuck until I can get past this. Bottom line, I cannot find any way to control the pump or filter. Aside from the limited display and buttons (start/stop) on the pump, there is nothing. The controls here also look limited (namely Settings and Time) and there seems to be different "Programs" (1, 2, and 3 on the LCD display) for RPM rates. These look to potentially be set with some kind of timer as the pool has a mind of its own. After pushing Start/Stop to stop the pool at night, it is running again in the morning.

At first, I thought it would be best to get a new/refurbished control panel and reinstall as I am certain the wires are still living behind the wall. I then began looking into Pentair offerings and see that the Intelli-Touch system has been discontinued and Pentair offers an Intelli-Center Pool Control upgrade kit. I also reached out to a local dealer who quoted me an astronomical amount to install a brand new Intelli-Center, filter, and a slew of other things which is of course not preferred and I don't believe required. Is it worth trying to revive the Intelli-Touch system or is the upgrade to the Intelli-Center the smartest way forward? And is this the only way to control the system?

I also have endless questions regarding the filter (where on earth is the equivalent of a multiport switch), in-line chlorinator, and valve actuators, but need to figure out how to get control of this thing back first.

If anyone can help me figure this out or provide insight on this setup it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

What type of pool control system did you have at your prior house?

Open up the IntelliTouch panel by the equipment and post pics of what you have.

You should be able to control your pool equipment from the Outdoor Control Panel inside the cabinet by the equipment.

Also show us what the situation is with your indoor controls.

 

[pepper958]

Welcome to TFP.

What type of pool control system did you have at your prior house?

Open up the IntelliTouch panel by the equipment and post pics of what you have.

You should be able to control your pool equipment from the Outdoor Control Panel inside the cabinet by the equipment.

Also show us what the situation is with your indoor controls.

Thank you. I had a Hayward sand filter with a multiport switch. No heater, autochlor etc.. It was simple and well enjoyed. This setup has me over my head.

Attaching photos of the panel. The indoor controls are currently nonexistent...the wall mounted control panel was removed during renovations and never put back. I am certain that any wires still exist behind the wall but the control panel itself is long gone, unfortunately.

 

[ajw22]

If you still have the wall mounted control panel show us a picture of what you have.

@ogdento what can be done here to control the system? I thought there would be a control panel on the outdoor board.

 

[Jimrahbe]

958,

You have to have either a Pentair remote or ScreenLogic to control the IntelliTouch. It has no display

What did you do with the old wired remote?

If you still have it, it should be simple to wire it up, even if not inside your house..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ogdento]

@pepper958, welcome! If your Intellitouch is working I wouldn't bother upgrading - actually, even if it's not working I'd probably fix it before I upgraded, but that's just me. I inherited a broken, circa 2004 intellitouch with our house, and it hasn't failed me since I repaired it (~8 years ago). Bummer that they tossed the indoor panel - they're becoming unobtainium but I've got a couple of used/tested units with the latest firmware, pm me if you're interested. You might look at ebay/fb marketplace etc too for used ones... just make sure it's got fw 1190 or you won't be able to set the year past 2020 (I guess pentair didn't think their systems would still be going in 2024!)

@ajw22 the intellitouch is an oddity in that it had no display on the outdoor panel, unlike the intellicenter and easytouch... but you can use the buttons on the outdoor panel if you put it in service mode first. FWIW, the intellitouch indoor panel is a lot better and easier to use than the Easytouch, but not as nice as the Intellicenter. Of course Jim's screenlogic recommendation is even easier, but I like that the intellitouch indoor panel backs up my programming (screenlogic won't do that)

 

[Dirk]

Disclaimer: I just learned everything I know both IntelliTouch (IT) by reading this thread (I have an EasyTouch)! That said... had I just moved into your house, this is what I would do:

I would not buy an IT new, it is dead tech. But I would fix it before I would replace it with a new IntelliCenter. After you get it going, there's not much you can do with IntelliCenter that you can't do with an IT.

You'll appreciate having ScreenLogic (SL). That is a good first step. You'll be able to control your pool from any computer or device, including your phone while you're away from home.

Unlike some here, I find great value in my EasyTouch indoor control panel. I love having both the control panel and ScreenLogic, I would not give up either. If you wear your phone 24/7, then you might not value the control panel as much as I do. I rarely have my phone on me at home, and really like having the EasyTouch controls right there on my wall, inside, next to my thermostat and home automation control panel.

So replace/restore your IT indoor control panel as a second step (or control panel first, ScreenLogic second).

Then with the money you just saved, have a Pentair Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWG) installed, which will make your pool care a breeze, and you'll be able to run it from IT or SL. While installing the SWG, you could rip out the Inline Feeder. Tabs are the devil and will make pool chemistry maintenance a nightmare. The SWG is all you'll need.

That all said... @Jimrahbe, can't he disconnect his pump from the IntelliTouch and run it stand-alone (or just put the IntelliTouch into service mode)? That way, he can control his pump until he sorts out his IntelliTouch.

 

[Jimrahbe]

That all said... @Jimrahbe, can't he disconnect his pump from the IntelliTouch and run it stand-alone (or just put the IntelliTouch into service mode)? That way, he can control his pump until he sorts out his IntelliTouch.

Dirk,

Yes he can...

That is exactly what a Service Tech would do.

While I agree with all your comments on Pentair Remotes and ScreenLogic.. It is basically cheaper ($1,000) to upgrade to the new IntelliCenter, if you are a DIY kind of guy.

If the OP can find the old wired remote, that is what I would suggest be the first choice to use, even if just temporarily.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[pepper958]

@ajw22 @Jimrahbe we moved a wall where the control panel apparently was and it was never hooked back up. I don't have the control panel and it is likely that it was thrown out (I know...) during demo.

@ogdento thank you. I am going to PM you regarding the control panel.

@Dirk thank you for your insight. I certainly plan on going with an SWG. Next up! Once I can get control of this thing...

@Jimrahbe I am going to try and get a control panel and get it hooked up to whatever wires used to be there. Hoping this will allow me to control the pool. I wouldn't have an issue with using a control panel vs phone to control the pool, so I don't see any real benefit to the Intellicenter unless I am missing something in my research.

For what its worth, I put the panel into Service mode and played with the pump this morning. It went through its Prime cycle but as soon as it held pressure and kicked to Program 1, it looked to have lost all pressure and there was no water visible in the pump window. There is an orange flapper valve (?) above the pump that I noticed was open but then closed when this happened. While looking around at this the pump threw a F90059 Alarm (Over Current). In Service mode the pump should just run continuously, right? If so, I now need to try and understand why the pump lost water flow after the prime was complete. Perhaps one of the CVA-24 actuated valves shut? Though I dont know why...

 

[Jimrahbe]

In the Service mode the automation does not control the pump at all. Do not push the "F" button on the automation!!!

You have two orange valves on the pump input.. I assume one is for the skimmer and the other for the main drain, or more likely a vac line.

Try closing them one at a time and see what the pump does when you try to run it.

Let us know what happens.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[pepper958]

In the Service mode the automation does not control the pump at all. Do not push the "F" button on the automation!!!

You have two orange valves on the pump input.. I assume one is for the skimmer and the other for the main drain, or more likely a vac line.

Try closing them one at a time and see what the pump does when you try to run it.

Let us know what happens.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I didn’t push the “F” button on the IT control panel, just the system control button to flip it into Service mode. I’ll rerun and watch this. Should the “F” light be lit?

There are 2 skimmers at the pool so is it possible that each valve would operate one? I will try closing each and see what happens.

Im also lost at where the options are for this filter. For example backwashing or waste used to be on my Hayward multiport valve.

 

[Dirk]

While I agree with all your comments on Pentair Remotes and ScreenLogic.. It is basically cheaper ($1,000) to upgrade to the new IntelliCenter, if you are a DIY kind of guy.

Only $1000? Yes, ScreenLogic and a new remote would cost more than that, unless a pool contractor is involved and then the cost could skyrocket.

@pepper958, I forgot to mention: @ogdento has worked on my motherboard (I mailed it to him), and I purchased my indoor control panel from him. I've only ever met him here on the forum, but he's a most-trusted resource in my book.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Should the “F” light be lit?

No.. I was just double checking, as the automation should not have any control over the pump in the Service mode.. This means the pump must have some internal programs running???

That is a large cartridge filter.. It does not get backwashed. You have to open it, take the cartridges out, wash them off, and reinstall them.. Should be a once a year, kind of thing..

If you have two skimmers then there is a 50/50 chance that there is one orange valve for each skimmer.. Try running them one at a time and see what happens.. If the pump runs ok on one pipe, then go to each skimmer and see if you have suction.. this will tell you which valve is for which skimmer.

Unfortunately, some pool builders would plumb one skimmer into the other skimmer...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[pepper958]

So if I close one of the orange valves, the water flow stops entirely. And if I close the other, nothing seems to change at the pump.

I do think that each orange valve operates a skimmer and unfortunately think that only one is drawing suction. In troubleshooting with both open, one skimmer is fine but the other has no suction. I removed the basket and stuck my hand down the pipe and found the attached what looks to be gravel. I’ve never seen this before but am thinking perhaps the line was plugged or blocked intentionally? Is this any inclination that something was used to “stop” a skimmer? Any idea what this could be?

I am also seeing that the pump isn’t priming all the way (I think), though it’s enough to get it off of “Priming” and onto “Program 1” at 2,750rpm and 900-1100 watts (sound correct?). The skimmer basket never gets full with water to the top of the viewing window, and 2 jets have ever so slight air bubbles. I am attaching a photo of the valve right before the pump to show the air bubbles (couldn't capture the pump water level in a photo). The clear viewing window on the same style valve is clear with no bubbles after the filter. The air purge valve on the filter also has air sputtering out of it before water does and the longer I wait in between checking the more air is there. I think this leads to a suction side issue now.

Really appreciate all the help with this. I am in way, way over my head but am eager to figure this out. Thanks again to all.

 

[ajw22]

I think the gravel may just be the skimmer has not been cleaned in a long time. I would try and Shopvac it out.

This check valve looks like it has dirt on the inside. I would open the 8 screws and look at the valve internals.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Pepper,

When you look under the skimmer basket, how many holes do you see???

I assume two.. If that is true, then the holes farthest from the water should be connected to the pump.

Depending on how things are plumbed, the 2nd hole may be plugged.. It could have a plug that you can see from the top, or it could be plugged from the bottom. When plugged at the bottom, the hole tends to fill with "junk".. I like Allen's idea to use a shop vac and see if you can suck all the junk out of the pipe.. Then confirm that the pipe is, or is not plugged under the skimmer.

Let's see if Poolman can answer the following question... @1poolman1

'When an old pool had two skimmers, did they ever connect one skimmer into the other skimmer?? If so how did they do it??"

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[pepper958]

@ajw22 tomorrows endeavor! I will do that and report back.

@Jimrahbe when I felt around I only felt 1 hole, but I will double check tomorrow AM. With regards to Shopvac'ing out...pardon my lack of knowledge, but just go right into it and vacuum up through the water?

Currently trying to SLAM the pool as well and prevent any additional growth. I can't see the bottom so not sure what is lurking in there. Hoping to get this back on track ASAP. FC is quickly converted to CC so I think there is a long road ahead.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Pepper,

With the shop vac off, stick the end of the hose over the pipe in the bottom of the skimmer with all the junk in it. Then turn on the shop for a few seconds and see what happens..

I assume you know that when using a shop vac to suck up water, you take any filter element out first..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[pepper958]

@Jimrahbe so I woke up this morning to a clearer (well, maybe 1 shade more “blue” from the swamp it was) pool thanks to SLAM and was able to actually see to the bottom of the problem skimmer. Turns out there are in fact 2 holes. The closest to the skimmer mouth is the one that’s filled with gravel and the rear one is unobstructed. I opened the orange valve at the filter and voila it started pulling ever so slightly. Nowhere near the suction of the other skimmer, but it is working. What perplexes me is that the other skimmer has a cap on the second hole but for some odd reason this one doesn’t. I didn’t follow through with the Shopvac as this seems to be good now.

I gave the pool a quick brush and skim this morning before I ran out and the water is looking better. Using the TF test kit, it looks like the pool held ~11 FC overnight and there were no CC levels to report. Quite happy with this though I’m confused at how I could have CC off the charts last night and a total reversal this morning. Hopefully it isn’t a testing error.

I also traced a small air leak to the top/bottom attachment point on the DE filter. Came out this morning to remnants of a water drops on the concrete pad under one of the fasteners and saw an ever so slight unseated lip where it connects. I am going to the pool store today to get a new pressure gauge, a new pump lid as this one seems it is probably about shot, and hopefully something to coat the o rings with. When I get home, disassembly of the DE and the check valve to clean out that nasty grass and dirt. Thinking this should address the small priming issue. Will update.

@ogdento has been kind enough to help me with the control panel so that part should (hopefully) be addressed soon. Until then, she’s running on service mode. Still need to figure out how to operate the spa though as there is no skimmer there. How does this water get filtered? Just through the pool?

Thanks again to all for the help with this. I am so happy I found this forum and really appreciate all of the help.

(If you want a laugh, the pool store said the only fix here was to shell out $14,600 and swap to a sand filter, new pump, and install intellicenter).

 

[Jimrahbe]

Pepper,

The spa only gets fresh water from the pool.. Your spa should be spilling over into your pool.. Does it???

Good for Tom..

Thanks,

Jim R.