Just want to cry ?

You have sum this up accurately.

Could someone ... seriously not thinking this but need to ask~however, I wouldn't put it pass a few of my jealous neighbors. Could someone of sabotage the pool by lets say adding fertilizer or some other chemical to effect the pool like this???
 
Sabotage is unlikely, your problem is that you have way too much stabilizer (CYA) in your water. This is generally from overuse of dichlor (usually a granular powder) and/or trichlor (pucks/tabs put in a floater or inline feeder) as a chlorine source. These products add about the same amount of FC and CYA per dose. The problem is that FC gets used up, but CYA stays in the water and builds up over time. CYA is a chlorine stabilizer and works to protect FC from the sun. You want it in your pool, but as the CYA increases, the FC level needs to increase as well to maintain sanitation of the water. This is a relationship that most pool stores and pool services don't acknowledge. Eventually if CYA continues to build up, it gets so high that the chlorine is no longer effective at sanitizing the water. This is the point where organics start to take over. For many this means recurring algae that doesn't respond well or go completely away with pool store or pool service remedies. In your case it was white water mold that took hold.
 
Yes, the only way to get your CYA down is to exchange more water. This is really your only long term solution. I described above one way you can probably get your pool safe to swim in for the short term until you can drain more water. The good news is that one you get your CYA back in range, if you stick with TFP and follow the methods of pool care taught here, then this problem will never happen to your pool again.

I know that really sucks to hear, I was in a pretty similar spot when I found TFP. My CYA was probably in the 400 range and my pool was green. I was actually able to get my pool back to clear before my test kit showed up in the mail. I then found out how high my CYA was and tested my FC at I think 55! The FAS DPD chlorine test is only accurate to an FC of 50. I then had to let my FC drop to 0 to drain my pool to the street (city requirement where I live). I think that took a few weeks to drift down. So while this is not truely a TFP method, I think doing something similar in your pool would work in the short term to get your water safe until you can drain.

Another thing to note is that the pH test is not valid with FC levels over 10, so make sure to adjust your pH to 7.2 before bringing your FC over 10 since you won't be able to check pH again for a while.
 
Just trying to keep chlorine in the water overnight.... to no avail..?

That does seem like a lot of consumption. Can you give us a full set of test results spaced a few hours apart over the course of a day? I would especially like to see results right before you add chlorine, then again two hours later, again at sunset, and once more at sunrise.
 
>>use a sump pump to drain water from the deep end and simultaneously add water the shallow end with a hose
I can't understand how this would save water. Maybe over several cycles of partial drain and refill, but not over a single partial drain/refill that gets the water chemistry where it needs to be. Any time the new water can mix with the old before the draining is complete would be wasteful.
Is this because the pool shell can't withstand a single partial drain to the level required (probably 50%)?
 
I can't understand how this would save water.
It will not save water. But draining a pool has risks. Plaster can be damaged by drying out in the hot summer sun. Or the pool can pop out of the ground. Liner's can shift. Etc.
 
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