Las Vegas Build - It's like butter

Oh salty is your name now!!!! SWEET! That is such a pretty pool!

Have you been in it at all? I wonder if you will feel a difference after the salt?

Kim:kim:


I was in it once prior... but when I did the testing after it dissolved.. the water really felt different, a bit "silky" is how I would describe it...

Oh .. And just so you don't think that I have been lax in reading anything on the site... I have a 55lb bucket of granular Boric Acid from Duda Diesel on its way too.... :cool:
 
Tests tonight after adding salt and aerating most of the day:

FC 3.5
CC .5
TC 4.0
PH 7.7
Temp 71
Salt 3000 ppm
CSI .07

So adding acid... for 7.2...

Installed and turned on IC60... it initially ntermittently flashed low salt, but stopped and is steady green. I would think at the level I am at, that it would be higher than the minimum?

I'm going to increase salt tonight... another 40lbs... according to poolcalc it would take 50 lbs more to get to 3400.. but I have 40 lbs for now.. and will see how that goes...

I'm also setting the level to 20% production until the FC levels out, good idea?
 
Tests tonight after adding salt and aerating most of the day:

FC 3.5
CC .5
TC 4.0
PH 7.7
Temp 71
Salt 3000 ppm
CSI .07

So adding acid... for 7.2...

Installed and turned on IC60... it initially ntermittently flashed low salt, but stopped and is steady green. I would think at the level I am at, that it would be higher than the minimum?

I'm going to increase salt tonight... another 40lbs... according to poolcalc it would take 50 lbs more to get to 3400.. but I have 40 lbs for now.. and will see how that goes...

I'm also setting the level to 20% production until the FC levels out, good idea?

Why add more salt? You are good where you are.


New borate drop test at piscines-apollo vs. test strip - Page 6
 

Its still flashing low salt intermittently. Interestingly, I had to up my pool pump to 1300 RPM to have enough flow... but the low salt still flashes intermittently... Should I ignore it?

I read that previously.. and some others on the test they were getting from Canada too (now can't get).. but it seemed the test strips were accurate enough? I could order the other too.. the test strips were only 10 bucks.


************


So I figured out why the intermittent, when the exit valve (after the SWG) switches to the floor cleaners, the flow must not be as good as the regular returns.. and the low flow flashes, then the low salt flashes. After it turns back to the regular returns, the flow returns and eventually the low salt is green again... interesting.
 
This mornings readings:

FC 4
CC .5
TC 4.5
TA 90-100
PH 7.4
Temp 68
Salt 2960 (25 ml) 3000 (10 ml)
CSI -.28

Adding acid

Brian - I did not add any additional salt yet... But the IC60 says the optimum is 3400 and I am at 3000... (the minimum is 2800), should I not be closer to the 3400?



Also, I put MiLleR in the pool... he was awesome.. all leaves gone pool looks even more amazing.. think I'll leave him in for the winter.. see how the weather goes to determine a schedule.
 
I would get your salt to the optimum per the SWG readout. It will do nothing but come down over time (unless you use bleach over the winter then it may creep up - but very little). Otherwise splashout will lower it over time. Evaporation will have no effect.
 

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Actually, I expect the opposite to happen. Your salt level will rise over time from adding acid. 3,000 is a perfectly fine number for the cell as they have a wide range that they'll operate under. Hold off on the salt and keep an eye on the level to see what it does with time.

My salt level rises by 1,000 ppm per year. I have little splash out, no backwashing, minimal rainfall and use a lot of acid. You may find you are in a similar situation.

One gallon of acid will increase the salt (chloride) concentration in your pool by 40 ppm.
 
I guess my acid additions are less than my splashout regarding salt concentrations. My salt clearly decreases but each pool has their own unique circumstances. Lower is of course the safe option to see how it trends over time.
 
I'm in the same situation as Brian. My salt went up to 6000+ over ~ 4+ years. So that would be ~700+ per year. I'm replacing water soon, and I'm going to target the low end of the range for this reason.

I also get minimal splash-out, and never had overflow due to rain.
 
I would get your salt to the optimum per the SWG readout. It will do nothing but come down over time (unless you use bleach over the winter then it may creep up - but very little). Otherwise splashout will lower it over time. Evaporation will have no effect.

Only the water evaporates... it actually will raise concentration unless the water is replaces (used to design salt water fish tanks).. also been to the Dead Sea and Salt Lake...lol

- - - Updated - - -

Actually, I expect the opposite to happen. Your salt level will rise over time from adding acid. 3,000 is a perfectly fine number for the cell as they have a wide range that they'll operate under. Hold off on the salt and keep an eye on the level to see what it does with time.

My salt level rises by 1,000 ppm per year. I have little splash out, no backwashing, minimal rainfall and use a lot of acid. You may find you are in a similar situation.

One gallon of acid will increase the salt (chloride) concentration in your pool by 40 ppm.


Aha! okay.. will leave it be... I will have similar situation, except the occasional party...
 
This evening..

I aerated for several hours.. then took reading

FC 5
CC .5
TC 5.5
TA 90
PH 7.5
Temp 70
CSI -.19

Adding acid... at this point I think I am safe without adding any CYA.. until the chlorine comes down a bit yes?
 
Good morning!

FC 4.5
CC .5
TC 5
TA 80-90
PH 7.5
Temp 68
CH 375
CYA 22 ish

I put of bag of CYA on the shelf of the skimmer... it is dissolving soooo slowly.. but clearly its dissolving as I have a recognizable amount of CYA in the water now. The CH has risen slightly, and my PH stayed about the same, even though adding acid last night...

Adding acid again to 7.2...

I have the pump running 8 hours a day at 1300 RPM (two hours at a time), which is enough that the low flow light does not come on the IC60. Any lower than 1300 RPM and the low flow and low salt warnings come on. So I think that's where its at. I have the chlorine production at 20% right now..

I am not sure on the GPH I am turning at that RPM.
 

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