Leak in a bad place I think

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william13

Gold Supporter
Oct 1, 2022
764
south florida
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Just finished a bunch of projects on my pool
1) added Jandy valve between pump and filter
2) moved the flow switch
3) ascorbic acid treated pool
4) added an iphone app by Mark that controls the control board.
5) investigating cause of my dim pentair intellibright lights.

I was happy with all I did and all I learned from the members of this forum but 2 issues this morning appeared and I want to get them out of the way fast so I can enjoy my pools.

1) the pentair pump which is variable speed and is controlled by a Hayward Prologic lost its settings (probably from keeping it off x 4 days during ascorbic acid) and has 0 RPM when the controller turns it on but I can manually bring it to proper RPM

2) Where the PVC inserts into the top of pump there is a small leak. Nothing spraying just a wet surface. I know this needs to be fixed before it blows or something but it occurs to me that unless I do it with expertise I could crack the pump rim. Is this something I should tackle myself and if so very specific ideas would be welcomed? I was thinking of cutting the pipe and using a heat gun to remove old glue and pieces but I really don't know.

I wish it had a union connecting the pcv to pump and that is how I would like to go. Is there a name brand coupling that would be better than others?


addendum: is this what I need? https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-410028-IntelliFlo3-Variable-Models/dp/B0CNKTYXS7
 

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That’s not the correct part. You need something like this:


That leak is a section of 2” PVC (threaded nipple) that if you could measure really well then cut and replace with a union without touching any of the other PVC. You could even add a union on the suction side too.

The pumps have straight threads whereas pipe fittings uses tapered NPT threads. NPT needs thread sealant and it looks like yours is just dried up or missing in the leak area.

This is assuming the leak is from the threads and not the actual body of the pump discharge.
 
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Is that slip (solvent/glue) connected? If so, I would just turn the pump off, dry it thoroughly, and put PVC cement in the connection groove and let it dry for a couple hours or so before turning it back on. I have stopped leaks like that before with that method.
 
bdavis466 said:
That’s not the correct part. You need something like this:


That leak is a section of 2” PVC (threaded nipple) that if you could measure really well then cut and replace with a union without touching any of the other PVC. You could even add a union on the suction side too.

The pumps have straight threads whereas pipe fittings uses tapered NPT threads. NPT needs thread sealant and it looks like yours is just dried up or missing in the leak area.

This is assuming the leak is from the threads and not the actual body of the pump discharge.
Click to expand...
I am trying to understand the vocabulary bear with me. Where the PVC attaches to the pump outlet, is that threaded? If so might glue have also been used by previous installer? Can one remove that piece without ruining threads? What is a "straight thread" vs "tapered NPT thread"? What technique would I use to detach pump from pvc?
PoolGate said:
Is that slip (solvent/glue) connected? If so, I would just turn the pump off, dry it thoroughly, and put PVC cement in the connection groove and let it dry for a couple hours or so before turning it back on. I have stopped leaks like that before with with that method.
Click to expand...
I do not know if it is slip solvent glue connected but I am kind of worried if it was and what effect it had on the pump threads.
 
william13 said:
Where the PVC attaches to the pump outlet, is that threaded?
Click to expand...
Yes.
william13 said:
If so might glue have also been used by previous installer?
Click to expand...
No.
william13 said:
Can one remove that piece without ruining threads?
Click to expand...
Yes.

Cut the pipes and unscrew from suction and discharge and install 2" high temp unions.

21063-200-000200-9062" MIP; 2" Socket

www.c-m-p.com

High Temp Self-Sealing Union - CMP

www.c-m-p.com www.c-m-p.com


1714317409311.png


High-Temp Union - CMP

www.c-m-p.com www.c-m-p.com

21063-290-0002" MIP; 2" Socket Tail


1714317477017.png


UNION, 2" MPT x 2" SLIP, HIGH TEMP (200-906)​


Custom Molded Products UNION, 2" MPT x 2" SLIP, HIGH TEMP (200-906) - INYOPools.com

"UNION, 2"" MPT x 2"" SLIP, HIGH TEMP" (200-906) - Pool & Spa Parts
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

Praher UNION, 2" MPT x 2" SLIP LONG SWEEP ELL, HIGH TEMP (200-996) - INYOPools.com

"UNION, 2"" MPT x 2"" SLIP LONG SWEEP ELL, HIGH TEMP" (200-996) - Pool & Spa Parts
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

Custom Molded Products CMP 2" MPT, 2" Socket Union, Single - 21063-200-000 - INYOPools.com

CMP 2" MPT, 2" Socket Union - 21063-200-000
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
 
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If I have to disconnect the pvc with threaded end and add a union and if I consider putting a union on other end then maybe I should change the orientation of the pump if I have the room. Would like opinions on following please.
What if I tried to orient the pump in question like the other pump ie facing the Jandy valve. The pump appears to be 22 inches.
I have 26 inches between the edge of that valve and my house. Moving the pump would get rid of the 90 degree pvc just before the pump. The back of pump would hang 2 inches off the pad. Not sure if this is worth it but if I add 2 unions I might as well consider.
 

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JamesW said:
Yes.

No.

Yes.

Cut the pipes and unscrew from suction and discharge and install 2" high temp unions.

21063-200-000200-9062" MIP; 2" Socket

www.c-m-p.com

High Temp Self-Sealing Union - CMP

www.c-m-p.com www.c-m-p.com


View attachment 568370


High-Temp Union - CMP

www.c-m-p.com www.c-m-p.com

21063-290-0002" MIP; 2" Socket Tail


View attachment 568371


UNION, 2" MPT x 2" SLIP, HIGH TEMP (200-906)​


Custom Molded Products UNION, 2" MPT x 2" SLIP, HIGH TEMP (200-906) - INYOPools.com

"UNION, 2"" MPT x 2"" SLIP, HIGH TEMP" (200-906) - Pool & Spa Parts
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

Praher UNION, 2" MPT x 2" SLIP LONG SWEEP ELL, HIGH TEMP (200-996) - INYOPools.com

"UNION, 2"" MPT x 2"" SLIP LONG SWEEP ELL, HIGH TEMP" (200-996) - Pool & Spa Parts
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

Custom Molded Products CMP 2" MPT, 2" Socket Union, Single - 21063-200-000 - INYOPools.com

CMP 2" MPT, 2" Socket Union - 21063-200-000
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
Click to expand...
TY for the clarification. There are a few different parts here. I just need the top one right?
 

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JamesW said:
I would use the sweep 90 unions and a sweep 90 for the discharge to make the full 180.
Click to expand...
Understood and like. Thank you. Is there any fluid mechanic reason to add any pvc height to this plan or can I just go with two sweeps and connect with pvc at a lower height. Also just taking votes on changing full orientation of the pump (see comment # 6 above). I would do if it made a difference functionally and if it would fit and not be harder to service .

Just saw your other message, you are proposing 3 similar pieces to turn the corner.
 

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Regarding the sweep for the inflow, do they align precisely like the 90 degrees do as I try to connect to the Valve.
Regarding the fit. I have a 22 inch long pump and a 26 inch space between valve and house but I don't know what type of affect adding usions would have on my space limitations.
 
With the union, the pump will probably start at about the red line, so it has to fit from there to the wall and you need about 3" from the back of the pump to the wall for airflow.

1714319834024.png
1714319678373.png
 
JamesW said:
I would use the sweep 90 unions and a sweep 90 for the discharge to make the full 180.

View attachment 568397

View attachment 568390
View attachment 568391
View attachment 568386



View attachment 568388


Custom Molded Products CMP 2" MPT, 2" Socket - 90 Deg. ELL - 21063-290-000 - INYOPools.com

CMP 2" MPT, 2" Socket - 90 Deg. ELL - 21063-290-000
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
Click to expand...
Looks like I will need 2 inch slip and spigot for each side then use slip and slip to connect.
 
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Regarding the intake side of things. If I add union to intake and use a sweep is it likely that this will align with the valve or will I need to be adding some pipe with couplings or is this a question that is answered on the field. The reason I ask is that I will be removing (I think) that threaded pvc from the equation and it seems longer that the union I will replace it with.
 
The union will thread into the pump about 1.25" up to the red line.

The pipe will go into the union about 1.25" to the blue line and there will be about 1.25" between the front of the pump and the pipe.

If the union touches the valve, then you have about 2.5" between the pump and the valve plus 22" for the pump, which is 24.5" and that leaves about 1.5" to the wall.

Also, the union nut might not fit under the valve actuator.

You need about 1" of clearance from the actuator to the pipe.


1714320518451.png


1714320940704.png
 
A sweep union on the front and a sweep union on the discharge with a sweep 90 to make the horizontal to downward turn.

If the pump moves forward some, the discharge does not need to be perpendicular to the pump; it can be at an oblique angle (either acute or obtuse).

Note: Make sure to get pressure rated sweep 90s and not DWV.

You can use a regular 90 instead of a sweep 90 if that is easier to find.
 
This might be a crack forming.

If it is, it might keep leaking and there is not a lot that can be done.

Maybe use a strong sealant to install the union to help seal the leak.

1714321996573.png
 

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