Last year my pool was awesome...this year I’m struggling: HELP!

[Shoogle]

Second summer owning a pool, last year she was a dream: shocked using 1 lb of sams club quick dissolving shock stabilizer, and one puck of sams club 3 inch tablets in my Hayward chlorine feeder. Only ever tested free chlorine and ph, and numbers were always spot on.

This year I’m ready to fill in my pool with dirt! About 3 weeks ago, I noticed my FC was never higher than like 2 ppm, even after my weekly bag of shock, so I started shocking with two bags and using 2 tabs in my chlorine feeder. Then we got 5 inches of rain. So I shocked it MORE...and MORE...and MORE...anyway, by now I’m sure you’re aware, my CYA was at about 150 ppm. I started reading on “why chlorine won’t go higher than 1-2 ppm” I found these forums and quietly whimpered about having to drain off so much water and refill.

Test results as of Friday evening:
FC:1
CC:1
PH:7
TA:70
CYA:150

So I drained/refilled this weekend, a little more than 1/3rd of the water, gone and replaced readings post refill after running the filter to redistribute everything for a bit:
FC:1
CC:0.5
PH:7.5
TA:100
CYA:90

CYA still high, but we backwash weekly, so it will come down as long as I eliminate CYA from my pools diet, right?

So at the point above I say: water is clear, cc is .5 or less, I’ll just use bleach to bring chlorine up to the recommended level of FC for 90 CYA: added 4 jugs of 6% bleach (484 oz. a bit more than the pool math app called for) at 2:30 pm (cloudy outside). Decided not to SLAM.

By 3 pm results were as follows:
FC:10
CC:0
PH:7.5

again, not sunny outside 7pm readings:
FC:2
CC:0

is that kind of decrease in FC ppm on a cloudy day typical?

So I say: maybe I should SLAM. I added 8 more jugs of bleach (968 oz.) @ 7:30 pm and tested again now that the sun is completely gone:
FC:>10
CC:0 (no change in color)
PH:7.8

But here are my current struggles. I don’t have the good chlorine test, I ordered one and it should be here in a few days: what should I do from now until my FAS DPD test gets here and I can accurately get my FC to 35 and keep it there until it passes the overnight 1 ppm loss test?

Any other thoughts based on my long winded post? I bought 12 jugs of bleach hoping to not have to buy a ton more, but to SLAM and maintain 35 ppm seems like it may be harder than I thought. Also, how do I maintain if I’m gone 10 hours/ day at work? Or can I bring the FC >35 so that it doesn’t dip below that while I can’t monitor.

So many questions. I’m just feeling a bit overwhelmed. Any help or advice would be soooo appreciated!

Thanks!

 

[DHoover85]

First things first, welcome.

Next your question about:
CYA still high, but we backwash weekly, so it will come down as long as I eliminate CYA from my pools diet, right?

the answer is yes, but be aware it will do so very slowly (and you will have to avoid any of the solid forms of chlorine). I would do another drain and refill cycle, hopefully getting down into the 40-60 ppm range. (hopefully someone who is a little more local to you can help you dial in on how much CYA is appropriate for your area.) But for right now you will need approximately 4 gallons (of 6% bleach) a day to maintain your FC so your pool doesn't turn green while you wait for your test kit to come in.

Once your kit comes in, post a full set of test results, and I'm sure you'll have this cleared up in short order. Also if you haven't already, may I suggest a read through Pool School.

 

[Shoogle]

Thanks for the response! I can handle 4 jugs each evening until my kit comes in. I’ve read a ton this weekend, including pool school, I think I’m in information overload at this point, ha! I’m working on taking everything I’ve read and connecting the dots for my pool. Now to convince my husband that it’s safe to swim in anything@ or below shock level based on the CYA chart...he’s convinced he’ll melt in anything over 10 ppm, and with our CYA levels we will be >10 ppm for a bit until I can find time to drain/refill a little more. I’ll maintain using 4 gallons of 6% each evening and post my progress later this week. Thanks again!

 

[Shoogle]

First things first, welcome.

Next your question about:
CYA still high, but we backwash weekly, so it will come down as long as I eliminate CYA from my pools diet, right?

the answer is yes, but be aware it will do so very slowly (and you will have to avoid any of the solid forms of chlorine). I would do another drain and refill cycle, hopefully getting down into the 40-60 ppm range. (hopefully someone who is a little more local to you can help you dial in on how much CYA is appropriate for your area.) But for right now you will need approximately 4 gallons (of 6% bleach) a day to maintain your FC so your pool doesn't turn green while you wait for your test kit to come in.

Once your kit comes in, post a full set of test results, and I'm sure you'll have this cleared up in short order. Also if you haven't already, may I suggest a read through Pool School.

I tested again this morning with my basic chlorine tester - and it was down to 1-2 ppm of FC: so something is definitely using up that FC.

Quick question - if I were to use the walmart pool essentials 128 oz that is 10% sodium hypochlorite, would 2 be enough to keep the algae away until my FAS DPD test gets in and I can start the SLAM process?

Thanks again!

 

[mknauss]

Are you using PoolMath to determine how much chlorine to add or just guessing?

You can get away with 2 gallon of 10% if you are just guessing.

 

[Shoogle]

Are you using PoolMath to determine how much chlorine to add or just guessing?

You can get away with 2 gallon of 10% if you are just guessing.

Unfortunately for now I'm just guessing. Once I get my FAS DPD test in, I will start the SLAM process so that I can maintain the chlorine levels @ 35 ppm based on my CYA being at 90.

I've got a grab bag of tests that give me the basics - a 6 way hth kit that I've bought extra r-0013 for to do the CYA tests, I'm also using the hth kit for total hardness. I'm using a Taylor K-1004 kit to test FC/TC/CC (for now), PH, and TA. I've ordered a Taylor K-1515-A to get accurate readings on chlorine. I'm trying to get away with using up my grab bag of tests this year and plan to buy the TF100 next year!

I know the solution starts with more accurate chlorine readings, but at this point my pool is still clear - so I'd prefer to keep it functioning as clearly as possible until I can accurately get it up to those required SLAM levels of 35 ppm. So between now and test kit arrival time, I need to know how much 10% to dump in nightly to prevent whatever my pool has going on from overtaking things, and also I need to get a decent estimate of how many gallons of the 10% I will need to maintain the 35 ppms for the time required, and then once I pass the 1 ppm overnight test, I'm can use the pool math app to let the FC dip down to the 7-12 ppm range recommended. Does that seem like a decent plan? I'm also not sure what is dropping my FC so substantially - used 8 jugs of 6% last night after the sun went down, my basic chlorine test put my levels (red color match) at higher than the highest reading, and this morning the levels were between 1-2 ppm...so something has to be growing in my pool, right? I cant with any certainty say how high my FC levels got last night, but 8 jugs (121 oz) of 6% should've gotten it pretty far up according to pool math. So for it to drop down to 2 ppm this morning, I'm worried I'm missing something.

I don't have much experience, so maybe I'm overthinking, but how many days is typical for maintaining the SLAM levels when things "look" good (clear water, 0 ppm CC?) How many gallons of 10% should expect to use each evening (I'm sure it is based on loss, but based on your experience do you have a rough estimate?), and with (I'm guessing) a huge loss in FC overnight last night, I'm nervous that my invisible organic matter will destroy my life before I ever pass the overnight loss of 1 ppm test!

 

[mknauss]

Ever situation is unique. I would suspect it will take a week or so before you get to the cloudy blue stage. Then, as you have a sand filter, it can take days to weeks to completely clear. This all depends on how much time and effort you are willing to devote to it. More time, the quicker it will go.

Amount of 10%, probably between 20 and 50 gallons.

 

[Shoogle]

Ever situation is unique. I would suspect it will take a week or so before you get to the cloudy blue stage. Then, as you have a sand filter, it can take days to weeks to completely clear. This all depends on how much time and effort you are willing to devote to it. More time, the quicker it will go.

Amount of 10%, probably between 20 and 50 gallons.

So you say "cloudy blue stage", does that mean my pool will look worse before it gets better? Time devoted: I work all day, so I'd say that I can run the pump 24/7, I should be able to test hourly and adjust during the evening, but from 7 am-5 pm, the pool and the chlorine will be on its own. I plan to do the overnight loss test around 9-10 pm and around 6 am.

I'm hoping for 20 gallons *fingers crossed*, I've already gotten strange looks when I bought 12 jugs of 6% bleach. I'd imagine that 20 or so of the 10% liquid chlorine jugs might turn heads, ha!
I'm crossing my fingers for 20 gallons!

 

[mknauss]

As far as how the pool will look, I do not know what it looks like now. Is it a dark green swamp? Or just some light algae?

With the schedule you show it will take a very long time. There is no one that can add any chlorine to the pool during the day?

 

[Shoogle]

As far as how the pool will look, I do not know what it looks like now. Is it a dark green swamp? Or just some light algae?

With the schedule you show it will take a very long time. There is no one that can add any chlorine to the pool during the day?

The pool is clear now, no signs of algae other than the fact that my FC is reducing pretty rapidly. In fact, my process started because I was being proactive: nothing slimy, nothing green or miscolored...I just simply noticed that my FC reading were never above 1 or 2, despite shocking like crazy. That is when my research lead to the forums and I realized it was a CYA issue. I drained a bit more than 1/3rd of the pool, refilled, and got my CYA from about 160 ppm to 90 ppm...its still high, but I can't drain anymore until I have the time to do so. I backwash every weekend, so for now I'm hoping to just backwash and refill a little extra each week until I can get my CYA down to 60 or so.

...and no, no one to add chlorine. At least not every day. My husband works shift work, so SOME days I may be able to get him to add some chlorine, but not every day.

 

[mknauss]

Then a hard, intense hit at SLAM level for a couple days may clear it up.

- - - Updated - - -

Be sure you have lots of FAS=DPD reagents. At 35 ppm FC SLAM your testing will consume the reagents quickly.

 

[GeorgiaPoolOwner]

Looking at this thread closely, she appears to be saying the pool looks fine, and it is passing 2 of the 3 end SLAM requirements: the pool looks clear and CC is <.5. She is just losing lots of chlorine (despite a CYA of around 90). She also isn't using an FAS DPD test, which she has ordered.

First, I would say to slow down. You don't really know what you have until you get your FAS-DPD test in. Chlorine loss may not be what you think it is. Sometimes high chlorine will show up as 0 with the dpd (not the FAS-DPD) test. Try the OTO test with the HTH kit to see if it matches TC.

Second, I would wait until you get your FAS-DPD test before freaking out. It may not be as bad as you think.

 

[Shoogle]

Then a hard, intense hit at SLAM level for a couple days may clear it up.

- - - Updated - - -

Be sure you have lots of FAS=DPD reagents. At 35 ppm FC SLAM your testing will consume the reagents quickly.

Thanks for the tip on reagents, I'll order extra today. My husband is off for three days coming up, so maybe between he and I we can get it resolved quickly. How often would you recommend testing and adding more liquid chlorine to maintain the 35 ppm?

 

[mknauss]

Every couple hours to start. It may not be all that bad as the member stated above. But, the more you test and dose, the faster this will clear.

 

[Shoogle]

Thanks a ton. Will start the SLAM process as soon as I can, and hopefully the 2 gallons of 10% nightly will keep it from turning green until then!

 

[Shoogle]

Looking at this thread closely, she appears to be saying the pool looks fine, and it is passing 2 of the 3 end SLAM requirements: the pool looks clear and CC is <.5. She is just losing lots of chlorine (despite a CYA of around 90). She also isn't using an FAS DPD test, which she has ordered.

First, I would say to slow down. You don't really know what you have until you get your FAS-DPD test in. Chlorine loss may not be what you think it is. Sometimes high chlorine will show up as 0 with the dpd (not the FAS-DPD) test. Try the OTO test with the HTH kit to see if it matches TC.

Second, I would wait until you get your FAS-DPD test before freaking out. It may not be as bad as you think.

Thank you! I know my brain has the tendency to move to fast.

I just did the Taylor k-1004 FC/TC/CC test:
FC: 0.5
TC: 0.5
CC: 0
...compared to the hth oto test, which had TC: 0.5. So the tests match.

Honestly, the pool looks amazing (pictures below, surface distortion is from the pump running). Is it possible that chlorine is super high and reading @ 0.5 on both tests?

My FAS-DPD should be in on Thursday, so that should eliminate all the guess work.

I’m just trying to prevent an impending algae bloom in the meantime IF I’m truly losing that much FC.

 

[GeorgiaPoolOwner]

I agree, it looks good (at least now). My understanding is the the OTO tests don't give false lows. Really high chlorine will be either orange or brown.

Are you sure your CYA is 90? Honestly, the only thing I've seen eat chlorine that fast with a high cya is ammonia, but it would leave you with measurable CC's.

Are you using anything other than the sun to oxidize (e.g., running an o-zone system; hydrogen peroxide)?

I would raise it up to 8 or so (something measurable) just before dark. Test around 10pm just before bed and again in the morning just before the sun comes out. See if you are losing chlorine overnight. If you meet all three SLAM finishing criteria (clear water, .5 or less CC, and overnight chlorine loss of less than 1 ppm), then I don't think a SLAM is the cure.

If you are losing chlorine overnight and not using anything other than the sun to oxidize, that would signify something in the water that requires a SLAM.

 

[Shoogle]

I agree, it looks good (at least now). My understanding is the the OTO tests don't give false lows. Really high chlorine will be either orange or brown.

Are you sure your CYA is 90? Honestly, the only thing I've seen eat chlorine that fast with a high cya is ammonia, but it would leave you with measurable CC's.

Are you using anything other than the sun to oxidize (e.g., running an o-zone system; hydrogen peroxide)?

I would raise it up to 8 or so (something measurable) just before dark. Test around 10pm just before bed and again in the morning just before the sun comes out. See if you are losing chlorine overnight. If you meet all three SLAM finishing criteria (clear water, .5 or less CC, and overnight chlorine loss of less than 1 ppm), then I don't think a SLAM is the cure.

If you are losing chlorine overnight and not using anything other than the sun to oxidize, that would signify something in the water that requires a SLAM.

I just retested my CYA using the ‘outside, back to sun’ recommendations posted in the forums, and it’s definitely 90 ppm.

Oxidation question: nothing other than the sun, no ozone/hydrogen peroxide. All that’s gone in my pool since this weekend is 6% bleach. Using 10% chlorinating liquid tonight.

Also tested FC again and I was still at 0.5, so according to pool math to get things up to 8 I can add 2 jugs of 10% sodium hypochlorite. I’ll do that this evening around 8:30 pm, test again @ 10 pm before bed, and test again at 6 am to see if I lose FC again. If there is a FC loss, then I’ll need to SLAM as soon as I get my FAS DPD test in. I’ll continue my 2 jug/night maintenance dose until then!

Another question. Here are my most recent test results:
FC: 0.5
PH: 7.5
TA: 110
CH: 170
CYA: 90

My CH is pretty low, when I SLAM, would it kill two birds with one stone to use 73% Cal-Hypo during the slam?

Pool math is showing I’ll need 25 lbs of calcium chloride which the internet is showing costs about $30.

I can order a 50 lb bucket of 73% cal hypo for $110...and that covers both the CH issue & SLAM chlorine levels.

So if I buy $110 worth seperately, that’s $30 for calcium chloride, and I spend about $80 on 10% sodium hypochlorite, I could buy about 22 gallons (1 gal = $3.64 @ Walmart)

Which is more bang for the dollar? 50 lbs of 73% cal hypo, or 25 lbs of calcium chloride and 22 gallons of 10% sodium hypochlorite.

Does the CH matter that much?

Thanks!

 

[GeorgiaPoolOwner]

You do want the CH higher in a plaster pool. Cal Hypo will raise it some. It certainly won't hurt, as long as you are following the recommended chlorine levels. Just don't let it go over 400, which it likely won't with short term use. Not sure if it is cost effective or not.

 

[Shoogle]

Many thanks! It seems that I have a plan for the next few days at least. I’m going to go ahead and order the cal hypo after confirming FC loss tonight...so it’s here if/when its time to SLAM.