Leaking skimmer and return

DeckPoolPro

Member
Nov 1, 2022
5
Southeast USA
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
I’ve been reading here for 2 years while building my own pool. My dad praised this community as it enabled him to revive his own pool. You’ve been my trusted resource!

I’ve learned a lot, but am stuck on 2 issues that I can’t seem to fix through reading this site or asking pool pros around me.

There is a return (light) and 2 skimmers that have slow drip leaks. Outside view below:

0574DA29-A014-4279-A5AA-EE294727B270.jpeg

I tightened all the screws front and back. Return is super tight - can’t turn it anymore. I purchased stainless wood screws from Lowe’s, but I think I should try a different screw as the current screws do continue to turn in the plywood.

I am considering draining below skimmer, removing back and applying silicone to the back flange that touches the plywood. However, I fear this could 1) mess up the liner and 2) keep water touching wood which could rot and potentially be unnoticed until too late.

D4510012-3415-4F75-AD4C-F133120D2BA3.jpeg
1B64F314-7E2B-4F9A-8EBA-62D4FA2490DA.jpeg

Do you have any other ideas I can try next?
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: I tend to agree that the best way to address this may be by lowering the water so you can remove the parts to clean and validate a good seal. Messing with the skimmer and gasket can come with its own risks though because once you remove the screws the liner could try to slip. Not sure about the use of silicone on teh backside since I would hope a good skimmer install with the butterfly gasket and such would keep everything dry on teh backside. Maybe @Mdragger88 has a different approach? How long has the skimmer been installed?
 
New gaskets for all is a necessity if they are removed since they have been compressed.
You could do this in steps to prevent the liner from shifting. Lower the water just below the skimmer & do it 1st then lower past the return.
Not sure if a butterfly gasket would work for the skimmer considering the thickness of the plywood. You may be stuck with a gasket on each side. I am concerned that the bolt/screw ends are facing towards the pool/liner. Since You have an above ground pool with inground skimmer & returns all the penetrations should be done like an inground with the nice exception that you are able to access them more easily. Using silicone is a last ditch effort & if you only silicone the backside of the skimmer it will just hide the leak from the outside & allow it to still go between the liner & the wall.
Let’s call @jimmythegreek & see what he thinks about the bolt direction I mentioned as well as the order for the placement of the gaskets.
I have to ask - do you have pics of this build? A plywood above ground pool is unusual & I am curious about how it is all supported.
Also can you link the skimmer model you used?
 
thank you!
Liner Install was 10 days ago.

Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: I tend to agree that the best way to address this may be by lowering the water so you can remove the parts to clean and validate a good seal. Messing with the skimmer and gasket can come with its own risks though because once you remove the screws the liner could try to slip. Not sure about the use of silicone on teh backside since I would hope a good skimmer install with the butterfly gasket and such would keep everything dry on teh backside. Maybe @Mdragger88 has a different approach? How long has the skimmer been installed?
 
New gaskets for all is a necessity if they are removed since they have been compressed.
You could do this in steps to prevent the liner from shifting. Lower the water just below the skimmer & do it 1st then lower past the return.
Not sure if a butterfly gasket would work for the skimmer considering the thickness of the plywood. You may be stuck with a gasket on each side. I am concerned that the bolt/screw ends are facing towards the pool/liner. Since You have an above ground pool with inground skimmer & returns all the penetrations should be done like an inground with the nice exception that you are able to access them more easily. Using silicone is a last ditch effort & if you only silicone the backside of the skimmer it will just hide the leak from the outside & allow it to still go between the liner & the wall.
Let’s call @jimmythegreek & see what he thinks about the bolt direction I mentioned as well as the order for the placement of the gaskets.
I have to ask - do you have pics of this build? A plywood above ground pool is unusual & I am curious about how it is all supported.
Also can you link the skimmer model you used?
Thanks!
The skimmers are: Hayward SP1084 Auto-Skim In-Ground Pool Skimmer, Square
The Returns are: SP1408

This specific skimmer had install instructions for wood wall pools. Here is a picture of it pre-liner:
IMG_1468.jpeg
IMG_1470.jpeg
Do you think I need new skimmer gaskets? There is not a gasket for the backside.
 
There should be two gaskets sandwiching the liner.
One siliconed or taped to the skimmer assembly (silicone here helps ensure a watertight seal) then goes the liner then goes the next gasket then goes the face plate. The faceplate screws into the skimmer plastic & squeezes the two gaskets & the liner together forming a seal- the wall is not in the equation. The skimmer assembly itself is attached to the wall for support. In most applications the screws/bolts that hold it to wall are put in from the inside of the pool pointing out. The Hayward instructions don’t specify which direction clearly in my opinion but protruding bolts or screws poking a liner are a bad idea.
I could be mistaken but I don’t see any other way.
On an above ground pool the butterfly gasket goes over the wall too but that isn’t possible with the wood.
Here’s a good video showing the gasket placements for return & skimmer
The info is right at the beginning & then also at the 15 minute mark
 
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