Lap Pool Renovation with Aquabright

AquaBright Sahara Sand:
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Driving myself (and a few others) crazy rethinking tile selections. I may also need to mention that I've been recuperating from surgery, which is why I've had time to obsess. [emoji85]

I want a more mid-century feel than I want bling, though I LIKE bling! The iridescence of most of these isn't showing up in the photos. I also feel like we need to incorporate white since we have to keep the lovely white plastic expansion joint thingie. Thoughts?


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So for a mid century feel I would choose the grey tiles I think 3rd down but since you want a Turquoise color the last set of tiles with grey and green will compliment your pool and backyard very well without drawing all the attention to the tile since you don't want to much bling
 
Thank you Tony! You and Brian are so right. I was overreacting, but I didn't want anything to go wrong. Our guy in charge of doing this is our head operations guy and has great attention to detail. He and my husband pretty much rolled their eyes at me over this - but I've seen crazy things happen on job sites when people toss tools around and are careless. We are spending much more to do this little renovation than we originally thought - and I don't want to have to think about changing decking/coping too!

Don't you think the bench and steps at the end are just crying out for tile?? [emoji4]


Hi AmyJo, I am probably not one to ask about glass tile. If I had the means, I would tile my entire pool in glass tile. :-D I think the biggest issue in tiling stairs would be to make sure that it is slip-proof. My experience with 1 x1 mosaics is the grout lines provide enough resistance to minimize the risk of someone slipping.
 
Driving myself (and a few others) crazy rethinking tile selections. I may also need to mention that I've been recuperating from surgery, which is why I've had time to obsess. [emoji85]

I want a more mid-century feel than I want bling, though I LIKE bling! The iridescence of most of these isn't showing up in the photos. I also feel like we need to incorporate white since we have to keep the lovely white plastic expansion joint thingie. Thoughts?


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Hi AmyJo,
Waterline tile color choice really depend on how you want it to play against your water color. Do you want it to blend in or contrast with your water color? I think if you want a mid-century look, then a muted color as Big Will suggested is the way to go. I like the 3rd tile, but it is too colorful for a mid-century look. If you want a little more color than tile 4, I would go with with either tile 5 or 6 and try to match my water color with an appropriate AquaBright finish. I too am agonizing over both pool tile and pool finish choices. I thought it was going to be so much easier than it is. :scratch:
 
That's a good option as well. Around here it's really only been blue lagoon and Mediterranean blue

Hi Brian - I need to order my tile today and would like to get your opinion on this if you don't mind. I really would love to tile the bench/steps at the end - the horizontal and the vertical areas. (See inspiration photo below). Our PB first advised against it, but now says we can use hydraulic cement under it. He then suggested grouting with plaster? Which doesn't make sense to me, especially since we don't want any plaster. Can't we use regular grout? Is this tile idea just a bad idea all the way around? I don't want to do anything that makes our Pool susceptible to leaks or failure. I know people in Europe tile pools so as to not have chemical reactions with their water ... so unsure why it would be a problem? The rest of the surfaces will be AquaBright. I would really like to know your opinion. THANK YOU!
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I am interested in using aquaBRIGHT if I refinish my pool and one of the benefits is that it is much more maintenance free and chemically inert as well as forming a continuous watertight surface. You will lose a lot of those benefits if you tile part of the surface.

Running water features cools pools.

Our solar panels and solar cover do a great job of warming our pool water. Good solar panels are robust and most have 10 year warranties. Mine only had one minor leak the first spring when I restarted the solar. Leaks are pretty obvious both because of water coming off the roof and also the water level dropping in the pool. A quick check each spring should cover it.

SWG should be the same brand if you plan to add pool automation like an easytouch panel. Otherwise it doesn't matter.

Hi pooldv- thank you for your response regarding my tile idea. If waterline tile can be used and grouted with AquaBright - and marker strips used on steps, I don't understand why tiling the bench/steps would be an issue? I'm told that all-tile pools in general are desirable because they are basically chemically inert. So will tiling this bench make that much of a difference? Our PB says if we use hydraulic cement underneath we shouldn't have a problem with waterproofing- but then he suggested grouting with plaster which really threw me, as I would think grout would be better? We have such limited ways to add any personality to this pool, that the idea of this tile is very appealing. Please let me know what you think. I value your opinion. Thank you!
 
Hi Brian - I need to order my tile today and would like to get your opinion on this if you don't mind. I really would love to tile the bench/steps at the end - the horizontal and the vertical areas. (See inspiration photo below). Our PB first advised against it, but now says we can use hydraulic cement under it. He then suggested grouting with plaster? Which doesn't make sense to me, especially since we don't want any plaster. Can't we use regular grout? Is this tile idea just a bad idea all the way around? I don't want to do anything that makes our Pool susceptible to leaks or failure. I know people in Europe tile pools so as to not have chemical reactions with their water ... so unsure why it would be a problem? The rest of the surfaces will be AquaBright. I would really like to know your opinion. THANK YOU!
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You can't use AquaBright on the grout joints because they are just too narrow and would be a nightmare to mask the tile off. Typically when tile is installed the joints are filled with the pool plaster as it is being applied to the rest of the pool. You can use any grout of your choosing but I would recommend using an epoxy grout from Laticrete. In fact I would recommend using their waterproofer and thinset as well.

All tile pools are not completely inert since there is still a good deal of cementious material exposed to the water; it's just far less than what a traditional plaster pool would have.
 
You can't use AquaBright on the grout joints because they are just too narrow and would be a nightmare to mask the tile off. Typically when tile is installed the joints are filled with the pool plaster as it is being applied to the rest of the pool. You can use any grout of your choosing but I would recommend using an epoxy grout from Laticrete. In fact I would recommend using their waterproofer and thinset as well.

All tile pools are not completely inert since there is still a good deal of cementious material exposed to the water; it's just far less than what a traditional plaster pool would have.

Thank you. So is this a good idea to tile the bench/steps - or would you advise against it? I realize that AB would not work as grout. What do most tile installers use on tile when working with an AB finish?
 

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Adding tile to existing plaster certainly isn't the norm. On remodels where the existing plaster is going to be coated, most opt for a different color of AquaBright to be used in place of marker tile. I've never added tile but I've removed plenty of it and patched with plaster.

I use pool plaster on the new pools that have marker tile but epoxy grout is a far better option.

There is nothing wrong with you wanting a tiled section of your pool. I do not care for the feel of a tiled pool but that is my personal opinion. So long as it's installed correctly it should be just as trouble free as the rest of the pool.
 
I know AB is different, but I know our accent tile is beung grouted with plaster bc it blends in with the actual pool. If you use say grey grout it can look like there is dirt or mold or whatever in the grout in that area. So I would pick a grout that is very close in color to your AB even if that means the waterline tile has a different color grout. We are using Laticrete for waterproofing, thin set, and grout as well and are using slate blue grout for the water line and raised wall but plaster on the accent tiles on steps and benches. They have a lot of color options so you should be able to find a color that will blend with the AB. I would err on lighter color than dark to avoid it looking dirty.
 
An epoxy grout is better than regular cement based grouts. But, epoxy grout has a learning curve and it is best done by people who are good at it. I agree with Brian that tile pools agreement by no means chemically inert as the grout is a cementicious product, just like plaster is. So, a tile pool should be cared for just as a plaster pool should. We also recommend caring for Aquabright pools with tile and grout the same as a plaster pool. Is it a bad idea? No, definitely not. It just requires more attention to maintaining pH, TA and CH. It isn't more difficult it is just different.
 
The jackhammer is baaaaack. We've decided to tile the bench and steps, so all the plaster has to come off those areas.

Now the quandary is ..... how to transition from the tile above the bench (all in tile) to 6" of waterline? I think it will look ok on the right side (when you look at photo below), but isn't it going to look odd with a small strip of plaster/AquaBright on left side over step? Maybe odd on both sides? I doubt anyone else will really care, but it seems odd. My husband will probably be unhappy if I tried to maintain waterline tile that deep all around the pool ..... [emoji848][emoji15]


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Adding tile to existing plaster certainly isn't the norm. On remodels where the existing plaster is going to be coated, most opt for a different color of AquaBright to be used in place of marker tile. I've never added tile but I've removed plenty of it and patched with plaster.

I use pool plaster on the new pools that have marker tile but epoxy grout is a far better option.

There is nothing wrong with you wanting a tiled section of your pool. I do not care for the feel of a tiled pool but that is my personal opinion. So long as it's installed correctly it should be just as trouble free as the rest of the pool.

I know AB is different, but I know our accent tile is beung grouted with plaster bc it blends in with the actual pool. If you use say grey grout it can look like there is dirt or mold or whatever in the grout in that area. So I would pick a grout that is very close in color to your AB even if that means the waterline tile has a different color grout. We are using Laticrete for waterproofing, thin set, and grout as well and are using slate blue grout for the water line and raised wall but plaster on the accent tiles on steps and benches. They have a lot of color options so you should be able to find a color that will blend with the AB. I would err on lighter color than dark to avoid it looking dirty.

An epoxy grout is better than regular cement based grouts. But, epoxy grout has a learning curve and it is best done by people who are good at it. I agree with Brian that tile pools agreement by no means chemically inert as the grout is a cementicious product, just like plaster is. So, a tile pool should be cared for just as a plaster pool should. We also recommend caring for Aquabright pools with tile and grout the same as a plaster pool. Is it a bad idea? No, definitely not. It just requires more attention to maintaining pH, TA and CH. It isn't more difficult it is just different.

Dear :bdavis466: :shantellylace: and :pooldv: - THANK YOU for responding and offering your advice. I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your experience and expertise! We have decided to tile the bench and steps. I've spoken at length with Oceanside Glasstile's Tech Manager who is a former tile setter and he says if we follow their guidelines we should not have a problem. There are many brands of waterproofing/thinset/grout they recommend including Laticrete, Bostik, etc and also recommend doing all of the materials from one company. When pressed, their preferred brand is Mapei, but say all are good if exact directions are followed. On the tile we are ordering (from their Teserra line), they recommend sanded grout! Apparently sanded grout offers the flexibility to expand and contract, whereas for our climate and tile, expoxy grout can expand, but doesn't contract back. Who knew? Therefore we are going to use all Mapei products for a prolonged prep for the tile - Primary waterproofing, Mortarbed, Secondary waterproofing, Thinset and finally tile and grout. There are recommended curing times for all of these steps - including curing of 21 - 28 days after thinset before the pool can be filled. I have a photo of our exact tile installed where the PB did not pay attention to the curing time, used the wrong thin set plus immediately filled the pool and the tile looks horrible. The clear tile in the blend has turned an ugly shade of tan. I would be so upset! I will find a photo to insert here.

Again - thank you all so much for helping!!
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This is what it's supposed to look like:

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So glad you got it all figured out. I can't comment as to the little strip of AB at the stairs bc I would be questioning it as well and deferring to others as well!

I am with you on making sure products and installation guidelines are followed esp for the glass tile. I printed out the detailed steps involved with the Lightstream ones and made sure every step would be followed and would not be an issue so PB knew exactly what we were getting into. I have checked all bags when they were waterproofing, thin set, and grouting to make sure it was the right stuff. PB said they usually wait until decking is done to place accent tiles but I am like we cannot fill for at min 21 days once all tiles are set and grouted so I told them we have to get the accent tiles placed asap. So those should be going in this coming week.
 
The jackhammer is baaaaack. We've decided to tile the bench and steps, so all the plaster has to come off those areas.

Now the quandary is ..... how to transition from the tile above the bench (all in tile) to 6" of waterline? I think it will look ok on the right side (when you look at photo below), but isn't it going to look odd with a small strip of plaster/AquaBright on left side over step? Maybe odd on both sides? I doubt anyone else will really care, but it seems odd. My husband will probably be unhappy if I tried to maintain waterline tile that deep all around the pool ..... [emoji848][emoji15]


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Hi AmyJo, congratulations on selecting your tile. I think it would look okay either way, but I would tile the right and left sides of the top step/bench. It's not that much more tile compared to making the entire waterline that size.
 
Hi AmyJo, congratulations on selecting your tile. I think it would look okay either way, but I would tile the right and left sides of the top step/bench. It's not that much more tile compared to making the entire waterline that size.

Thanks Tony. But don't you think that will look odd on the sides then merging with a much shorter waterline tile? By the time I figured I shouldn't tile the entire back wall, that plaster had been removed. I think that was probably the best plan, but I obviously didn't think it through ..... [emoji20]
 
Hi AmyJo,

I looked at the photos again and now I realize what you were saying about the left and right sides not extending the same, since the left side extends into the step and the right only extends as far as the bench. So, yes it would look weird tiling the sides, but I think the entire back wall is okay.

If you aren't happy with that, how much do you think your AB guy will charge you to replaster that area before they do your AB, so your waterline tile is the same on that wall?
 

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